2001 z28 build
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
2001 z28 build So, I’ve got a 2001 z28 M6 with 49k miles. Mods so far are:
BTR CAMSHAFT - LS1/LS2 - N/A STAGE 2 32734132
Specs: 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2
PRC Stage 2.5 LS6 CNC Ported Heads 2.02”/1.575” 59cc .660” lift dual spring kit
Bosch 42lb injectors
Monster Twin Disc Clutch
LT headers, OR Y pipe, Magnaflow cat back(looking to change this)
Curious of what kind of power the car makes with this setup. Trying to decide if I should upgrade from the stock ls6 intake and TB. I’m already looking into a GM 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. Thanks.
BTR CAMSHAFT - LS1/LS2 - N/A STAGE 2 32734132
Specs: 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2
PRC Stage 2.5 LS6 CNC Ported Heads 2.02”/1.575” 59cc .660” lift dual spring kit
Bosch 42lb injectors
Monster Twin Disc Clutch
LT headers, OR Y pipe, Magnaflow cat back(looking to change this)
Curious of what kind of power the car makes with this setup. Trying to decide if I should upgrade from the stock ls6 intake and TB. I’m already looking into a GM 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. Thanks.
Not going to happen from a stock bottom end with a small camshaft, small cylinder heads using a stock intake and throttle body. At least not NA anyway and keep in mind that a stock LS3 which is a 376ci engine makes approximately 426 fwhp.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 640
Likes: 297
From: Michigan
I disagree. 400 whp should be a cake walk on the "average" chassis dyno with a 6 speed. Mine made 413 whp with just a cam and stock heads, that dyno is a little bit on the happy side, but not much.
IMO it's worth it to upgrade from the stock LS6 intake to a Fast 92 or 102 and a larger throttle body. Your setup would probably pick up between 15-20 hp.
IMO it's worth it to upgrade from the stock LS6 intake to a Fast 92 or 102 and a larger throttle body. Your setup would probably pick up between 15-20 hp.
Assuming a 15% power loss then you were in the neighborhood of 475 fwhp and that seems realistic for what you have listed in your signature. Of course spinning a stock clutch, an aluminum driveshaft and little old 10 bolt will help tremendously.
Trending Topics
I disagree.
Stock LS6 with same heads, intake and tiny stock camshaft was rated at 400 fwhp (flywheel) from factory.
Ported 59cc heads 243s will give a solid bump in compression.
That said, I’d be concerned for piston to valve clearance.
This is 420whp all day on chassis dyno.
Stock LS6 with same heads, intake and tiny stock camshaft was rated at 400 fwhp (flywheel) from factory.
Ported 59cc heads 243s will give a solid bump in compression.
That said, I’d be concerned for piston to valve clearance.
This is 420whp all day on chassis dyno.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 148
Likes: 29
From: Atlanta, GA
I think 400whp is achievable. To provide another perspective on the intake, plenty of guys (myself included) making north of 450whp on the LS6. You're 2k all in for a lid, TB, and the fast 92 these days. Plus a retune. Is it worth the moderate gains?
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 205
Likes: 70
From: Phoenix AZ
Devil is in the details!!!
Lots of people throwing numbers out.
So let's get some details and info.
First terminology fwhp vs whp, rwhp two different worlds or engine Dyno vs chassis Dyno
Engine Dyno: fwhp
Engine on a Dyno with no accessories, real open exhaust with no restriction - HP equals maximum engine output in a perfect environment.
still subject to temperature and humidity day of Dyno testing.
Chassis Dyno: whp (applies to front wheel and rear wheel drive also AWD)
Engine in car with accessories ie: water pump, alternator, power steering, transmission, driveline, rear end or transaxle, tires, tire pressure and other variables ( but if equipped with K&N filter pleas add 20 HP) not all cars will have all listed accessories.
What matters is the Chassis Dyno those are real world numbers. People have a % loss calculation for engine to chassis Dyno too many variables to be reliable.
Then we have the "happy Dyno" and the Dyno operator.
After you spend $3000 to $5000 or more on your build. you better get the results proimised or the shop is going to get bitched out!!!
Environment makes a big difference - My car was Dyno'ed in December in Phoenix AZ - much cooler air then in July I probably gain 30 to 40 HP in the winter months due to Air intake temperature.
My guess is you will make about 380 rwhp with your setup.
Best bang for the buck would be going to a 3.73 rear gearing.
Lots of people throwing numbers out.
So let's get some details and info.
First terminology fwhp vs whp, rwhp two different worlds or engine Dyno vs chassis Dyno
Engine Dyno: fwhp
Engine on a Dyno with no accessories, real open exhaust with no restriction - HP equals maximum engine output in a perfect environment.
still subject to temperature and humidity day of Dyno testing.
Chassis Dyno: whp (applies to front wheel and rear wheel drive also AWD)
Engine in car with accessories ie: water pump, alternator, power steering, transmission, driveline, rear end or transaxle, tires, tire pressure and other variables ( but if equipped with K&N filter pleas add 20 HP) not all cars will have all listed accessories.
