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LQ4 370CI engine build sheet. Any Advice?

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Old 01-31-2023, 02:55 AM
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Default LQ4 370CI engine build sheet. Any Advice?

Hey fellas, I am looking for sound advice with this engine build i am doing, i have till feb 13th before this order ships. Some things i already have, like the turbo, injectors and intake manifold. I would appreciate feedback with an explanation so i can wrap my head around any advice given.
The goal is a reliable turbo daily with around 500rwhp on spring (7psi spring), and up to 10psi with 3 port mac valve on Pump 91(no E85 in Canuckistan). I may run a water/meth kit later on but for now, this is what i've purchased.
The planned build is as follows:

Gen 3 LQ4 Iron Block
Mag Tested
Bored, honed .030 over with torque plate and rotating assembly balanced at a machine shop
The Assembly i will be doing, the bearing clearences with the provided bearings should measure .0021 on the rods, and .00265 on the mains
This engine should come out at about 9.5:1 CR if my math is right.


Rotating Assembly: Summit Racing™ Pro LS 6.0L Rotating Assemblies SUM-R2436L03012
Upgraded Wrist Pins: Summit Racing™ Pro LS Wrist Pins SUM-S719-8
Balancer: ATI Super Damper Serpentine Series Harmonic Balancers 917286
Heads: Trick Flow® GenX® 225 Cylinder Heads for GM LS2 TFS-3061T001-C02
Head Gaskets: Cometic MLS Head Gaskets C5751-056
Oil Pump: Melling Performance Oil Pumps 10296
Rockers: COMP Cams Ultra Gold Aluminum Rocker Arms 19024-16
Pushrods: Trick Flow® Chromoly Pushrods TFS-21407500
Lifters: Gaterman GP1009 Link Bar
Camshaft: BTR Camshafts TRUCKNORRIS
Injectors: Holley EFI Terminator X Fuel Injectors 522-768X
Intake Manifold: 102MM FLOW EFI LS1/LS6 LSX CATHEDRAL PORT LOW-PROFILE FABRICATED INTAKE MANIFOLD
Turbo: True North Turbos S476 76MM T4 87/82 AR/1.10
Intercooler: CXRACING 31X12X4 INCH UNIVERSAL INTERCOOLER
Manifold: LS T4 Log Manifold

Stock driverside manifold.

Old waterpump/oil pan/timing cover, all new gaskets.
Fuel system is 10AN PFTE feed/return. 130GPH Holley Inline pump.
Trans is a 4L80e with a HD2 TransGo kit, 3400 stall Circle D 258mm converter.



Cam selection im 50/50 on, i originally went with a BTR Stage 2 Turbo cam, but with aluminum rocker arms and ratio of 1.72 would mean that cam would be .617/.615 lift and it would also effect the duration
According to Richard Holdener, the power level is dictated by the turbo, not the camshaft. Hence why i am currently sitting with a Truck Norris cam. Delivering more torque down low means faster spooling turbo.
These are his words, not mine. I've also heard that dynos don't have to deal with dynamic loads, therefor his testing isnt the whole picture.


Old 01-31-2023, 10:37 AM
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Looks more like an 800+whp capable and if you are truly limited to pump 91 and or adding meth you could keep ALOT of money back in your pocket unless you are just mad at it like most of us.

Remember it does not take a rowdy N/A 6.0 to make 375-400whp on pump so adding another 100 or so on top of that with FI is not a stretch.

Your rotating assembly/wrist pin is more than adequate for your current goal (and beyond).
The ATI is not a bad idea. (Add ARP crank bolt)
MLS is the go to HG.
Oil pump upgrade will not hurt anything.

Heads: I'd seriously look for a nice set of 243, L92, or even 821 and just upgrade the spring package to your flavor and could even have someone CNC them and still be money ahead. I say 243 over 317 as your piston has the comp right around what it would be.
Rocker: Save your money, if you want a really nice set go with the BTR OEM shaft or COMP BSR (however again not needed) or just a nice Manton bushed OEM rocker or whoever's flavor is OK to use now a days.
Pushrods: Not sure the TF are needed but damn near everyone offers their own flavor of hardened PR today.
Lifters: Link bar certainly not needed as you will not have excessive spring pressures or be spinning this engine 8000+ rpm
Camshaft: The one you picked will be more than enough and should have a noticeable idle.
Injectors: I'd honestly just pick up a new or low mileage set if ID850's (many outgrow their goals so there is usually a nice low mileage set floating around the WWW).
Intake Manifold: Unless that intake is needed for clearance (or you want it for looks), I'd use just about any OEM car or truck intake over that intake. Edelbrock Pro-Flow if you want that style?
Turbo: Size wise for a fun daily and power goal seem to in the right direction. T4 1.1 should light pretty quick and not run out of steam up top.
Intercooler: Treadstone 4" A2A IC (1245) seems to be a real good performer unless you are space limited.
Manifold: Looks like a turbo log manifold, not sure what you are fitting this in but there are many options now a days.

