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Well, I got to run it without valve covers. Took a minute but it got plenty of oil up top and made a pretty big mess. I was short on time and didnt get to check much else out though. This weekend I'll dig a little deeper. Maybe I'll pull some springs off and look for evidence of contacting parts. If I dont see anything the only thing I can think of is swapping the lifters out. With you guys having good luck with the LS7's maybe I'll give them a shot. Those NASCAR take offs on here seem like a good deal at $125 a set, assuming they are legit. At least it would be a way to test that doesn't break the bank.
For those that are running the LS7 lifters, did you go with the ones listed as Chevrolet Performance LS712499225? I see some listed as 25341990 at half the price but it seems like they are the Delphi ones.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
I think I've bought bulk LS7s multiple times with no issue. Current ones have seen 7400. On my next build I'll be using @Summitracing lifters.
They have 2 models, HT-215 and HT-217. The HT-217's are the Morels and thats what I have.
Post Covid I'm unsure if the GM LS7 lifter quality is what it used to be.
That's bad if the Morel hydraulic rollers are noisy. Hadn't seen that before.
I agree. If I cant quiet this valvetrain down I'm going to be pretty disappointed. I went with what is supposed to be a quiet lobe and lifter combo so that it sounds close to stock.
Post covid is what I'm worried about with the Morels and GM (still not sure its lifters though). It seems like the lifters in general are being hit pretty hard. Brand new Chevy's have problems, some of Comp's lifters seem to have problems and I see a lot of lifter options are just out of stock. I really dont want to spend $700+ on lifters for a mild cam setup.
Is this normal, for the spring to compress while tightening? After I torque the rocker down it takes about 5 mins and starts to loosen up so that I can move the rocker side to side. I worry about it holding the valve open once it pumps up with full oil pressure.
That is normal due to the fact that lifter preload is built into the pushrod and once torque you've set the lifter preload. Good stuff there on post #57 regarding lifter preload.
That is normal due to the fact that lifter preload is built into the pushrod and once torque you've set the lifter preload. Good stuff there on post #57 regarding lifter preload.
Would you say post #57 is a better method than how I do it as I described it #59, using a PR length tool and calipers?
Is this normal, for the spring to compress while tightening? After I torque the rocker down it takes about 5 mins and starts to loosen up so that I can move the rocker side to side. I worry about it holding the valve open once it pumps up with full oil pressure.
In your video it shows the lifters bleeding down the amount of preload.
Once the preload is set it never changes, never changes with oil pressure, the only thing that will change preload is valve float. Lifter "pump up" will decrease preload but they will only pump up if there's mechanical separation. A lifter will bleed down excessively if it's designed to, worn out, or not made very well. And will lead to noise.
There were some informative videos posted today HERE
BTW Brian Nutter (in one of the videos) is an engineer for Summit Pro LS parts including their entire line of cams.
I've spoken with him on the phone several times. He knows his stuff, and part of what I say comes from what I've learned from him.
Would you say post #57 is a better method than how I do it as I described it #59, using a PR length tool and calipers?
I wouldn't say better as I determine PR length with a length checking tool and a caliper gauge. Determine zero lash, add the recommended lifter preload and order the PR's.
Update. Pulled all pushrods, checked for straightness and torque all back down. Decided to run it until it got good and hot. Once it got hot it quieted down quite a bit. Maybe it just needs to run more and break everything in.
I still have more noise than I'd like and definitely more noise on one side. I'll check that side again and probably end up pulling that head at least.
I'm not giving up yet but just want to say thanks for everyone's help.
I wouldn't say better as I determine PR length with a length checking tool and a caliper gauge. Determine zero lash, add the recommended lifter preload and order the PR's.
I had ordered a set from Texas Speed once and I made the mistake on not checking them for the OAL I had requested. They turned out to be slightly longer than needed for those Lunati High RPM lifters which didn't hurt them but did add more preload than needed. I ended up ordering a new set from Smith Brothers but being the lifters were link bars and I'm also running a FAST 102 intake that lifter noise was pronounced.
A little update....I think I found the issue.
Noise was too much for me to take so I pulled one of the heads (all I have time for ATM). There seems to be quite a bit of wear on the lifter bodies and definitely some issues with the areas circled in red. Whats people's opinions on this much wear in less than 50 mi and only 5,500 rpm twice?
Cam looks good and rollers don't have any signs of damage. I cant feel the iindividual scratches on the lifters but I does have an overall rougher feel compared to the rest of the body. Kind of like comparing 2000 grit to 1500 sandpaper.
The last picture has an original lifter that came out of the engine for reference. It had 90k+ miles (assuming they were original). Also the one with the red circle looks like it had a high spot and wore it down already. There are several that have this in the same area. Maybe the debris from that is whats causing the wear on the rest of the body...
This thread went dead before a resolve.
Did you ever figure your exact problem out.
Just curious what the fix,,is after many back and forths ,,comments,and the tread dies,,in the middle of the diagnosis.
Curious. What number of head gasket were/are you using. Have seen a couple threads were people had used the incorrect head gasket,and sounded exactly like valve train noise. Cant remember what the years/ & litre combo was but head gaskets did fit with no coolant leaks but were hanging into the actual cylinders.
Did another set of lifters actually cure the problem,,after having run the vehicle for some time now?
This thread went dead before a resolve.
Did you ever figure your exact problem out.
Just curious what the fix,,is after many back and forths ,,comments,and the tread dies,,in the middle of the diagnosis.
Curious. What number of head gasket were/are you using. Have seen a couple threads were people had used the incorrect head gasket,and sounded exactly like valve train noise. Cant remember what the years/ & litre combo was but head gaskets did fit with no coolant leaks but were hanging into the actual cylinders.
Did another set of lifters actually cure the problem,,after having run the vehicle for some time now?
Thanks
Sorry its taken so long to answer you but I was waiting on a new short block and then a bunch of life stuff happened and things just took a lot longer.
To answer your question about the gaskets. I was running GM with a 4.080 bore. I forget the part number but they were listed under LS2 GTO so they should have been fine. I never did track down the noise 100%. I ended up getting a new short block from Thompson Motorsports. With the short block went in Johnson 2116LSR lifters and custom Manton pushrods. Everything else in the top end is exactly the same.
I do have some noise similar to what was there before but its coming from the exhuast. With the stethoscope I hear almost nothing from the valve covers to the valley. When you get to the manifolds its get pretty noisy. I believe its just the valves slamming shut. In the near future I'll probably end up swapping heads to see but then I'll have to get new pushrods and gaskets, etc. and I'm just not ready to get into it again
Should have just went with genuine GM lifters and 7.400 pushrods and been done with it…..do you still have the shortblock seeing as how you went out and got a new one???
12-15-2022, 05:52 PM
