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broke in my new motor with Lucas SAE 30 break in oil. 1 oil change with break in oil. Next did 50/50 5w30 Dino and some left over break in oil.
Motor is set up around 0.0020" - 0.0025" mains and 0.0025" to 0.0030" rod bearing clearances iron block. With the weather warming up where I am I know that I now need to get the right oil weight.
The company I work for gets discounts on liquid moly and totalenergy oils.
I can get Lubro-Moly Synthoil High Tech 5W-40
or Total Energy Quartz 9000 5w-40
could also run Total Energy Quartz 7000 10w40
can I run 5w40 with those clearances? the liquid moly states it has the most viscosity cold and hot even compared to the 10w40. or should I just find and run a Dino 10w40?
thanks
I think you’re overthinking it a little. I bet Valvoline Maxlife would suffice. I’d even opt for the high mileage variety. It allegedly has more robust additive package for seals and such.
I prefer oils that are high in ZDDP such as Amsoil Dominator 10W-30
I do to, it's by far one of the best anti wear additives you can have in an oil. Partly why I've been mixing in the a little break in oil. Those oils are just pricey but any euro car spec oil should have some zinc in it and it's not a necessity for our motors
I think you’re overthinking it a little. I bet Valvoline Maxlife would suffice. I’d even opt for the high mileage variety. It allegedly has more robust additive package for seals and such.
what it has is seal swelling additives to prevent leaks in older cars, and additives to prevent engine gunk deposits from being wiped clean which could also cause seal leaks and clog oil pickup tubes and passages.
definitely something I don't want in a fresh 4000mile motor
Freshly rebuilt engine 2021, builder told me to run the break in oil and I used Brad Penn, used his pre-oiler before engine was turned over.
After the first 500 break in miles he said for me to use conventional oil for the next interval.
After that next was Mobil1- 5w 30 which is an annual oil change before the car gets put away for winter, GM recommendation as well. It has ZZDP in it.
what it has is seal swelling additives to prevent leaks in older cars, and additives to prevent engine gunk deposits from being wiped clean which could also cause seal leaks and clog oil pickup tubes and passages.
definitely something I don't want in a fresh 4000mile motor
It won’t swell new seals to where they’re larger than their original size. I doubt it actually “swells” old seals really. At any rate Valvoline says it’s ok to use in low mile motors, and I’ve use it for years in new cars and they’re still not leaking now that they’re no longer new.
Mobil 1 0w-40 here. Plenty of dragstrip runs, 52,000 miles on my built LS7, no oil related problems. Uses MAYBE 1/2 qt between 5,000 mile oil changes. For an average sports car driver, it's all you need.
Mobil 1 0w-40 here. Plenty of dragstrip runs, 52,000 miles on my built LS7, no oil related problems. Uses MAYBE 1/2 qt between 5,000 mile oil changes. For an average sports car driver, it's all you need.
I just got finished changing the oil in my Nissan Titan and that’s what I used this go roud. I hear good tings about the 0w-40’s.
I have to ask…why are you going to a 40w oil? Stick with the 30w with your clearances. Absolutely no need to go 40w.
that's My real question. from my understanding at my clearances I might have to run 10w40. Is 5w40 a middle ground between 5w30? I know oil viscosity can be a strange thing, and looking at viscosity numbers 5w30 and 5w40 are very close at 40C and 100C. So I'm wondering if I even have to run thicker that's. 0.0020" - 0.0025" mains and 0.0025 - 0.0030" rods. If I don't have to run a 40w I'll just look for a 5w30 with higher zinc content
I have to ask…why are you going to a 40w oil? Stick with the 30w with your clearances. Absolutely no need to go 40w.
I bet the 40w won’t lead to anything breaking though. The engine might be a hair less efficient than it would with a 30w but I bet not by much.
Look at this chart. This is for a ho-hum everyday vehicle and the manufacture says that it can use as thin as a 0w-20 and as thick as a 20-50 depending on the ambient temp. That’s a pretty big spread. I imagine ole boys new motor has a little bit of wiggle room as well. The word on the streets is that the 0w-40 flows well yet is “robust.” The 40w’s are allowed to have more ZDDP than the 30w and lighter oil due to CAFE standards. I believe the 30w’s can only have 800 or so ppm of zddp, and I believe Mobil 1’s 0w40 “European blend” has something like 1100.
that's My real question. from my understanding at my clearances I might have to run 10w40. Is 5w40 a middle ground between 5w30? I know oil viscosity can be a strange thing, and looking at viscosity numbers 5w30 and 5w40 are very close at 40C and 100C. So I'm wondering if I even have to run thicker that's. 0.0020" - 0.0025" mains and 0.0025 - 0.0030" rods. If I don't have to run a 40w I'll just look for a 5w30 with higher zinc content
Go lurk around on bobistheoilguy.com. Those guys take their oil pretty serious over there. Lots of information to be had. That’s where I learned about 40w’s having more zddp than the 30w’s. They also say that Walmart Supertech synthetic is a pretty good oil. These guys send in samples after every change. That being said, the bang for buck on the Supertech isn’t really there anymore.
