LS1 Rebuild
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 5
From: Houghton Lake, MI
LS1 Rebuild Hey all, new member here but I’ve been a lurker for a while. I have an 01 Firehawk 4A with 157,000 miles. It’s got long tube headers, cutouts, SLP 85mm MAF, 3600 stall, and a few small other things as far as I know. I got it from my dad, he’s had it for about 15 years. He got it with 130,00, and I got it with just under 151,000. I know these engines are infamous for the piston slap noise, but it has me concerned. My dad got it with slicks, and it has been raced, but I don’t know how often or how hard.
The car runs great, starts every time, and I’m using it for a daily at the moment. It burns about a half quart every 4-500 miles depending on if I’m getting on it or not. I take it super easy 90% of the time, it’s not like I’m abusing it or anything. It makes the slap when cold, and it never really goes away. I can hear it all the way to redline basically, although I’ve rarely taken it there because I’m super worried about damaging the engine.
I’d like to rebuild it over next winter, I’m thinking of going forged internals and a stage three cam. I was thinking 383, but I have the stock trans and rear so I don’t really want to make that much power. Is there a kit you guys would recommend, or any other advice you might have? Thanks!
The car runs great, starts every time, and I’m using it for a daily at the moment. It burns about a half quart every 4-500 miles depending on if I’m getting on it or not. I take it super easy 90% of the time, it’s not like I’m abusing it or anything. It makes the slap when cold, and it never really goes away. I can hear it all the way to redline basically, although I’ve rarely taken it there because I’m super worried about damaging the engine.
I’d like to rebuild it over next winter, I’m thinking of going forged internals and a stage three cam. I was thinking 383, but I have the stock trans and rear so I don’t really want to make that much power. Is there a kit you guys would recommend, or any other advice you might have? Thanks!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 5
From: Houghton Lake, MI
So even at that many miles, you’d keep the low end, trans, and rear? I’ve heard the 4L60E and 10 bolt are pretty much maxed at 450-500 whp.
I’d really like to get some new pistons and a valve train rebuild with a cam going on. That piston slap has to go away, I’m willing to rebuild just to get rid of that. I only want to do this once, and I never plan on selling this, so I want it to be good for 40 years of fun lol. When I drive it now, with that slap, I super baby it. I want to feel confident to have fun.
I’d really like to get some new pistons and a valve train rebuild with a cam going on. That piston slap has to go away, I’m willing to rebuild just to get rid of that. I only want to do this once, and I never plan on selling this, so I want it to be good for 40 years of fun lol. When I drive it now, with that slap, I super baby it. I want to feel confident to have fun.
I personally would look at getting forged rods and pistons and having it balanced with your LS1 crankshaft. If you want to keep it street friendly with fuel economy in mind then don't go the HCI route. When you do that you're going to have to start looking at upgrading everything else like the fuel system, transmission, torque converter, rear end, etc..The rabbit hole can get deep.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 5
From: Houghton Lake, MI
Is there a known issue with the stock rods?
Basically I just want a bullet proof engine that I can beat on without worry and is still streetable. With this many miles I’m just gonna go for a full rebuild, and if I do it I wanna do it all once and right. Even if it’s overkill for what I’m doing, I don’t think that’s a bad thing. I’m never selling this car, so I’d like to be cruising this in 30 years on the same engine.
Basically I just want a bullet proof engine that I can beat on without worry and is still streetable. With this many miles I’m just gonna go for a full rebuild, and if I do it I wanna do it all once and right. Even if it’s overkill for what I’m doing, I don’t think that’s a bad thing. I’m never selling this car, so I’d like to be cruising this in 30 years on the same engine.
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Yeah the rods in a gen 3 engine are considered the "weak" link, but not till you are making 700hp or so(according to the internet) I'm making more than that and spin it to 7k. I'm sure I'm going to kill it eventually.
By the time you spend the money on getting ARP bolts and having them resized, cost wise it's normally about the same to go with an aftermarket rod.
Also with a LS1, I think you can only go like .005 overbore(if it's actually called that with that small amount)because the cylinder liners aren't very thick. If the bores are OOR beyond spec, there's not much you can do about it.
The first two things you should always ask yourself is, 1. What's my goals 2. What's my budget. Be realistic about both.
When I made the comment earlier about there's no need to go with a fully forged bottom end on a LS1, I should have stated for your power goals.
Upgrade? Yeah.
Fully forged bottom end for an engine that makes 500hp, not needed. IMO, and that's all it is, an opinion.
By the time you spend the money on getting ARP bolts and having them resized, cost wise it's normally about the same to go with an aftermarket rod.
Also with a LS1, I think you can only go like .005 overbore(if it's actually called that with that small amount)because the cylinder liners aren't very thick. If the bores are OOR beyond spec, there's not much you can do about it.
The first two things you should always ask yourself is, 1. What's my goals 2. What's my budget. Be realistic about both.
When I made the comment earlier about there's no need to go with a fully forged bottom end on a LS1, I should have stated for your power goals.
Upgrade? Yeah.
Fully forged bottom end for an engine that makes 500hp, not needed. IMO, and that's all it is, an opinion.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 51
Likes: 5
From: Houghton Lake, MI
I appreciate all the input everyone!
Forged is overkill, so can anyone recommend a rebuild kit? I want all the gaskets, I’d like to go 347 and keep it original, and I would like to do a stage three cam.
I’ve been looking at these.
https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...g-cover-gasket
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-762-ts...xoCEbQQAvD_BwE
https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...0aAq4dEALw_wcB
Forged is overkill, so can anyone recommend a rebuild kit? I want all the gaskets, I’d like to go 347 and keep it original, and I would like to do a stage three cam.
I’ve been looking at these.
https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...g-cover-gasket
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-762-ts...xoCEbQQAvD_BwE
https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...0aAq4dEALw_wcB
So even at that many miles, you’d keep the low end, trans, and rear? I’ve heard the 4L60E and 10 bolt are pretty much maxed at 450-500 whp.
I’d really like to get some new pistons and a valve train rebuild with a cam going on. That piston slap has to go away, I’m willing to rebuild just to get rid of that. I only want to do this once, and I never plan on selling this, so I want it to be good for 40 years of fun lol. When I drive it now, with that slap, I super baby it. I want to feel confident to have fun.
I’d really like to get some new pistons and a valve train rebuild with a cam going on. That piston slap has to go away, I’m willing to rebuild just to get rid of that. I only want to do this once, and I never plan on selling this, so I want it to be good for 40 years of fun lol. When I drive it now, with that slap, I super baby it. I want to feel confident to have fun.