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That is why I said what I said above, it's oil soaked so you have to take that into account. I've welded cast aluminum and that's even worse.
I suggested the weld because I have the capability, most don't for this here. This one is tricky.
I'm thinking my idea if a plug might be the trick. but again that's if it's even needed. As I've posted, block it smooth and see if it even leaks.
The photo i posted not be the best angles but the divot is very small. like small enough as in i could use a syringe to squirt a little bit of silicone and that would be enough (example). I think ill just clean it as best as possible and do the silicone method. ill let you all know how it goes.
I think ill just clean it as best as possible and do the silicone method. ill let you all know how it goes.
I'm telling you anaerobic sealant is the way to go in this situation.
Any excess silicone (even excess that you can't see, under the plate) will squeeze out and eventually end up in the crankcase/ oiling system.
Excess anaerobic sealant will just wash away in the first few minutes of engine operation, leaving the hardened material between the plate and the block.
It's really great stuff, when used for sealing applications where there aren't large gaps.
I'm telling you anaerobic sealant is the way to go in this situation.
Any excess silicone (even excess that you can't see, under the plate) will squeeze out and eventually end up in the crankcase/ oiling system.
Excess anaerobic sealant will just wash away in the first few minutes of engine operation, leaving the hardened material between the plate and the block.
It's really great stuff, when used for sealing applications where there aren't large gaps.
is this the stuff to get or is there a specific brand I should use?
Tell us you didn't read anything in this thread without telling us....
People have used various JB Weld epoxy type products to patch holes in engine blocks for decades. I've used the epoxy putty products on a muffler and that gets fairly warm.
I'm telling you anaerobic sealant is the way to go in this situation.
Any excess silicone (even excess that you can't see, under the plate) will squeeze out and eventually end up in the crankcase/ oiling system.
Excess anaerobic sealant will just wash away in the first few minutes of engine operation, leaving the hardened material between the plate and the block.
It's really great stuff, when used for sealing applications where there aren't large gaps.
picked up some sealant and cleaned the area with brake cleaner for about a dozen passes. Put some gasket sealer in the gap, couldn’t ask for the sealer to be anymore flush with this gap. Now to let it settle for a few days (which is when I will be able to get to this next) and throw the retaining plate in. But before that I’ll be blasting metal shavings out of the lifter oil ports. Shavings got everywhere when I used the carbide bit to cut the plate. I blasted out shavings around the cam and main bearings. Now just to use the air and I should be on my way.
picked up some sealant and cleaned the area with brake cleaner for about a dozen passes. Put some gasket sealer in the gap, couldn’t ask for the sealer to be anymore flush with this gap. Now to let it settle for a few days (which is when I will be able to get to this next) and throw the retaining plate in. But before that I’ll be blasting metal shavings out of the lifter oil ports. Shavings got everywhere when I used the carbide bit to cut the plate. I blasted out shavings around the cam and main bearings. Now just to use the air and I should be on my way.
WAIT!! Did you use gasket sealer, or the recommended anaerobic sealant? Maybe I'm wrong, but if I was using an anaerobic sealant in this case, I'd have left the plate on. IIRC, anaerobic sealant will only harden in the absence of oxygen. By removing the plate afterwards you may have compromised the fix. Just looking for clarity.....
WAIT!! Did you use gasket sealer, or the recommended anaerobic sealant? Maybe I'm wrong, but if I was using an anaerobic sealant in this case, I'd have left the plate on. IIRC, anaerobic sealant will only harden in the absence of oxygen. By removing the plate afterwards you may have compromised the fix. Just looking for clarity.....
What are you talking about? I put the permatex anaerobic sealant in the gouge. As told I put the sealant in the gouge, let it dry and go on about business. I havent installed the retaining plate yet as im letting it dry. Never heard about putting the plate on with the wet sealant. If it is an issue then ill use a pick and take the sealant off, clean it with brake cleaner, and try again.
What does leave the plate on mean? i haven't put the plate on yet. I was under the impression that i was supposed to let the sealant dry and then put the plate on.
What does leave the plate on mean? i haven't put the plate on yet. I was under the impression that i was supposed to let the sealant dry and then put the plate on.
You're not saying WHAT sealant. You said gasket sealer. Is it anaerobic or conventional?? If it's anaerobic, it won't work correctly unless it has little to no air present. RTV and most gasket sealer require air to cure. Anaerobic is just the opposite. By torquing the plate down, the anaerobic will usually set up within minutes. I'm suspecting you are using anaerobic sealant incorrectly, but I've been wrong before. If using anaerobic sealant install the plate ASAP, and torque it to spec. Id also put a small amount of ultra gray or black silicone around the very outer sealing edge of the plate FIRST. Nothing thick or heavy.Then use the anaerobic sealant in the gouge, and quickly tighten the plate down. That, or as some have suggested, use the anaerobic sealant in the gouge AND around the outside sealing edge of the plate....
Last edited by grinder11; Sep 23, 2024 at 04:54 PM.
You're not saying WHAT sealant. You said gasket sealer. Is it anaerobic or conventional?? If it's anaerobic, it won't work correctly unless it has little to no air present. RTV and most gasket sealer require air to cure. Anaerobic is just the opposite. By torquing the plate down, the anaerobic will usually set up within minutes. I'm suspecting you are using anaerobic sealant incorrectly, but I've been wrong before. If using anaerobic sealant install the plate ASAP, and torque it to spec. Id also put a small amount of ultra gray or black silicone around the very outer sealing edge of the plate FIRST. Nothing thick or heavy.Then use the anaerobic sealant in the gouge, and quickly tighten the plate down. That, or as some have suggested, use the anaerobic sealant in the gouge AND around the outside sealing edge of the plate....
yes I am using anaerobic sealant. Got it. After I clean the motor with air I’ll throw the plate on and continue my rebuild. Thank you.
Welding that spot will require machine work to get it back to correct…if the weld even holds. If this were a clients block in my shop, I’d find another block…if it were MINE, I’d clean the area well with brake parts cleaner a couple times. Id take a dab of ultra grey silicone and wipe it in the area, then after 15 minutes I’d make certain it was smooth. Let it dry overnight, and go on about my business. It will be fine. The outer edge of the retainer plate gasket will cover the damage…from what I see in the pics anyway. It’s tough to diagnose stuff over the interwebz.
I used an anerobic sealant behind the plate. Let it dry for four hours before I went back to work on the motor. Is that enough drying time or will oil carry the sealant away in the oil? Or is that sealant under the gasket separated from the oil?
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