382 ls1 suggestions
382 ls1 suggestions Hey all, I recently bought a 99 camaro and got back into the fbody world.
Its got a lunati 382ci stroker kit.
-4 stroker crank.
-pro billet 6.125 rods
lunati-8cc pistons
lunati 242/242/ 595/595 cam
ported 241 heads
ls6 intake
long tubes.
6 speed built trans and 9 rear
Car runs very good. I am just wondering if you guys have any suggestions before I start throwing money out the window on mods! Is the ls6 intake ok for this application or would it be worth it to step up.
I am just trying to make sure this set up isnt being choked up or if there is any thing I should swap out to gain some more HP!
Thanks any input appreciated.
Its got a lunati 382ci stroker kit.
-4 stroker crank.
-pro billet 6.125 rods
lunati-8cc pistons
lunati 242/242/ 595/595 cam
ported 241 heads
ls6 intake
long tubes.
6 speed built trans and 9 rear
Car runs very good. I am just wondering if you guys have any suggestions before I start throwing money out the window on mods! Is the ls6 intake ok for this application or would it be worth it to step up.
I am just trying to make sure this set up isnt being choked up or if there is any thing I should swap out to gain some more HP!
Thanks any input appreciated.
Sounds like a sweet car and a lot of fun!
How many miles on the 382/383 LS1? I would want to' drive it for a little while and see if it's an oil burner or not before mods.
Any track or dyno numbers for the current set up?
The stock 78mm snout LS6 isn't what you want on that engine. A Mamofied Fast 92 or Fast 102 and ported 92 or 102mm throttle body will probably gain quiet a bit of hp with that fat cam.. Bigger at least 85mm MAF or 100mm MAF and bigger lid etc will also help hp with the Fast intakes etc. Plus a new tune to take advantage.
How many miles on the 382/383 LS1? I would want to' drive it for a little while and see if it's an oil burner or not before mods.
Any track or dyno numbers for the current set up?
The stock 78mm snout LS6 isn't what you want on that engine. A Mamofied Fast 92 or Fast 102 and ported 92 or 102mm throttle body will probably gain quiet a bit of hp with that fat cam.. Bigger at least 85mm MAF or 100mm MAF and bigger lid etc will also help hp with the Fast intakes etc. Plus a new tune to take advantage.
Thanks for the reply! It’s got about 65k miles on the car and about 30k on the build.
only track time I saw was a 11.4 I believe, but I assume (not positive) that’s probably with the nitrous kit it also has.
I don’t have any dyno numbers but I would like to bring it to my local tuner and have him dyno and check the tune out.
what should be my projected HP with this build assuming I put a new intake and throttle body?
only track time I saw was a 11.4 I believe, but I assume (not positive) that’s probably with the nitrous kit it also has.
I don’t have any dyno numbers but I would like to bring it to my local tuner and have him dyno and check the tune out.
what should be my projected HP with this build assuming I put a new intake and throttle body?
Like stated above drive it. See what it does, maybe what you have is enough. If you want to really start throwing money into it for gofast purposes, you can do a set of port and polished 243s for better air flow or if you have the funds a set of AFR or TF heads 210 or 215cc runners. Depending on the octane you can get keep them at 64cc chambers or if you can get the good stuff 93oct have them milled to 60-62cc changers to bring that compression up.
To be honest you need to really get a baseline of the car. Then see what direction you want to go with it if you want to keep it NA or if you want a power adder like nitrous or do some type of FI. Now before throwing anything at the engine have it gone through from top to bottom because you don't know exactly where the engine is at.
edit: just saw it nitrous. I'd really have the engine checked out.
To be honest you need to really get a baseline of the car. Then see what direction you want to go with it if you want to keep it NA or if you want a power adder like nitrous or do some type of FI. Now before throwing anything at the engine have it gone through from top to bottom because you don't know exactly where the engine is at.
edit: just saw it nitrous. I'd really have the engine checked out.
