Hi all,

Melling 10296/K&N HP-2006 Filter/VR1 10w30, OEM replacement pan.
Oil pan baffle/Crank scraper/Drilled lifter trays

Got the car back from shop last weekend after getting an LQ9 swapped in, and oil pressure seemed fine. hot idle would be around 45, this was with VR1 full syn, 10w30, K&N filter. Yesterday I went ahead and changed the oil, and decided to use regular VR1, grey bottle, 10w30. Oil pressure never drops below 60 on the dash, and will peg 80psi after 3000 rpm, give or take 500. Is the relief valve stuck? Does the regular VR1 really increase oil pressure this much, and should I switch back to the full syn VR1? I went and picked up a new K&N filter today and swapped in out with no change. Car does not make any odd tapping/knocking noises either.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Your pressure sender might have taken a dump. Check it with a mechanical gauge.

 

I thought about doing this, but found it weird it happened right after changing oil, with all other variables staying the same. How would a guy go about doing this, replacing the stocker with a certain sender? I briefly saw that some people talk about drill/tapping a piece to the top right of the oil filter. Would an oil filter insert that gives a npt thread insert also work? Do these locations provide different readings?

Thanks in advance

 

There is a port on the driverside front of the block you can get an adapter for or the part above the oil filter …look at ict billet they make a few diffrent adapters for diffrent locations…i just figured the front would be easiest to get to…good luck

 

Tried changing the oil back? It’s not likely, but the easiest thing to try. Changing your sensor is not a big job either. Usually a bad sensor has a small oil leak on top,

 

This is really a simple fix…dont over analyze just go replace the damn thing….not unless its a 4th gen f body…..lol…..**** i just noticed the username and it does look like an f body….go from a diffrent port like a mentioned before and be done with it….you can get a adapter and cheap mechanical gauge for around $50 all in!!

 

Hi all,

Have not gotten a chance to put a mech gauge on it yet. I decided to swap out the conventional 10W-30 VR1 for Royal Purple HPS 5W-30, (and their K&N HP-2006 equivalent, forgot the part number) and the pressure has seemed to drop just a little. Still have not seen it drop below 60, the lowest I have seen it is aligned with the 60 mark on the gauge. Gauge is not stuck, as it does sweep back to 0 with key on ACC, and will rest at 40 with car off. Say car is at idle, warmed up - 60 lbs. Get going to around 2k rpms, and it will rise to 62-65 PSI. I may attempt to switch back to VR1 full syn 10w-30, but I'd still like to know what is up with this thing. Is this a normal thing with the Melling 10296? Car also has the Improved Racing aluminum oil barbell. Could it be installed backwards, or stuck in a way that raises pressure?

TIA

 

10296 will raise pressure quicker, which s the objective. AFAIK they are delivered with the higher pressure spring installed, and a standard pressure spring in the package as an alternative. Still, the high pressure bleed off spring should only come into play at higher RPMs. In other words not bleeding off as early as the standard spring. 60+ lbs at 2k rpm seems high.

May need to contact Melling on Monday.