try cleaning the face of the screw off first. They are zinc plated. The weld wont stick to good to the coating.

 

move been using 1200 grit sandpaper on the screw and the nut, maybe I’m using to high of a grit

 

use something coarse like 150 grit. Your not saving that junk any way.

 

noted, what do I do if I turn the heat up all the way and god forbid this **** still doesn’t budge?

 

Seek Professional assistance is what I would recommend, but if you feel comfortable then drill the head off first and then drill and use an extractor. the friction is what holding it to the plate . by drilling the head off you will lessen that force. it might budge after that but if it doesn't then go with an extractor method and take your time.

You might try turning the letters up more and see if works any better to get it to stick.

Try a C on the heat and 4 or 5 on the wire side. Should sound like sizzling bacon when you get a good weld with proper heat and wire feed. If its popping real slow you don't have enough wire. If the weld is not sticking, it's not hot enough. As you increase the heat you will need to feed the wire a little faster.

Your A setting is like thin Sheetmetal. The more you go up the thicker you can weld. I believe the highest setting will weld 3/16 steel on the highest letter. Let me see what I can find on it.

 

Are you running wire with shielding gas or flux core?

I found this posted some where.

A = 17.5V, B = 19.0V, C = 20.7V, D = 22.5V, E = 27.9V

 

I’m not to familiar with welding terminology but I believe im running a flux core on this welder I’m using. On my other welder I have an argon tank on the back.

 

Made about 3-4 passes with the high heat setting,
I turned the heat up to D the highest it’ll go, adjusted the wire speed. Used HF nuts, grade 8 nuts. Pushed the nut as flush as I could with the screw surface. Sanded both surfaces with a 150 grit sandpaper. Let the welds cool down. As soon as I put an ounce of torque on the ratchet the welds give loose like butter. Is there something I’m missing???? This is astonishing to me, burnt through 15 nuts so far.

 

I don't know much about Flux core wire, but I suspect that might be the issue. You mentioned haveing another welder that uses argon mix gas. If you can, try that. Other wise you will have to drill the head off first. Then use an extractor.

 

Yes, it’s a Lincoln 210HD welder. Never knew how much argon it needs or what the ***** do so I didn’t go fouling with it. I’ll upload some pictures soon.

 

Open the bottle all the way and set the regulator to around 15 CFH. Don't go past 20 CFH.

 

I don’t have the bigger outlet for this kind of plug anywhere.

 

Have you tried drilling into the heads of the bolts some and then welding a washer first before welding the nut on? Sometimes that will give you the bite you'll need to remove them. BTW don't let it cool completely down before trying to remove the fasteners and make sure the surfaces are clean bare metal before welding them together..Also it might be a good idea to try a smaller nut so you can weld around the edges more.

 

Drill them out, get the plate off, file the remaining part of the bolt flat then weld a nut to that. I've done that one before and it works.

 

ill give it a shot

 

Probably be enough threads exposed to get the vice grips on them to remove. Soak them overnight with Liquid Wrench before trying to remove.

 

The countersink on the plate is what is holding the head of that screw in. Pretty much mechanical friction that you won't overcome with a small bit given how tight they are. Drill them out and get the plate off it's just a threaded piece of metal in a hole. I said weld a nut to it because it may not be long enough to grab with vice grips or something like that, but in theory there should be very little resistance. Even less when you give it some heat to break it loose.

 

If you must resort to drilling, I'd try buying a left hand helix/cutting drill bit. Grainger has them. Lots of industrial supply houses have them. There's a good chance when the bit bites into the steel head it can twist the screw right out, and you're done. If not, if you're going to drill the heads off anyway, the LH bit will do that, too. I'd still double check whether or not those screws are Loctited. Are you 100% certain they aren't? The 4 factory flatheads come with a spot of blue Loctite on them. Most guys recommend using 242 removable on them to ensure they don't back out....

 

I looked at the treads on the two screws that came out and not a drop of loctite on them, the threads are in good condition too they aren't stripped or course threaded and stuck. very interesting situation i've found myself in.

 

Left hand bits are a good call, I've used them.