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Before you go out and buy parts I would do the necessary homework about the car and parts that will be needed to swap a LS engine, probably a forum that you can ask questions to others that have done a similar swap, BRZ being a Subaru? Don't forget the transmission info as well.
I did a LS swap in my 1st gen Camaro and it required some of these parts as an example. Engine mounts, engine, oil pan, transmission mount, transmission, accessory drive system, ECM and wiring, fuel system, radiator cooling to name a few plus a bunch of other small stuff. Go to this website to gain some valuable info on the LS engine differences and products, I used their accessory drive pieces that worked out to be perfect for me, LS1 spacing with no air cond. A local auto supply place or Rockauto can help you with the parts like alternator, starter, water pump, tension pullies, belts. https://www.ictbillet.com/swap-guide/ls-swap-guide.html
You could call these guys and ask about the oil pan fitting into your car, they specialize in oiling systems. https://www.improvedracing.com/
You can do it cheap but do it once and do it right to save you the hassles down the road.
Yes sir, and thanks for the advice, and I have been doing extensive research around different forums and asking friends etc, I am still not done with the list of parts I will need down to every specific part numbers, but I have a general idea that using the ICT Billet adaptor kit for the CD009 combined with some other parts from other companies is probably the most cost effective way to swap a LS into a BRZ. would you check my list and see if its going to work and please do let me know if I'm missing anything (this is mainly for the transmission to the BRZ and also adapting to the LS engine):
9. Clutch line idk which one to use, didn't research that part yet, I don't want to buy sikky clutch line for the T56 because they are kinda pricey and there is no option other than the green color.
10. ( possible shifter relocation bracket, idk if I will need or or not just yet, will have to measure the BRZ or FRS's original FA20 Engine's transmission's mating surface on the bell housing to the shifter's distance, and compare that data to the CD009/CD00A's bell housing's mating surface distance to the shifter location when the CD009 is adapted to a T56 bellhousing via ICT Billet adaptor, so idk if I will need a shifter relocation kit or not just yet, because I can't find the data on that distance on the internet anywhere so far. Here is a picture of what I am talking about for reference ) The distance of A is what I need to find out about the stock FA20 engine's own OEM transmission. And also I need to find out whats the distance A for the CD009/CD00A transmission when the CD transmission is connected to a T56 bellhousing via ICT Billet adapter, then I can determine whether I need shifter relocation kit or not.
(This graph is only for reference, I am not using T56 transmission)
11. Awaiting suggestions on what Master Cylinders to use, again I know Sikky makes good products but my budget suggests otherwise, is there any cheap way to relocate a clutch master cylinder reservoir so it clears and allows the LS engine to sit as far back as possible? I saw a post thread someone was using a Tilton universal master cylinder, but it requires an adapter plate so he made it himself. I can't fabricate things myself so if there is any OEM solution, if anyone sees this post and knows about any master cylinder from other cars that are very compact and fits in the GT86/BRZ/FRS please let me know.
That is about it for what I can come up with, please do give me some suggestions on the missing ones that I haven't found yet... Any constructive criticism is welcome.
Great build you have going here, but let’s keep this on topic please. This is a discussion about the L33 engine. We have a Conversions And Swaps sub-forum that would be perfect for your discussion about the other parts of this build.
Great build you have going here, but let’s keep this on topic please. This is a discussion about the L33 engine. We have a Conversions And Swaps sub-forum that would be perfect for your discussion about the other parts of this build.
Well I'm not exactly building it right now, I am currently just laying down the plan to see if the internet's general consensus agrees with this setup I've listed, or can something be changed to achieve a cheaper cost but same result as the goal needs etc etc. And I probably won't start within 1-2 months just yet. but its always ok to plan it out ahead of time tho imo.
We will see where this goes. Due to my financial situations this build could be a 1 - 2 years at max who knows.
But yeah sorry I should have asked this in a different post.
Well my idea is to swap this engine into a light weight chassis, and since Im not a drag race guy I don't care about gaining or losing power and torque at lower RPMs,.
Since you’re not drag racing you’d probably want a little more low end than high end unless you drive wide open throttle everywhere you go. I’m not saying to build a stump puller but you don’t want it to be a dog everywhere except 7k rpm.
