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Wow that much lift I’d think would require fly cutting. After my PTV event which was due to my ignorance of not having quite enough seat pressure, I got kind of afraid of bigger lift cams.
The cam I was running and that was a BTR
stage 3 231/242 617/.592. It made 400 wheel with headers and an ls6 intake on 706 heads.
I now have 243’s with 3 way valve job bowls cut and figure 400 wheel is what it should make with the smaller cam. But I might just run that old stage 3 cam now that we talking.
BTR has the top notch customer service. I’ve got quite a lot of little things from them. I’m heavily leaning toward the GM performance lifters from them. I’d rather buy from them than Summit when the price is the same just cuz they feel more like the local little guy compared to big brand summit.
Wow that much lift I’d think would require fly cutting. After my PTV event which was due to my ignorance of not having quite enough seat pressure, I got kind of afraid of bigger lift cams.
The cam I was running and that was a BTR
stage 3 231/242 617/.592. It made 400 wheel with headers and an ls6 intake on 706 heads.
I now have 243’s with 3 way valve job bowls cut and figure 400 wheel is what it should make with the smaller cam. But I might just run that old stage 3 cam now that we talking.
BTR has the top notch customer service. I’ve got quite a lot of little things from them. I’m heavily leaning toward the GM performance lifters from them. I’d rather buy from them than Summit when the price is the same just cuz they feel more like the local little guy compared to big brand summit.
100% run that cam! Specs are perfect for your needs. And I also share your concern about lift that high with the current btr stage cams. Most are .636 and I've read many times that stock rockers have problems running over .625 lift.
I hear your point about summit vs btr. I will say that the summit cam guys monitor their account on here and they are awesome. Super helpful and answer any questions we have
another subject but I don't use those. I'm using ws6store "max effort" rockers. I don't like bronze bushings even though everyone else uses them. Popular opinion doesn't mean it's the best thing to do. There are a million more stock unmodified rockers in the wild than bronze bushed rockers and they've both had failures/issues. The percentage of stockers with failures is probably smaller than any others, but because it has happened and was posted on the internet they are all junk LOL.
Also, personal experience is more valuable than reading the internet. Not everything on the internet is factual and info from people with something to sell I always take with a grain of salt.
On the subject of ptv duration has a lot more to do with that than lift and if you've actually done these types of builds you would know that. Reminds me of the guy on here making youtube videos and sharing tuning advice when he had never actually tuned the type of combinations he was educating others how to do. He based everything on theory and what he learned on the internet, but there was some incorrect information because in the real world of tuning some of those theories didn't work the way he thought they did.
so they’re two really cool race tracks where I live. They’re about 2 miles long and very windy. There’s actually four of them, but those two are within 30 minutes of my house. So I do intend on tracking it a bit. I will also drive it around town to the car shows, etc. just flexing on people being an ******* lol so yeah I will drive it at 6500 RPMs. I’m hard on cars. I might need to revamp my bill.
Ok different ball game then I'd buy link bar johnsons for your useage.
Great advice from the community. @BCNUL8R nailed it about PTV being more related to cam timing/duration than it is to lift. Obviously, lift plays a factor, but it's more so the cam timing that causes PTV issues.
Sounds like a cool build you're working on here. For lifters, we'd either go with our SUM-HTLSKIT2 that comes with the same lifters you'd get from GM or the SUM-HTLSKIT3 that comes with the Morel 7717 drop-ins. Now, if this was something that was a dedicated track car and would truly see 6500+ all day then yes we'd go with some link bar lifters like @Che70velle mentioned.
As for the cam, the SS2 cams have their place, but we think there's room to do better. If you're looking for a recommendation, we’d want to know more about your setup and goals.
Things like:
What BMW chassis? (E36, E46, etc.)
What 6.0 is it? Does it have dish or flat-top pistons?
Rear gear ratio?
Transmission?
Do you prioritize drivability, performance, or sound?
