Chubby512

First post, believe I am posting in the right area, apologies if I am not.

Need some help on which way to go, complete newb here - this will be a duly driver for me 2-3x a week.

I picked up a ‘68 C10 that has a LS swap from a 2001 Tahoe - he used everything from that vehicle. Engine, tranny, driveshaft and rear end (he did upgrade the gears to 3.73 with LSD, think it is a 10 bolt from that research I can find), etc.

My research says it is a LM7 iron block rated at 285hp stock (I assume to the fly). I would like to wake this up and get 400whp maybe 500whp downline. I believe the 4L60e with a cooler, shift kit, servo and converter with hold that power (might be a gamble, but I am okay pushing that some for price point). I may need to update the stock radiator too?l (not sure there)??

I have been talking with a tuner with a good reputation in the Temple, TX area.

He is pushing the single turbo with an intercooler to get me where I want to be. I haven’t seen a quote yet, but he says his supplier was offering a 76mm turbo and intercooler for like $1K. Reading forums, it looks like I will need new studs, intake gasket, harden push rods, a westgate, possibly a cam and injectors.

I have looked at NA builds online - cam, heads, intake, headers will probably get me to where I was shooting for too.

I assume the costs would be pretty similar. Both seem pretty reliable since the turbo would be are pretty low boost for those numbers from what I can see.

Any suggestions from the members here on which way you would go? Anything else I am missing?

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

I'd drive the 68 C10 as described 2 or 3 times a week until your really know the truck inside and out. Enjoy as is for six months or so savoring your new resto-mod'd ride. This will help get to know what areas truly need to be addressed to make the truck a fun reliable.

What wheels, tires, brakes & suspension are on the truck currently? Often with 1960's & 1970's era cars or trucks all of that needs upgraded before adding lots of power. Doesn't have to be massive upgrades, power steering, power disc brakes, good shocks, disc brakes & well matched sway bars can work magic if your C10 doesn't already have etc.

After all of that, I'd look at the turbo set up & plan for a built transmission if you think want 400+ whp to 500+ whp with great driveablity & reliability.

I'd skip trying to do a driver NA build with 500whp being mentioned with a 5.3 unless you're up for spraying it.

Chubby512

Thanks for the reply.

yeah, it has front disc, back drums, Nitto NT05s, bagged suspension with schrader valves, power steering and tilt column, A/C, Dakota digital gauges, new head unit with okay-ish 6x9s, and relocated rear fuel tank.

the guy did a pretty good job on it, and I have driven it some, definitely want more from it, why I am here.

Oh forgot to mention I will be running 93 octane on the original post too.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

You should plan on a turbo conversion costing you around $5K +. Unless you want to cut corners, forced induction is NOT cheap. Heads/Cam/Intake on a 5.3 should give you somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-480 FWHP, and there are tons of proven combos. I'd do as suggested, drive it as is, and get a feel for the truck. It'll make it easier to decide how much power you really want down the road.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like you have a sweet C10 build with all sorts of quality improvements.

Have dyno numbers, 1/4 mile times for the current set up?

Chubby512

so, heads, intake, cam, long tubes, tune seem pretty close to that $5K range too from what I am pricing out - still think that is the right way to go vs the turbo?

Chubby512

not yet! But will have dyno numbers after all this from the tuner. I am pretty sure it is close to 285hp to the fly stock numbers maybe 300ish with the short tubes and CAI.

babydeuce

iTrader: (24)

Very sage advice from 99 Black Bird!

I have a very expensive built 5.3, and it does not put down the numbers that you are looking at. It is fun to drive, but it is in a 3000 lbs car. That 4L60E is a ticking time bomb at the power levels you want without being properly built. I personally run a Performabuilt Level 2, but there are many good vendors on the forums.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I was assuming a pair of stock heads that were CNC ported and outfitted with valves/springs, which you can get for about $1300. Cam and pushrods, $500. Headers vary wildly in price, but you can get them as low as $400. Add in gaskets and bolts, oil etc., that's another $500. A tune is $800-1000. That's $3500-$3700. So yes, it's creeping up on $5K. However, $5K for a turbo is the lowest of the low end. I'm doing a turbo build right now, shooting for 700-750 to the wheels. All I have so far is the turbo hot and cold side, and a fuel system, and I'm at $2400. I still have to get a cam, boost control, engine management, and injectors, along with a bunch of other supporting parts. At least another $4K, I'm estimating. It adds up, trust me. But if that's the direction you want to take, go for it! I know my ride is going to be a blast I just like to be informative so a person can make an educated decision.

Also: For anything over 400 RWHP and trying to keep on budget, I'd get rid of that 4L60E and install a 4L80E. You can do a budget build of a 4L80E that will support 1000HP, there's nothing cheap about a 4L60E that can do the same.

brownrd

Why not do a supercharger? Seems like a better solution than turbo or NA for the power levels you are looking for.

Chubby512

Kind of where I am at right now, for a little more go turbo and as the backend gets redone over time in the truck just push more boost to it vs being capped on NA build.

can you provide any content on the budget build on the 80e? Everything I have seen looks like some work, new driveshaft, support, wiring, new converter, shift kit, retune, etc

been debating this route in leu of the 60e not making it vs buying something like beefed up 60e and keeping my same tune, driveshaft and converter.

Chubby512

so, I looked down this route some. Emailed magnuson, and they said they don’t make a kit for the 2001 Tahoe engine I have and recommended I talk to a dealer which told me there is only the procharger kit available that will work without a bunch of modifications. That kit was like $7K shipped, plus the labor to install, getting close to double the budget of the turbo/bolt ons there.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

huron-speed-22-23-group-purchase-biggest-sale-year might be worth checking out.

DualQuadDave

iTrader: (6)

JMO, I would ditch the whole 5.3/60e and buy a 6.0/80e and go from there. You can slap a cam in the 6.0 and have fun for a while until you can afford boost. It's just better $$$, my opinion. The ONLY reason to keep the 5.3 you have is if you are def going boost. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother w/ it.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I would avoid the shift kit. More than 1 tuner has told me to avoid them. They work great in a 350, or 400 turbo, which the 4L60E is not. I have had a built LS7 yanking on my C5s 4L60E for almost 17 years, and the car/trans has 130,000+ miles on it, so the stock trans can live. I realize a truck is at least another 1,400lbs, but you may be surprised what you can do with just the PCM. You can program shift speed, line pressure, many things. DO NOT remove torque management. DO increase the figure from whatever OEM value is, say 460ft/lbs, to, say, 1,000ft/lbs, but DO NOT eliminate it. I'm not a trans guy, but I do know what the tuner did to my trans. I also went with a 3,200 stall Yank 17 years ago. Nothing succeeds like success, so I figure that after 40-50 dragstrip runs, 130,000 miles, over 500whp, and all I've ever done is change the fluid and filter, something must've been done correctly!! My 4L60E has TOTALLY STOCK internals, and has NEVER been apart......YET!!