Shtstr

My springs are 470lb over the nose and 129 seat pressure. They are rated at 505lb .
part number 26926ts-kit or 26926ti-kit.
I'm probably going go with the TS kit as the car will rarely see 6500rpm plus.
will only see that on the dyno I'd say just for tuning purposes.

Shtstr

sorry my mistake. The torque split is 62/38 rear and front.
62 rear 38 front.
Viscose drive torque split. Ill try and fine the exact specifications and post them up for all to see.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

129 on the seat is too low for any NA build and will float badly with any kind of boost in the picture which effectively reduces seat pressure even more. (Once again we see a potential mismatch of components which others have touched on in this thread).

The hot ticket is stout seat pressure and modest over the nose....that will give you rock solid valve control all the time. 175 ish or there about (depends on other factors whether you need a little more or could run a little less) and low to mid 400's open is ideal (even around 400 with a milder set-up).

And I do use the YT Ultralites for 90+ percent of ALL my LS builds but the proper spring selection is important and required to get the most from them based on the cam aggressiveness (including lobe design) and intended RPM of the package.

Excellent rockers that are purpose built for HR valvetrain systems

Regards,
Tony

Shtstr

Hi Tony thank you for that info.
The valve springs are the ones recommended for the comp cam from comp cams.
The cam is a LSR 54 458 11 cam 227/235 113+4 and the springs are the ones that they recommended This is also listed on their website for that cam.
Rather frustrating then if they don't know what they are doing for such a major cam manufacturer.
These were also advised to use the comp cams 13702 Trunion upgrade kit with the stock ls1 rocker. But I prefer to go to full roller for that little extra life on the valve guides.
or will the factory rocker arms be OK with 7200rpm and that spring pressure?

Pulse Red

All the AWD Holden / HSV cars I know of went boost to make decent numbers but this was back in the day (when these cars were new). The closest I know of was a guy up the road from me had a HSV Coupe4 with a 383ci stroker with heads and cam that made 200 rwhp @ all 4 wheels. Built and tuned by Sam's Performance.

He ended up going 402 ci turbo from memory and straight into the low 10s in 100% street trim and weight was well over 2 tonnes. It moved on the street, I can attest to that personally... He sold the car a long time ago with an LS3 in it.
​​​​
There was also a guy on the LS1 Australia forums with a HSV Coupe4 that had a Higgins built 383 stroker package and was tuned by HPF,

Higgins heads
224/228 Cam
Harrop Hurricane 8tb manifold
Full exhaust system

Made around 215 rwhp @ 4 wheels. So, the manifold probably gave it a bit over the other Coupe4..

So comparing to these AWD cars on our conservative Aussie dyno, to double the 383 ci power @ 4 wheels with your mods in a 346 ci, I'm not sure will happen but best of luck.

Shtstr

I've actually taken the vy adventra driveline and shoe horned it into a LX hatchback torana.
there is a few adventra cars in the 350awd hp range now with modern heads and cams that i know of.
I know I'm stretching the friendship big time to get to my target hp at all 4 wheels.
The closer to 600hp at the cratheir can get the better the chance of hitting 400 at all 4 wheels.
The bottom end package I have is capable of getting there. It's just cylinder heads that will hold it back for now i think.

Pulse Red

Oh yeah, I have no doubt that there's been some improvement in cam and head tech since those days that delivers improved results. Although, I personally feel a lot of the bigger numbers nowadays are more related to the dyno itself... The real measure is MPH... A dyno is still a tuning tool to me, and it can be made to tell you anything you want really, but that's a different type of thread, LOL.

NSFW

FWIW my Corvette made 450 on one dyno and 475 on another with a slightly larger cam (232/234 @ 112), Fast 102 manifold, LS2 throttle body, long tube headers, 3" exhaust, and mysteriously ported stock heads with "Leroy" stamped on them (I'm the third owner, so that's all I know). With an AWD system I'm guessing that would have been around 400whp, maybe a little more depending on the dyno. So this goal seems very achievable to me.

The only drawback to that cam is that it wasn't fully alive until 4000 RPM. Still a fun setup with a 7k rev limit though.

Shtstr

The cam I've gone with is more suited to street than all out hp as it starts at 1900rpm and runs through to 7000rpm With a huge wide torque curve to pull like a train all the way through the rev range.
It helps build dynamic compression ratio for low rpm torque.
Couple that with the 11.3 to 11.45 to 1 static comprescompressionit will preform quite well.
the Auto driveline in the adventra has been said to drain over 30% of hp out of the engine. That's why i have to get closer to 600hp to achieve my target hp

Pulse Red

The issue the OP may have is that as he is in Australia, it will depend on whose dyno he runs it on. For example, a similar combo to yours would usually make low 400s on the vast majority of Aussie dyno. Yet, these cars when well set up, can still run 10s, I've seen it, so clearly can back up the specs. It's not intended to be an insult, just a difference between countries. Still, you never know. Will be interesting to see the OP results when he gets his car together.

Shtstr

What you are saying is so true about the dyno difference between Australia and the ones in the USA.
Australian dynos read lower than USA dynos across the board from all reports and sources that I know of.
so something that makes 400 what in Australia will normally make 440 or higher on a USA dyno I believe.

G Atsma

The only true measure of power is how it goes when the rubber hits the road. You get numbers from doing that, which are non-refutable.
Dyno numbers are only good when comparing to numbers from the same dyno, preferably under identical atmospheric conditions.
All other bets are off.

Pulse Red

Yes, a lot of 480 rwhp 5.7 setups in the US would be maximum 430 rwhp range here. Similar modifications/ setups, weight etc run basically the same ET and MPH but the dyno numbers are consistently very different. You get guys disappointed in Australia as they look at US websites, social media, etc and build the same setup as the US cars but get vastly lower numbers on the dyno here. Especially for those chasing that magic 500 rwhp number, It can be a real shock!

However, there's often differences in Dyno results between shops here too. I've experienced that. No change, just drive to a different dyno and the car produces quite a different result. I even had that happen when the shop I use moved from a 2WD to 4WD dyno. Thus, I don't worry about dyno figures like many other do. It's how the car performs that matters.

NSFW

No offense taken at all, but it's starting to sound to me like he's going to want more cam.
If my setup with RWD means low 400s, then another 10% drivetrain loss sounds like high 300s.

Pulse Red

I expect you're right. I don't think the recipe changes, you need the normal max effort 346ci list of mods. Top notch tune, really big cam, very nice heads with lots of compression, Fast 102 manifold and big TB, twin 3" exhaust with 1 7/8 headers, etc. I would imagine that's what's needed to get anywhere close to the OPs goals.