Since you’re not drag racing you’d probably want a little more low end than high end unless you drive wide open throttle everywhere you go. I’m not saying to build a stump puller but you don’t want it to be a dog everywhere except 7k rpm.
Some twenty years ago or so I had a car with a 4 cylinder that redlined at something like 7,500. However it didn’t start making any power until 4k rpm or a little over (VVT), and it took forever to get to that 4k rpm.
I know this is an apples to orange is comparison but the moral of the story is a narrow power band that occurred way up in the RPM’s was kind of lame. For a street car look for a wide power band and power “under the curve.”
Some twenty years ago or so I had a car with a 4 cylinder that redlined at something like 7,500. However it didn’t start making any power until 4k rpm or a little over (VVT), and it took forever to get to that 4k rpm.
I know this is an apples to orange is comparison but the moral of the story is a narrow power band that occurred way up in the RPM’s was kind of lame. For a street car look for a wide power band and power “under the curve.”
I see what you mean, but for my "budget build" well at least for the beginning, if the motor is running well, I have no reason to open it up as many have told me, I was wondering, if the LS9 cam gives it such a bad low end torque curve, what other cams from an OEM LS are good to do a direct drop in meaning doing it without removing heads from the block, that also gives it a good decent power and torque curve?
The stock L33 cam is 193/193, .482/.482, 116 LSA
A slight upgrade would be the LQ9/late LQ4 cam which is 196/201, .467/.479, 116 LSA. Still made, but pricey.
A bigger stock cam would be the LS6 cam which is 204/218, .555/.551, 117.5 LSA. This one is out of production.
Go to the Scoggin Dickey Performance site and check out their LS cams.
Their milder ones are priced right with their "Hot Truck Torque" (205/210, .550/.525, 115 LSA) going for $249.99.
You will need LS3/6 valve springs for this cam.
The stock L33 cam is 193/193, .482/.482, 116 LSA
A slight upgrade would be the LQ9/late LQ4 cam which is 196/201, .467/.479, 116 LSA. Still made, but pricey.
A bigger stock cam would be the LS6 cam which is 204/218, .555/.551, 117.5 LSA. This one is out of production.
Go to the Scoggin Dickey Performance site and check out their LS cams.
Their milder ones are priced right with their "Hot Truck Torque" (205/210, .550/.525, 115 LSA) going for $249.99.
You will need LS3/6 valve springs for this cam.
Nice, thanks. As long as the option is cheap and does not require the stock pushrods and lifters to be changed at all, I am down to do that.
I see what you mean, but for my "budget build" well at least for the beginning, if the motor is running well, I have no reason to open it up as many have told me, I was wondering, if the LS9 cam gives it such a bad low end torque curve, what other cams from an OEM LS are good to do a direct drop in meaning doing it without removing heads from the block, that also gives it a good decent power and torque curve?
I’m new to the LS platform as well so I can’t really give any specific cam recommendations. But if it were me I think I’d look for something with an advertised “operating range” of something like 3k to 6,500 or there in that range. After reading this guys review on the LS6 cam I personally would take a pass on it if I was building a street car. It looks like it takes the power too long come on for my taste. I think you’d be getting pretty close to 100 mph in 3rd gear by 4,500 rpm. Maybe just 90 or so but still, it’d stink a little to just start to “pull” at that speed. If you’re doing stop light to stop light the distance between better be pretty decent. The BRZ etc is light though so I guess really any sort of 350 some odd horsepower combo ought to cut the mustard. Traction might funny. Short wheel base and IRS.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Apr 6, 2024 at 07:37 AM.
I’m new to the LS platform as well so I can’t really give any specific cam recommendations. But if it were me I think I’d look for something with an advertised “operating range” of something like 3k to 6,500 or there in that range. After reading this guys review on the LS6 cam I personally would take a pass on it if I was building a street car. It looks like it takes the power too long come on for my taste. I think you’d be getting pretty close to 100 mph in 3rd gear by 4,500 rpm. Maybe just 90 or so but still, it’d stink a little to just start to “pull” at that speed. If you’re doing stop light to stop light the distance between better be pretty decent. The BRZ etc is light though so I guess really any sort of 350 some odd horsepower combo ought to cut the mustard. Traction might funny. Short wheel base and IRS.