They’re also fans of the Valvoline maxlife high mileage no matter the mileage. But I think I’d rock the M1 0w-40 if I were you (more zinc). I just switched to it from a 0w-20 and I’m going on a road trip tomorrow. If it blows up I’ll report back.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Feb 9, 2024 at 07:01 PM.
"none of the above"
.
.
.
. 5W-30 full synthetic.
Chevron, Valvoline, Mobil, any of the house branded Warren Distribution sold at Oreillys, Walmart, Amazon..... doesnt matter much legit DEXOS rated 5W-30 is good
Chevron, Valvoline, Mobil, any of the house branded Warren Distribution sold at Oreillys, Walmart, Amazon..... doesnt matter much legit DEXOS rated 5W-30 is good
Couldn't have said it better myself.
My personal juice of choice is Mobil1 5W-30 or 5W-20, depending on whether it's gonna be summer or winter before I change it next, respectively. If it's summer and I think I'm REALLY gonna be beating on it, like towing or something, I'll step all the way up to 10W-30. All the rest of that is just noise and distraction. You can get it in ANY town ANYWHERE that has a Wally World, or even most truck stops beside the freeway, and it's ,.. entirely adequate.
One thing to remember about oil is, the wider the range between the W (cold) and the other (hot) #, the less stable it is, the less oil it has in it and the more addiditves instead, and the shorter it will last. 0W-40 is a worse choice than 5W-30 if for no other reason than that.
Sometimes "perfect" or "best" is the enemy of "get it EFFFFFING done". Of all the things that's gonna make or break your build, the brand and weight of the oil is REAL LOW on the list. Barring a complete screwup of some sort, like straight 50 or something royally stoooopid like that, of course.
"none of the above"
.
.
.
. 5W-30 full synthetic.
Chevron, Valvoline, Mobil, any of the house branded Warren Distribution sold at Oreillys, Walmart, Amazon..... doesnt matter much legit DEXOS rated 5W-30 is good
Originally Posted by RB04Av
Couldn't have said it better myself.
My personal juice of choice is Mobil1 5W-30 or 5W-20, depending on whether it's gonna be summer or winter before I change it next, respectively. If it's summer and I think I'm REALLY gonna be beating on it, like towing or something, I'll step all the way up to 10W-30. All the rest of that is just noise and distraction. You can get it in ANY town ANYWHERE that has a Wally World, or even most truck stops beside the freeway, and it's ,.. entirely adequate.
One thing to remember about oil is, the wider the range between the W (cold) and the other (hot) #, the less stable it is, the less oil it has in it and the more addiditves instead, and the shorter it will last. 0W-40 is a worse choice than 5W-30 if for no other reason than that.
Sometimes "perfect" or "best" is the enemy of "get it EFFFFFING done". Of all the things that's gonna make or break your build, the brand and weight of the oil is REAL LOW on the list. Barring a complete screwup of some sort, like straight 50 or something royally stoooopid like that, of course.
I pretty much agree with all of the above. Speaking of 50wt, GM recommends 15w50 when tracking an ‘18 ZL1. Like a thicker condom I guess.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Feb 10, 2024 at 07:30 AM.
I bet the 40w won’t lead to anything breaking though. The engine might be a hair less efficient than it would with a 30w but I bet not by much.
Look at this chart. This is for a ho-hum everyday vehicle and the manufacture says that it can use as thin as a 0w-20 and as thick as a 20-50 depending on the ambient temp. That’s a pretty big spread. I imagine ole boys new motor has a little bit of wiggle room as well. The word on the streets is that the 0w-40 flows well yet is “robust.” The 40w’s are allowed to have more ZDDP than the 30w and lighter oil due to CAFE standards. I believe the 30w’s can only have 800 or so ppm of zddp, and I believe Mobil 1’s 0w40 “European blend” has something like 1100.
No, 40w definitely won’t break anything. It might quiet lifters some, if anything on the positive. The cons are a less efficient engine and reduced mileage. Not exceedingly of course, but nonetheless it’s measurable. If the engine had sufficient pressure with 30w oil, there’s zero reason to go to a 40w oil unless of course this is a super hard working tow rig, or maybe it’s a boost build that gets blasted often. Outside ambient temps have no bearing on oil weight at running temp. Zero. If your in a colder climate, then a 0w-30 or a 0w-40 is recommended in the winter. Other than that, a 5w-30 is recommended for the LS engine in 99% of builds.
well, I guess that solves it for me. 0w40 5w30 or 5w40 really not gonna make much of a difference (which make sense when I look at the TDS for the oil weights) and the most important thing being the high ZDDP. so I'm probably gonna run shell rotella t6 5w40, 5w30, or 0w40 since it's like 10$ cad per liter of synthetic which is a steal. thanks for all the help everyone. probably just grab myself good old 5w30
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Oil viscosity? 