What matters is the Chassis Dyno those are real world numbers. People have a % loss calculation for engine to chassis Dyno too many variables to be reliable.
Then we have the "happy Dyno" and the Dyno operator.
After you spend $3000 to $5000 or more on your build. you better get the results proimised or the shop is going to get bitched out!!!
Environment makes a big difference - My car was Dyno'ed in December in Phoenix AZ - much cooler air then in July I probably gain 30 to 40 HP in the winter months due to Air intake temperature.
My guess is you will make about 380 rwhp with your setup.
Best bang for the buck would be going to a 3.73 rear gearing.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 205
Likes: 70
From: Phoenix AZ
In the end, too many variables, shouldn’t speculate about power output.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
To many people to quote, really just wanted a baseline. Seems those numbers are still all over the place when getting into where it’s being measured. This was meant to be a fun street car, after I finish the build I plan to dyno the car just to see what I have. Unfortunately I don’t have a dyno local to me, so I asked here. Also plan on making a couple of 1/4 mile passes just to see what the car will do. There are no clearance issues. Looks like I’ll be shopping for a 92 intake/tb next.
This is just my opinion but to reach 450+rwhp from a 346 naturally aspirated it's going to need a larger intake, throttle body, fuel injectors, a good set of flowing cylinder heads and an exhaust system. You're working with a 3.898 bore with no mention of stroking but when you start adding all of this to the equation you'll benefit from a larger camshaft that has more duration and lift and I seriously doubt anyone will disagree with this statement. An engine is just an air pump and the more air and fuel you can move the more power it will make.
FWIW - with a mere 224/224 cam & TEA S2 5.3 heads my 99 T/A made 418whp on a DynoJet way back in 2002. Same DynoJet several NASCAR teams used. There was absolutely no question to the credibility of the results.
With more cam and LS6 heads, it's very like the OP's combo will make at least 420whp like Cino mentioned.
My guess is ~430whp.
IMHO - these days the BTR above is a medium sized cam for an LS1. Typically, an LS1's torque curve will start to shift to the right when the intake duration goes above ~227-228 degrees.
To me BIG cams for the LS1 are ones like these famous named cams. Of course a cam doesn't need a fancy name to be a big duration cam.
1) Tick Performance Polluter V1 Classic Camshaft for LS1 & LS6 Engines242/244 | .61x”/.61x” | LSA112
2) TSP Magic Stick (MS4) 238/242 .600/.600
3) Thunder Racing T-ReX v.2 - 242/248 - .608/.612 - 110 lsa
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Dec 29, 2021 at 06:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Cino's paid his dues and is a serious gear head. He knows what he's talking about. It's a friendly civil forum so there's no call for the hyperbole.
FWIW - with a mere 224/224 cam & TEA S2 5.3 heads my 99 T/A made 418whp on a DynoJet way back in 2002. Same DynoJet several NASCAR teams used. There was absolutely no question to the credibility of the results.
With more cam and LS6 heads, it's very like the OP's combo will make at least 420whp like Cino mentioned.
My guess is ~430whp.
It's somewhat subjective, depends on the quality of tuning and personal tolerance. Here my view, others will say otherwise etc.
IMHO - these days the BTR above is a medium sized cam for an LS1. Typically, an LS1's torque curve will start to shift to the right when the intake duration goes above ~227-228 degrees.
To me BIG cams for the LS1 are ones like these famous named cams. Of course a cam doesn't need a fancy name to be a big duration cam.
1) Tick Performance Polluter V1 Classic Camshaft for LS1 & LS6 Engines242/244 | .61x”/.61x” | LSA112
2) TSP Magic Stick (MS4) 238/242 .600/.600
3) Thunder Racing T-ReX v.2 - 242/248 - .608/.612 - 110 lsa
FWIW - with a mere 224/224 cam & TEA S2 5.3 heads my 99 T/A made 418whp on a DynoJet way back in 2002. Same DynoJet several NASCAR teams used. There was absolutely no question to the credibility of the results.
With more cam and LS6 heads, it's very like the OP's combo will make at least 420whp like Cino mentioned.
My guess is ~430whp.
It's somewhat subjective, depends on the quality of tuning and personal tolerance. Here my view, others will say otherwise etc.
IMHO - these days the BTR above is a medium sized cam for an LS1. Typically, an LS1's torque curve will start to shift to the right when the intake duration goes above ~227-228 degrees.
To me BIG cams for the LS1 are ones like these famous named cams. Of course a cam doesn't need a fancy name to be a big duration cam.
1) Tick Performance Polluter V1 Classic Camshaft for LS1 & LS6 Engines242/244 | .61x”/.61x” | LSA112
2) TSP Magic Stick (MS4) 238/242 .600/.600
3) Thunder Racing T-ReX v.2 - 242/248 - .608/.612 - 110 lsa