What happened to this cam?
I've seen my share of high mileage LS engines and have yet to see that kind of wear from a daily driven engine. The engine that cam came out of had sat for an extended period of time and to make matters worse it was ran. High ZDDP oils are in my performance engines and I wouldn't be afraid to use it in a daily driver either.
2. Mobile 1 synthetic oil and again M1, WIX filter
3. Liquid Molly and again a M1, WIX filter.
just my personal opinion 👆🏽
I used a WIX on my Corvette. I did oil changes every 3K yes even with synthetic oil. A 500+ rwhp car daily driven and never an issue.
While the cam journals aren't too bad, the bearings need replacing. Wear and corrosion. They aren't TERRIBLE but they need replacing for sure. That'll be done as soon as I figure out if I can't rent a tool or if I need to buy one.
If that motor had water sitting it, I would pull the caps on a few of the rods and inspect the journals. You may find the crank needs at least a polish. The rod bolts can be reused same with the mains They are torque to angle, not torque to yield.
different procedure or torque values to reuse?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
1. Amsoil and either their filter or Mobile 1 or WIX filter WIX
2. Mobile 1 synthetic oil and again M1, WIX filter
3. Liquid Molly and again a M1, WIX filter.
just my personal opinion 👆🏽
I used a WIX on my Corvette. I did oil changes every 3K yes even with synthetic oil. A 500+ rwhp car daily driven and never an issue.
2. Mobile 1 synthetic oil and again M1, WIX filter
3. Liquid Molly and again a M1, WIX filter.
just my personal opinion 👆🏽
I used a WIX on my Corvette. I did oil changes every 3K yes even with synthetic oil. A 500+ rwhp car daily driven and never an issue.
Consistent good maintenance is priceless IMHO.
FWIW - Mobile 1 5w-30 story.
I had the small block Chevy got valve cover gaskets at ~360,000 miles. Asked mechanic how the top end looked. He said like ~30,000 motor or so. Told him the mileage. He insisted car had a new crate motor/low mile motor...even insisted prior owner must have replaced engine, no way a 360,000 mile engine could be 30,000 mile clean. Dropped the I've owned this car since 9 miles were on the odometer bomb. He was pretty blown away and impressed by Mobile 1. Credential wise top notch mechanic had been Honda Dealership trainer at Honda's mothership facility in California etc.
Modern oils now days, even the store bought oils (not only the boutique brands) are good, far better than they were 20+ years ago. Remember, they all have to meet a minimal standard, its just how much further above & beyond they go from there can apply to application specific scenarios. I completely understand brand loyalty with oil brands but would advise against running a zinc additive in anything modern especially with a roller cam type valvetrain.... throwing in a zinc additive in grandpas '81 Scottsdale w/a 305 would be fine but really because its a flat tappet cam engine etc.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,291
Likes: 3,615
From: Central Cal.
Modern oils now days, even the store bought oils (not only the boutique brands) are good, far better than they were 20+ years ago. Remember, they all have to meet a minimal standard, its just how much further above & beyond they go from there can apply to application specific scenarios. I completely understand brand loyalty with oil brands but would advise against running a zinc additive in anything modern especially with a roller cam type valvetrain.... throwing in a zinc additive in grandpas '81 Scottsdale w/a 305 would be fine but really because its a flat tappet cam engine etc.
I think the only engines that need ZDDP are those with flat tappets, that have concentrated iron on iron sliding friction, as opposed to bearing surfaces. Newer engines don't have that condition, or not to the degree you have with flat tappets.
ZDDP? Here's some copy and paste for the morning.
Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, commonly known as ZDDP or “zinc” is an anti-wear additive that creates a surface layer boundary inside your engine. This additive sticks to metal, minimizing metal-on-metal contact in high load situations.
What you choose to do with this information is entirely up to you!
Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, commonly known as ZDDP or “zinc” is an anti-wear additive that creates a surface layer boundary inside your engine. This additive sticks to metal, minimizing metal-on-metal contact in high load situations.
What you choose to do with this information is entirely up to you!
update! I took the main off the center journal and it looked AMAZING. So I buttoned that back up 90*, 50* etc etc... (or whatever the numbers were... it was a week ago or more...) I also bought a tool and replaced the cam bearings. I cleaned up/degreased the front and rear covers from the engine and the valve covers. I need to put my new springs on my fresh LS6 heads and reassemble everything with the new cam, new lifters, new GM trays, new gaskets/seals... That's what I'll be doing tonight.
Actually I should get a new starter while I'm at this...
Actually I should get a new starter while I'm at this...