Help With Cam Selection
I'm pretty sure VCM does just do really big runs only, no customs for any reason as you say. They aren't as popular in NSW as they are in VIC. VCM told me this themselves actually. CamTech used to be big up here but Crow has taken their place from what I can see.
Decision made. I've ordered the TSP 224/228 @112.
I never got a reply from Texas Speed via online form or direct email. I did get response via their facebook messenger but they did not really answer my queries. They did recommend going for this cam. Cleetus McFarland "Bald Eagle" LS1/LS2 N/A Cam Specs: 227/234 .600"/.600" 111 LSA 109 ICL. Which I'm sure would make great power but definitely too big for my liking.
Will still be a few months before the motor comes out but I'll update once it's in.
I've got stock 243 heads going on which I believe will give me a 10.5 compression ratio. What would be the ideal CR for this cam as I can get them milled a bit if need be?
I never got a reply from Texas Speed via online form or direct email. I did get response via their facebook messenger but they did not really answer my queries. They did recommend going for this cam. Cleetus McFarland "Bald Eagle" LS1/LS2 N/A Cam Specs: 227/234 .600"/.600" 111 LSA 109 ICL. Which I'm sure would make great power but definitely too big for my liking.
Will still be a few months before the motor comes out but I'll update once it's in.
I've got stock 243 heads going on which I believe will give me a 10.5 compression ratio. What would be the ideal CR for this cam as I can get them milled a bit if need be?
LS cam discussions are always fun. Back in 2002/3 i had a 224/224 xe-r lobed comp cam and ran 12.1's "cam-only" in a VTii R8 . Then installed a 230/230 590 112 Futral Motorsports cam and 1 3/4 headers and went 11.9's in the 1/4, still "cam-only" , which was quickest cam only ls1 in OZ for a while until GM Motorsport beat it. I hadn't done much effort, car was all still stock HSV susp. I just chose proven parts. At the time i was very conservative with the tune, compared to how i tune them these days. I was probably leaving 30hp on the table if not more.. they were near new cars and expensive back then i didn't want to grenade an engine at the time. That car also had the early 853 ls1 heads or whatever the casting number was, not the later better flowing 241's and 243's ..
Since back then many have run much better numbers. BrettSS from the ls1.com.au forum in Melb ran 11.4 unopened in his SV8 auto. Stock cam and heads. Just from running 4.10s, a good converter (Yank SS3800 from memory), dual 3" exhaust etc etc..
I still remember that 224 xe-r cam i had all those years ago having that sewing machine sound when cruising. The cam motion Futral cam that replaced it was quiet, and quicker, and it was still very streetable. The car was a legit daily driver at the time, i'd bolt hoosier slicks to it and go race it as it was except i dropped the exhaust sometimes, other times not. Car barely changed from dropping the exhaust, maybe 1 tenth improvement which was almost just the weight of it.
Now i have a "donkey dick" (ls1tech speak) sized cam with 30 degrees overlap in a stock cubic inch LS2 with small bore LS7 heads in the car in sig below, and you won't believe it but aside from the fairly rowdy idle, you could drive it daily if you wanted to. I've perfected the tune so good it doesn't even feel like a huge cam. I can't comment on fuel economy because i'm running a th400 with an 8" 5000+ rpm converter and 3.73's and i haven't bothered try measure it obviously as it's not something i care about in this car, i just built it to go fast. Haven't gotten around to racing it yet but the butt-o-meter says holy ****
If i had to choose an ls1 cam for a daily driver today while still retaining good fuel economy, i'd go with a 224/230 112 something around there. Which brand these days? I really don't know i haven't had to look into it. Two decades ago i'd analyze the USA forums and see who was running the quickest et's with what parts and just copy what they were using and it worked.
Since back then many have run much better numbers. BrettSS from the ls1.com.au forum in Melb ran 11.4 unopened in his SV8 auto. Stock cam and heads. Just from running 4.10s, a good converter (Yank SS3800 from memory), dual 3" exhaust etc etc..
I still remember that 224 xe-r cam i had all those years ago having that sewing machine sound when cruising. The cam motion Futral cam that replaced it was quiet, and quicker, and it was still very streetable. The car was a legit daily driver at the time, i'd bolt hoosier slicks to it and go race it as it was except i dropped the exhaust sometimes, other times not. Car barely changed from dropping the exhaust, maybe 1 tenth improvement which was almost just the weight of it.
Now i have a "donkey dick" (ls1tech speak) sized cam with 30 degrees overlap in a stock cubic inch LS2 with small bore LS7 heads in the car in sig below, and you won't believe it but aside from the fairly rowdy idle, you could drive it daily if you wanted to. I've perfected the tune so good it doesn't even feel like a huge cam. I can't comment on fuel economy because i'm running a th400 with an 8" 5000+ rpm converter and 3.73's and i haven't bothered try measure it obviously as it's not something i care about in this car, i just built it to go fast. Haven't gotten around to racing it yet but the butt-o-meter says holy ****

If i had to choose an ls1 cam for a daily driver today while still retaining good fuel economy, i'd go with a 224/230 112 something around there. Which brand these days? I really don't know i haven't had to look into it. Two decades ago i'd analyze the USA forums and see who was running the quickest et's with what parts and just copy what they were using and it worked.
Last edited by Launch; Nov 8, 2023 at 02:53 AM.
Just noticed your latest post OP after i posted to this thread. Good to hear that the TSP 224/228 112 cam is working well. That's what i would have chosen also as i imagine it would work well with all of their experience in the LS game and the fact that they've also race proven many of their own parts they sell at the race track
I don't know how tractive effort relates to torque so I'll ask for one with torque numbers next time I see him. The second graph is from prior to the rebuild. The only performance parts added were the cam and shaved, stock, 243 heads. I'll also ask the tuner if he can do a matching graph so I can compare the curves.
I think 6000rpm is about 196km/hr if my calculations are correct.
Last edited by 2002Monaro; Nov 18, 2023 at 11:36 PM.
Here's the dyno graph.
I don't know how tractive effort relates to torque so I'll ask for one with torque numbers next time I see him. The second graph is from prior to the rebuild. The only performance parts added were the cam and shaved, stock, 243 heads. I'll also ask the tuner if he can do a matching graph so I can compare the curves.
I think 6000rpm is about 196km/hr if my calculations are correct.
I don't know how tractive effort relates to torque so I'll ask for one with torque numbers next time I see him. The second graph is from prior to the rebuild. The only performance parts added were the cam and shaved, stock, 243 heads. I'll also ask the tuner if he can do a matching graph so I can compare the curves.
I think 6000rpm is about 196km/hr if my calculations are correct.
Given the above dyno results, what would be the optimal shift points for drag racing?
I'm running a 3500 stall and 3.73 diff gears.
Limiter is set at 6800 and I'd be happy to spin it to 6500.
I'm thinking of getting the shift points set to 6500 but unsure if that will give the best results so happy to hear others opinions.
I'm running a 3500 stall and 3.73 diff gears.
Limiter is set at 6800 and I'd be happy to spin it to 6500.
I'm thinking of getting the shift points set to 6500 but unsure if that will give the best results so happy to hear others opinions.