Thanks for the suggestion, so LS6 cam is the way to go then? As long as I can drop in the cam without removing the heads from the block? I now have more questions about the compatibility between L33 OEM lifters, pushrods and springs with the LS6 cam lol, but for real tho can you drop in an OEM LS6 cam into a stock L33 and be done with it? or do you need to change springs and other stuff tho?
You might get away without changing springs, but do you really know if the springs have reached the end of their life or not? Do you want to risk dropping a valve? New LS6 springs are under $70, I think. Why cheap out? I wouldn't use the LS6 cam either. Too wide of an LSA. There are far better aftermarket cams that will boost power everywhere. The work involved in cam swapping, to me, means I'm going to make significant changes to my cam or it's kind of a wasted effort. Just be really honest with yourself about your goals and choose wisely.
Thanks for the suggestion, so LS6 cam is the way to go then? As long as I can drop in the cam without removing the heads from the block? I now have more questions about the compatibility between L33 OEM lifters, pushrods and springs with the LS6 cam lol, but for real tho can you drop in an OEM LS6 cam into a stock L33 and be done with it? or do you need to change springs and other stuff tho?
Ha no. I was saying I would NOT go with an LS6 cam due to the fact that it appears to mainly pickup power in the upper RPM’s. I wouldn’t go with any cam that “comes alive” up top only. Also any cam that is worth having will require upgraded valve springs. If valvetrain upgrades aren’t in the budget then you’d probably be better off with the stock cam. Really though I don’t think there’s a way to do any motor swap on a “shoe string budget.” So if valve springs are “expensive” then a motor swap might be a little out of reach. If you were to put an old stock GM V8 in you’d essentially have spent a lot of money for maybe 150 horsepower over what comes in the BRZ. It seems like a turbo kit on the stock BRZ would be the cheaper route to obtain the same results. If I didn’t have the funds to build up the V8 then I think I’d go another route.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; Apr 7, 2024 at 11:32 AM.
kyo7- Go for one of Scoggin-Dickey's cams and a set of LS3/6 valve springs. It will be more responsive than the LS6 cam.
You need a solid plan? Here you are.
kyo7- Go for one of Scoggin-Dickey's cams and a set of LS3/6 valve springs. It will be more responsive than the LS6 cam.
You need a solid plan? Here you are.
Ha no. I was saying I would NOT go with an LS6 cam due to the fact that it appears to mainly pickup power in the upper RPM’s. I wouldn’t go with any cam that “comes alive” up top only. Also any cam that is worth having will require upgraded valve springs. If valvetrain upgrades aren’t in the budget then you’d probably be better off with the stock cam. Really though I don’t think there’s a way to do any motor swap on a “shoe string budget.” So if valve springs are “expensive” then a motor swap might be a little out of reach. If you were to put an old stock GM V8 in you’d essentially have spent a lot of money for maybe 150 horsepower over what comes in the BRZ. It seems like a turbo kit on the stock BRZ would be the cheaper route to obtain the same results. If I didn’t have the funds to build up the V8 then I think I’d go another route.
Sorry I misread that one before, yeah I see what you mean tho, but on a very tight budget, would it be a good idea to just simply refresh the motor and accessories to make them "swap ready", and keep it pretty much stock except for the car intake manifold and fuel rails etc as well as a trunnion upgrade over the stock rocker arms to have a piece of mind for the future. And then swap to a better aftermarket cam kit with springs etc when the time comes after the engine conversion is done?
The term “very strict budget” concerns me here. At the end of this endeavor, a tune will be necessary, and unless you self tune, your gonna end up spending $700ish for a quality dyno tune that will compliment what you’ve done and maximize power with the best driving manners. A basic mail order tune will get it running yes, but your leaving power, and driveability on the table. Just something else to consider…
The term “very strict budget” concerns me here. At the end of this endeavor, a tune will be necessary, and unless you self tune, your gonna end up spending $700ish for a quality dyno tune that will compliment what you’ve done and maximize power with the best driving manners. A basic mail order tune will get it running yes, but your leaving power, and driveability on the table. Just something else to consider…
Don't worry tuning is a must and I understand that very well. Fortunately I was told the LS based engines' OEM ECU's that are very tunable. And of course I would find a reputable tuner nearby when the project reaches that step.
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