Looking to buy pistons for NA and occasional nitrous
07-10-2024, 02:58 PM
#1
Looking to buy pistons for NA and occasional nitrous What pistons should I buy for my N/A Fbody Camaro that will be good for a little bit of nitros in the future?
I currently have a LS1 with ls6 intake manifold, longtube headers, TSP 228R Cam .550 .550. Stock Bore size, with a BTR head gasket, 243 heads and 7.425length pushrods .On 93 octane
I originally bought 7cc dished pistons from summit racing and cally 6.125 Rods bc the summit rods were out of stock. I was told it would be 9.7:1 compression ratio. I was told this combo would be good for boost but I’m changing my plan and would like to go nitros.
the other option I was recommend was
-3cc dome with 6.098" rod (11:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock bore: SUM-PR368983
And was told this would be better for N/A
will the -3cc be good for nitros aswell? What should I buy. I’m ready to return what I bought and get something else.
Also what size should I gap my rings to, I don’t plan on going over a 200 shot. But I do not even have a nos kit yet and still want it to be okay for regular N/A use.
(Also side note I still have a fully stock fuel system) how much power can I milk out of the stock fuel pump and injectors? And what should I buy when I do buy a nitros kit if I need it?
I currently have a LS1 with ls6 intake manifold, longtube headers, TSP 228R Cam .550 .550. Stock Bore size, with a BTR head gasket, 243 heads and 7.425length pushrods .On 93 octane
I originally bought 7cc dished pistons from summit racing and cally 6.125 Rods bc the summit rods were out of stock. I was told it would be 9.7:1 compression ratio. I was told this combo would be good for boost but I’m changing my plan and would like to go nitros.
the other option I was recommend was
-3cc dome with 6.098" rod (11:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock bore: SUM-PR368983
And was told this would be better for N/A
will the -3cc be good for nitros aswell? What should I buy. I’m ready to return what I bought and get something else.
Also what size should I gap my rings to, I don’t plan on going over a 200 shot. But I do not even have a nos kit yet and still want it to be okay for regular N/A use.
(Also side note I still have a fully stock fuel system) how much power can I milk out of the stock fuel pump and injectors? And what should I buy when I do buy a nitros kit if I need it?
Last edited by LSX.Tom; 07-11-2024 at 01:20 PM.
07-11-2024, 01:18 PM
#2
Don’t really need pistons if spraying 200 or under. Run a good separate fuel system of the N20 wet side (I like methanol). Switch to E85 if its an option over 93 and just run what you have. It keeps the pistons cool enough in most circumstances you don't even need to gap them.
Then build a separate motor on the side for when the motor lets go or you want to go quicker. The piston manufacturer will tell u what to gap the rings at as it depends what the pistons made of. .028 on the factory piston is super common. Lots of guys spraying 200 on the factory bottom ends.
Then build a separate motor on the side for when the motor lets go or you want to go quicker. The piston manufacturer will tell u what to gap the rings at as it depends what the pistons made of. .028 on the factory piston is super common. Lots of guys spraying 200 on the factory bottom ends.
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Y2K_Frenzy (07-11-2024)
07-11-2024, 01:33 PM
#3
Don’t really need pistons if spraying 200 or under. Run a good separate fuel system of the N20 wet side (I like methanol). Switch to E85 if its an option over 93 and just run what you have. It keeps the pistons cool enough in most circumstances you don't even need to gap them.
Then build a separate motor on the side for when the motor lets go or you want to go quicker. The piston manufacturer will tell u what to gap the rings at as it depends what the pistons made of. .028 on the factory piston is super common. Lots of guys spraying 200 on the factory bottom ends.
Then build a separate motor on the side for when the motor lets go or you want to go quicker. The piston manufacturer will tell u what to gap the rings at as it depends what the pistons made of. .028 on the factory piston is super common. Lots of guys spraying 200 on the factory bottom ends.
07-11-2024, 01:55 PM
#4
I hear ya. If its in the budget and you have the time, go for it.
But if a factory rod piston motor is hurt spraying sub 200… its likely not a mechanical part failure that better parts will “fix”. It’s usually an issue with the tune. Which will damage “good parts” just as easily as OEM parts. The major difference being that when the built motor lets go it’s much more painful time/money wise.
Also in general, the LS1 is a poor platform for a nitrous build anyway. It is a pretty weak block with thin sleeves. If you want something reliable that you only have to build once… that’s not the block to start with. If you have a healthy LS1 you might consider selling it to the “swap guys”. Then get a decent 4” bore block or even a 5.3 alum block with the Siamese bores. They are MUCH stronger blocks.
But if a factory rod piston motor is hurt spraying sub 200… its likely not a mechanical part failure that better parts will “fix”. It’s usually an issue with the tune. Which will damage “good parts” just as easily as OEM parts. The major difference being that when the built motor lets go it’s much more painful time/money wise.
Also in general, the LS1 is a poor platform for a nitrous build anyway. It is a pretty weak block with thin sleeves. If you want something reliable that you only have to build once… that’s not the block to start with. If you have a healthy LS1 you might consider selling it to the “swap guys”. Then get a decent 4” bore block or even a 5.3 alum block with the Siamese bores. They are MUCH stronger blocks.
07-11-2024, 05:41 PM
#5
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Tune is Uber important when playing with nitrous.