Those with a 383 stroker
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 372
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From: Chester, VA
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
I LOVE my stroker 
Current Results are in sig. I am looking go get as close to tens as possible in full street trim. (FULL interior, M&H musclecar drag DOT street tire, cats on the car etc etc)
Current Results are in sig. I am looking go get as close to tens as possible in full street trim. (FULL interior, M&H musclecar drag DOT street tire, cats on the car etc etc)
Originally Posted by Debian Dog
Sweet thanks Chris. I am looking to spray mine at the track so I am thinking about going all out with a crank and rods... But DANG that Lunati stuff is pricey!
Ya that lunati stuff is pricey but it is high quality stuff, the crank is WAY overkill for a ls1, if you ever see the parts in person compared to the other cranks on the market you will see why they cost so much
Also if you buy the kit you save a decent amount of money over buying the parts seperate
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 372
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From: Chester, VA
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
What size shot are you looking to spray? The eagle stuff will handle 750RWHP easily
Well just a 100 dry at first then I wanted to move to a DP 150+ was thinking 200... Have to give it some thought.
Man you can do the 100 easy with a stock bottom end.
The 150 tuned correctly will be fine as well.
Hell there are quite a few guys even running the 200 shot tuned well and having 0 problems. (At least for a long while)
If you would have said a 2 stage 100/200 then forged would have defentially been the right way to go.
I am not saying that going forged is stupid, as I have 2 cars both forged bottom ends, I am only saying it isn't a must for what you are trying to do.
The 150 tuned correctly will be fine as well.
Hell there are quite a few guys even running the 200 shot tuned well and having 0 problems. (At least for a long while)
If you would have said a 2 stage 100/200 then forged would have defentially been the right way to go.
I am not saying that going forged is stupid, as I have 2 cars both forged bottom ends, I am only saying it isn't a must for what you are trying to do.
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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Eagles bottom end is all forged. With a good diamond/JE/Ross piston I see no reason you couldnt run a 200 shot on the car.
It is a hell of a lot cheaper than the Lunati stuff too. If you were spraying a 400-500 shot I'd go Lunati but otherwise the Eagle stuff should do just fine.
It is a hell of a lot cheaper than the Lunati stuff too. If you were spraying a 400-500 shot I'd go Lunati but otherwise the Eagle stuff should do just fine.
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490rwhp here, 475 rwtq from dyno last night.... mid 10's are cake in good weather/track.
considering the hell I went through to get this done, no, I probably would not do the same thing again. long story.
considering the hell I went through to get this done, no, I probably would not do the same thing again. long story.
well I have a 388 all bore and don't have it "running right" yet (tuned......quite rich) so don't have any dyno numbers but thus far it makes the old 400rwhp 346 seem like a fat pig...... 
451rwhp/441rwtq from dyno day this last Saturday @ MTI.
Numbers are down from intial build (see sig.), but that's attributed to the heat here (93'F/90%RH) and that I put heavy Z06 chrome rims on the car.
I have driven the car for the past year as a daily driver and it has not disappointed, with the R1 cam in, it drives great! Just enough lope to let everyone else know, otherwise it idles fantastic at 800 rpms...Randy
Numbers are down from intial build (see sig.), but that's attributed to the heat here (93'F/90%RH) and that I put heavy Z06 chrome rims on the car.
I have driven the car for the past year as a daily driver and it has not disappointed, with the R1 cam in, it drives great! Just enough lope to let everyone else know, otherwise it idles fantastic at 800 rpms...Randy
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,109
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I like mine due to the fact I don't worry about dropping a sleeve or hydro-locking due to a slipped sleeve, see the trend here on the sleeves. I know MTI and other sponsors have gotten MUCH better with the sleeve technology and the crazy HP numbers for the 402+ cube engines is there but for a much more affordable choice using Eagle components the 383 is right there in the mix.
Darton Wet Sleeve in mine also. While I don't have more than 50 miles on it yet, 100% were dry sleeve blocks and 99.9999999% of those that did drop sleeves did it almost instantly (first or second time it was cranked).
Wet sleeves =
building an all bore 388 cost quite a bit more than the 383 strokers but does it ever spin up fast
Wet sleeves =
building an all bore 388 cost quite a bit more than the 383 strokers but does it ever spin up fast