We’ll that’s what I’m hoping I’ll see after this next oil change with different oil just still look very funky to me. If it’s eating a bearing I’d be dropping oil pressure at 1000 miles or not necessarily?

 

Eventually, probably. May take awhile but in my experience metal doesn't grow back once it's worn off.

Find out what it is though, and go from there. No rash "assumptions". Don't jump directly to doom and gloom but prepare yourself mentally for it anyway.

 

Based on everything you posted about this build you say a machine shop built it but yet you had a problem with the cam plate causing a bind up. Then the machine shop fixed it.

In another post you said the tune was off and "maxing out the STFT's" As they say usually when "they" (forum members) know whats happened is this washes oil off the rings. As in causes excessive wear. Sure (I'm assuming) this problem has been resolved but how long it takes to wash the crap out of the top of the factory windage tray and oil pan no one knows.

Seeing the inconsistencies in this build might make others wonder what else was not said or not noticed during assembly.

And bimetal aluminum bearings you say. Do you know? Since a machine shop built it. That means steel outer with a layer of aluminum (same as stock) not going to produce bronze metallic in the oil.

I'm just making your concern my concern so I hope you don't get mad at me for asking, usually people do.

 

Thinking positive here, maybe the block wasn't thoroughly cleaned before assembly. I would get another jug of oil and filter and do a change asap and see if the same results are visible before you start tearing into this. Bring the pan with some oil in it to show the shop that built the engine and see what they say.

 

My friend had this happen. He only had the machine work done and assembled it himself. He didn't clean the oil passages in the crank. He described oil pressure much like the OP here. Started fine, but as the miles went on the maximum pressures cold and hot kept getting lower.
And we all know the old 10psi per 1000 rpm rule. I don't agree with that. When there is a newly rebuilt engine that typically has 40 psi minimum hot or cold and it has 10 hot, there is always a problem.

 

Stft was resolved quickly got them all within 5 within first 50 miles I bought all the parts and the machine shop did the rest it was all king up bearings with the bi metal Babbitt and aluminum? There was the cam issue which the machinist said he had resolved I offered to get a new cam but he said it was fine still was weird to me. I’m going to buy more oil tomorrow clocked about 200 so far oil pressure is consistent above 40 at idle and on throttle up to 70 only when it is really hot and thins out I’ll notice the gauge which is stock go a line closer to 40 but still we’ll above 40psi hot and cold idle

 

When I left with the longblock I was told the work was warrantied not the parts, which is a conundrum because what if the work causes parts to fail… I don’t want to knock the guy because that’s not what I’m in the business of I just am really curious why this is happening when all I did was put valve covers on bolt it up to trans and put it in the truck. The cam endplay issue was confusing to me and made me think it wasn’t a cam issue more of an internal issue but who knows. All my fuel trims and everything are on par obviously took a few miles but nothing to the point where the tune would cause an issue like this

 

Does it have a factory oil cooler?

 

Factory through the radiator which was flushed but the motor I pulled out was a perfectly fine motor no shavings in that oil whatsoever

 

So who put the cam in? The other post sounds like you did. This one sounds like the shop did.

This is why I never have a shop assemble my stuff.
Are they a general, does all engines type of shop?

Do you know what they set the ring gap to? I've had rings right out of the box on a standard bore that I honed have a gap way too small, like .005
I would like to think that a bored block would be tighter than a used bore. But then again you didn't say exactly what the shop did. Did they bore it or just hone it?

What year is this engine? Whats the size and where did it come from?

 

02 lq4 4.030 over gen x 225 heads eagle rods king hp bearings summit cam stock stroke heartland sharp sls17 rockers ls7 lifters cometic 4.030 .051 head gasket here’s the machine shop invoice

 

Actually looking at that he used mahle bearings every other one was king
engine was a core from junkyard

 

Looks like a thorough job. Maybe give them a call and tell them whats going on.

I seem to recall years ago using an assembly grease that had ingredients that would cause the oil to look like that, it says they packed the oil pump with assembly grease.

I doubt thats the problem but maybe you will get lucky and they can help you out.

 

How many miles after that change should I dump the oil right away?

 

Looks like molylube additive. Do you know exactly what was used during assembly?

 

Not exactly I know the timing chain and pump was greased very religiously but after 1k miles wouldn’t any assembly lube be out?

 

I don’t think so, because it would cover everything inside the engine. Depending on how well the oil cleans, pull a valve cover and touch a rocker, see if anything sticks to your finger, you might be able to reach a rocker with just removing the oil fill.

 

Nothing on the rockers changed oil today looking horrible still

 

Give it a "douche"...
3 gts mineral spirits and 3 qts cheap oil.
Idle it only for 20 minutes, while watching the pressure.
Drain it and see what you get.

 

Totally agree with Buzzard on this! I was thinking the same thing just didn't know if it was still accepted practice