I'm at the point of installing my Rockers on my LS6 project. There seems to be several ways to get pressure off the springs and get accurate torque. I will NOT just tighten them all at once, spin the crank and re-check them - that seems to be just lazy & wrong. Looking at other threads I've seen Cam at 6 / crank at 12 (dot-to-dot) and I've seen BOTH at 12 with crank Keyway at 10:30 (that's why I'm confused). I've done this once before with a cam only swap (mine is heads and all the upper, front & inner guts) and used the following from LS1HowTo.com (I know some here don't love all their methods). This worked for me for removing springs - will it work for installing the rockers?This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.

Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.

Thanks for any help - Such a rookie here!! But I'm learning and liking it !!

 

Here is some guidance I have used in the past

 

I did the method that was posted above me. It worked well and I found easier to do.

 

That is probably the easiest. If a person is just completely detail obsessed, they could always measure pushrod height before tightening rocker arms. Pretty easy to do with valve covers and rocker arms off. Take an extra 10 minutes to alleviate the next 300,000 miles of wondering if you did it wrong, lol. And yes, I am serious about that number. These motors were designed for 300k+ mile rebuild intervals. I have looked at motors with way over 200k miles with crosshatch still showing in the cylinders from the factory machining.

 

Low tension rings ftw