Head bolts: I'd add to that a set of ARP head bolts over OEM just because, studs really are overkill.

You'll have to think about WG placement since that manifold does not have a provision. I've seen them put on the crossover but I think boost creep issues are more prevalent in that scenario.
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blackdak318 (02-01-2023)
Old 01-31-2023, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ALL ULL C
Looks more like an 800+whp capable and if you are truly limited to pump 91 and or adding meth you could keep ALOT of money back in your pocket unless you are just mad at it like most of us.

Remember it does not take a rowdy N/A 6.0 to make 375-400whp on pump so adding another 100 or so on top of that with FI is not a stretch.

Your rotating assembly/wrist pin is more than adequate for your current goal (and beyond).
The ATI is not a bad idea. (Add ARP crank bolt)
MLS is the go to HG.
Oil pump upgrade will not hurt anything.

Heads: I'd seriously look for a nice set of 243, L92, or even 821 and just upgrade the spring package to your flavor and could even have someone CNC them and still be money ahead. I say 243 over 317 as your piston has the comp right around what it would be.
Rocker: Save your money, if you want a really nice set go with the BTR OEM shaft or COMP BSR (however again not needed) or just a nice Manton bushed OEM rocker or whoever's flavor is OK to use now a days.
Pushrods: Not sure the TF are needed but damn near everyone offers their own flavor of hardened PR today.
Lifters: Link bar certainly not needed as you will not have excessive spring pressures or be spinning this engine 8000+ rpm
Camshaft: The one you picked will be more than enough and should have a noticeable idle.
Injectors: I'd honestly just pick up a new or low mileage set if ID850's (many outgrow their goals so there is usually a nice low mileage set floating around the WWW).
Intake Manifold: Unless that intake is needed for clearance (or you want it for looks), I'd use just about any OEM car or truck intake over that intake. Edelbrock Pro-Flow if you want that style?
Turbo: Size wise for a fun daily and power goal seem to in the right direction. T4 1.1 should light pretty quick and not run out of steam up top.
Intercooler: Treadstone 4" A2A IC (1245) seems to be a real good performer unless you are space limited.
Manifold: Looks like a turbo log manifold, not sure what you are fitting this in but there are many options now a days.

Head bolts: I'd add to that a set of ARP head bolts over OEM just because, studs really are overkill.

You'll have to think about WG placement since that manifold does not have a provision. I've seen them put on the crossover but I think boost creep issues are more prevalent in that scenario.
According to the Summit Rep, the rotating assembly is good to 1200rwhp, I have a ARP crank bolt i will be stealing off my current 5.3. I already have ARP Main studs, Head Studs, intake manifold, Intercooler and injectors already. Heads are just something i've always wanted, they perform insanely well from all the testing i've seen. As far as Rockers go, I am forced to use a roller/rocker due to the bronze guides and valve angle on the aftermarket heads. So OEM style rockers that scrub the tip of the valves are not ideal, you can run them on those heads but it will prematurely wear the guides. I also require 7.500 inch pushrods for the heads, so may as well pick up the brand that makes the heads. IIRC the spring pressure on the TFS heads is around 450lbs. I've considered going with BTR's Delphi LS7 lifters and trays, but i am trying to build this engine to be bullet proof if i decide to shoot for the moon with a bigger cam, bigger injectors and spinning it faster later down the road. For now, my goals are modest with the capability to really push it later down the road.

For wastegate placement i am going to run it right off the 90 degree bend just before the T4 flange, where all the exhaust pressure is slamming into that elbow, then i can just dump the wastegate straight down. This engine will be fitted into my 1965 C10, its currently a NA 5.3, cam with intake and the 76lbhr injectors on a Terminator X Max, going to build the turbo kit on this truck, its got low oil pressure apparently. Holley reads oil pressure at 25psi at idle, my aftermarket dash reads it at 40psi. So i am just going to send it till both read zero

Old 02-01-2023, 01:20 PM
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Super overkill for what you're goals are. I would honestly stick a cam in a SBE 6.0, turbo it, and let it eat. A SBE 6.0 will take whatever you throw at it with that turbo and the fuel you're limited to.
Old 02-01-2023, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by blackdak318
Super overkill for what you're goals are. I would honestly stick a cam in a SBE 6.0, turbo it, and let it eat. A SBE 6.0 will take whatever you throw at it with that turbo and the fuel you're limited to.
Definitely overkill, i am eyeballing switching my rotating assembly over to a 408 stroker right now because i can't help myself. im a child.
Old 02-04-2023, 08:09 AM
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Wouldn’t cheap out on lifters. Spend the money on lifters.
Measures every pushrod custom order and don’t cheap out on those either. Manton comes to mind

Measure every pushrod you end up ordering also.
I’d go with a stock style rocker with the BTR shaft mount setup.

Last edited by jasons69chevelle; 02-04-2023 at 08:16 AM.



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