Talk about some messed up stuff
some people seemed confused about the cronological order: Took it to the first shop, Won't tune it and didn't start it. Second shop ran it the day before and was messing around with it and he told them to stop it. the next day is when it blew.
quote: I asked Mike some very specific questions abotu what the plugs looked like and from his answers I didnt' need any PCM info to say they were not only running this motor but were pounding the **** out of it with a very unsafe tune in it. Guys he said he couldn't even SEE the white ceramic anymore on the plugs, they were black..not just speckled, but black... we all know what that means. un-quote
I don't remember all that well but I'm guessing a hydro lock?
quote: I asked Mike some very specific questions abotu what the plugs looked like and from his answers I didnt' need any PCM info to say they were not only running this motor but were pounding the **** out of it with a very unsafe tune in it. Guys he said he couldn't even SEE the white ceramic anymore on the plugs, they were black..not just speckled, but black... we all know what that means. un-quote
I don't remember all that well but I'm guessing a hydro lock?
Last edited by Richiec77; Aug 12, 2004 at 09:08 PM. Reason: need to add quote
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Bad break(pardon the pun!)! The advice given about "watch the knuckledraggers ALL the time" is excellent ; it MAY have been an assembly oversight ( ie, one keeper rather than two on a valve) ... who knows? Too many people stirring the pot?
The advice about "Moving on" probably says it best ... Learn... & do over!
-BT,DT
The advice about "Moving on" probably says it best ... Learn... & do over!
-BT,DT
So what's the news on this. I've been sitting here for half an hour reading all this and I need an update damnit! 
I know this is sensitive stuff cause of a potential lawsuit and all...but come on! This would make a good movie.
Seriously though, sorry about your bad luck. You haven't mentioned anything about your ex since your first post, so at least she's off your mind.
Good luck with everything and PLEASE let all of us know what happens.
I know this is sensitive stuff cause of a potential lawsuit and all...but come on! This would make a good movie.
Seriously though, sorry about your bad luck. You haven't mentioned anything about your ex since your first post, so at least she's off your mind.
Good luck with everything and PLEASE let all of us know what happens.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by 1998redcoupe
Well they didn't start it. That was what was crazy about it. They looked at my mod sheet and got scared? Anyways, talked to Jason at Texas Speed and explained everything. He is a really cool guy talking to me about this. The PtV on the intake was .070 and the exhaust I do not know. Checked the motor and it appears that every intake valve had contact. No exhaust contact. Jason said that sounded weird. Well, the head is trashed and so is the one piston and the block is cracked. The guy that built my motor, my mechanic that put it in, Jason at Texas Speed, and myself all think that this thing was over-rev'd. I will update you later tonight when we decide our course of action.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by -Joseph-
For a race-only engine Intake can be run to .040" at the very min., exhaust minimum .070", thats from several engine builders that build engines that cost more than most of our cars.... You'd be surprised, some LS1 "street" cams have less then that though! 
(not any we sell though) Personally I'd prefer .080" intake .100" exhaust if possible. Clay is not accurate enough to check when you get that tight either, use a solid or shimmed lifter, adj pushrod and a dial indicator. I wouldn't trust clay in any increment below .100" at all.
(not any we sell though) Personally I'd prefer .080" intake .100" exhaust if possible. Clay is not accurate enough to check when you get that tight either, use a solid or shimmed lifter, adj pushrod and a dial indicator. I wouldn't trust clay in any increment below .100" at all. FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by 1998redcoupe
Well they didn't start it. That was what was crazy about it. They looked at my mod sheet and got scared? Anyways, talked to Jason at Texas Speed and explained everything. He is a really cool guy talking to me about this. The PtV on the intake was .070 and the exhaust I do not know. Checked the motor and it appears that every intake valve had contact. No exhaust contact. Jason said that sounded weird. Well, the head is trashed and so is the one piston and the block is cracked. The guy that built my motor, my mechanic that put it in, Jason at Texas Speed, and myself all think that this thing was over-rev'd. I will update you later tonight when we decide our course of action.
1998redcoupe, what was the free drop on those heads and the free drop on the engine with the right gasket torqued down around 10 degrees before or after TDC and at TDC? What was the lobe lift also at this point +/- 10 degrees before/after TDC as degreed in your engine and your rocker ratio? Or did the P to V get checked with a solid setup at the right place with the real springs and a dial indicator? How was P to V actually checked? I see this sort of thing all the time.
As Joseph said quite a few of these bigger popular cams are REALLY CLOSE even with stock heads and in fact some are crazy close and people just don't know usually, especially with milled heads or with bigger valves when still running stock pistons! We've pushed it before with some cams but we know we're playing with fire sometimes and some people are cool with risking that and can handle it if it causes problems.