Last edited by 02*C5; Oct 27, 2021 at 10:30 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo Sounds like an older back in the day build from around 2000 - 2002 given the head and cam choices. Single patterns were very popular in the early LS days. 420 whp to 435 whp was common back then for that type of stroker. They maybe made 5 whp more than a 346 LS1 cause the intake choked the engine. Most of the cams weren't specifically for the long 4 inch stroke. The strokers made ~40 wtq more
The crutch was a big single pattern cam. Likewise the tuning wasn't as good so hp was left on the table.
Also a lot of older stroker builds tended to use oil and have piston rock issues due to early piston taper design issues. Not saying that is the case with your 382 it's just a reason to drive and see what is the condition of the engine.
My 383 LS1 stroker has TEA LS6 Stage 2.5 heads, a 229/229 .578/.578 lift 114 lsa +2 cam and a 90mm snout LS6 intake manifold. Callies CompStar 4 inck crank & Callies Rods with Wiseco's stroker pistons. Made 465 whp 442 wtq with T56 & Hawk's 8.8 rear end. It's a very mild build. My drives like stock set up leave probably 60 -70+ whp on the table vs a fully optimized set up.
As Mavn said intake, heads, cam tune if motor checks out. I'd add the original LS1 lifters from back in the day weren't as good as the LS7's etc.
I was told by my 383's engine builder ~ 50,000 to 60,000 is good before a typical 4 inch stroker crank LS needs a refresh ie new rings and maybe new pistons due to skirt wear. However it varies,
The crutch was a big single pattern cam. Likewise the tuning wasn't as good so hp was left on the table.Also a lot of older stroker builds tended to use oil and have piston rock issues due to early piston taper design issues. Not saying that is the case with your 382 it's just a reason to drive and see what is the condition of the engine.
My 383 LS1 stroker has TEA LS6 Stage 2.5 heads, a 229/229 .578/.578 lift 114 lsa +2 cam and a 90mm snout LS6 intake manifold. Callies CompStar 4 inck crank & Callies Rods with Wiseco's stroker pistons. Made 465 whp 442 wtq with T56 & Hawk's 8.8 rear end. It's a very mild build. My drives like stock set up leave probably 60 -70+ whp on the table vs a fully optimized set up.
As Mavn said intake, heads, cam tune if motor checks out. I'd add the original LS1 lifters from back in the day weren't as good as the LS7's etc.
I was told by my 383's engine builder ~ 50,000 to 60,000 is good before a typical 4 inch stroker crank LS needs a refresh ie new rings and maybe new pistons due to skirt wear. However it varies,
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Oct 28, 2021 at 05:09 PM.
My opinion - if it's not burning a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, I'd get a Mamo ported Fast 92 & 92mm TB, 85mm MAF, 98mm lid, the couplers, do all the basic maintenance and get a new dyno tune.
Cam Motion has several excellent LS stroker cams for cathedral port heads.
cammotion stroker-ls-camshafts
I'd consider at most something like this Cam Motion Cam if I ever up grade my 383. Cam Motion could help with a specific suggestion for the combo you'd like to run.
Grind # XA242/365-XA246/355-14+3
Aggressive Street Performance
Duration at .050: 242/246
114 Lobe Center Angle with a 111 Intake Centerline
Lift with 1.7 Rocker Arm Ratio: .621"/.604"
Recommended Displacement: 383 & 402-418 Cubic Inch Engines
Cylinder Heads: Cathedral Port
Recommended Compression Ratio: 10.7-11.7:1
Recommended Headers: 1 7/8"
Recommended Stall Converter: 3200-3800
Recommended Rear Axle Ratio: 3.42-4.11
*Compatible with factory intake & high flow aftermarket long runner intake manifolds.
This would be the minimum cam I'd consider.
Grind # XA235/365-XA242/355-14+4
Street Performance
Duration at .050: 235/242
114 Lobe Center Angle with a 110 Intake Centerline
Lift with 1.7 Rocker Arm Ratio: .621"/.604"
Recommended Displacement: 383 & 402-418 Cubic Inch Engines
Cylinder Heads: Cathedral Port
Recommended Compression Ratio: 10.5-11.5:1
Recommended Headers: Stock - 1 7/8"
Recommended Stall Converter: 2800-3600
Recommended Rear Axle Ratio: 3.42-4.11