Percentage of street use vs. track time?
We carry a range of manufacturers in addition to our 100% made-in-the-USA Pro LS lineup. BTR and Cam Motion are two of the most popular outside our own cams. We’re always going to stand behind our cams, but if something else we carry is a better fit for your combo, we won’t hesitate to recommend it. If it’s on our site and it works for your build, we’re all in. Our goal is simple. We want our customers smiling for miles after their cam swap!
Great advice from the community. @BCNUL8R nailed it about PTV being more related to cam timing/duration than it is to lift. Obviously, lift plays a factor, but it's more so the cam timing that causes PTV issues.
Sounds like a cool build you're working on here. For lifters, we'd either go with our SUM-HTLSKIT2 that comes with the same lifters you'd get from GM or the SUM-HTLSKIT3 that comes with the Morel 7717 drop-ins. Now, if this was something that was a dedicated track car and would truly see 6500+ all day then yes we'd go with some link bar lifters like @Che70velle mentioned.
As for the cam, the SS2 cams have their place, but we think there's room to do better. If you're looking for a recommendation, we’d want to know more about your setup and goals.
Things like:
What BMW chassis? (E36, E46, etc.)
What 6.0 is it? Does it have dish or flat-top pistons?
Rear gear ratio?
Transmission?
Do you prioritize drivability, performance, or sound?
Percentage of street use vs. track time?
We carry a range of manufacturers in addition to our 100% made-in-the-USA Pro LS lineup. BTR and Cam Motion are two of the most popular outside our own cams. We’re always going to stand behind our cams, but if something else we carry is a better fit for your combo, we won’t hesitate to recommend it. If it’s on our site and it works for your build, we’re all in. Our goal is simple. We want our customers smiling for miles after their cam swap!
so I ordered lifter treys on accident from you guys already GM only for me.
Curious what the summit PN is for these lifters SUM-HTLSKIT2
id listen to your advise on cam choice.
dished pistons lq4
car is e36 with cf009
3.91 gears but probably gonna step down to 3.15 due to the cd009 ratios I’ve already had one motor in this car and know how the 3.91s feel , too much for the ce009
I live near several road tracks within 50 miles and many more in an 200 mile radius. Anyway, I will drive to and from the track and drove pretty hard at the track. I will rev it on the highway. I am NOT a drifter but I will get sideways. That said I’m not gonna be competitive either.
I’ve owned several e36 cars over the years including m3’s and have gotten use to being shift at 7k I do run around at 5k did some auto x no road racing yet but that’s next. The car will be a weekend cruiser too. I had 400 wheel on the last build. I’d like to land there maybe 450 lol
I was going to ask that too. A shop near me once commented that they have only ever seen 1 failure of a caddy racing lifter, and if that's the case, the lifter might have not even been to blame.
I was googling ls7 gm performance lifters and they seemed to be about the same price as caddy lifters (or maybe a little cheaper) so I couldn't tell if they were the same thing or if gm performance ls7 lifters just means genuine gm ls7 lifters as opposed to another generic manufacturer.
my take is the caddy lifters are older and were designed for racing. Internal parts are made out of exotic metals that make them lighter. The GM performance are the TRUE la7 lifter from the ls7 motor which has a 7k redline. Personally for $100 more I think caddy lifters are worth it. Last time I looked GM performance were 450 caddie 550
my take is the caddy lifters are older and were designed for racing. Internal parts are made out of exotic metals that make them lighter. The GM performance are the TRUE la7 lifter from the ls7 motor which has a 7k redline. Personally for $100 more I think caddy lifters are worth it. Last time I looked GM performance were 450 caddie 550
yeah I saw the same thing. I never heard them called gm performance ls7 lifters before. But yeah your prices are spot on from what I am seeing. It's weird because I saw some genuine ls7 lifters for much cheaper. It's hard to tell if there's a difference.
yeah I saw the same thing. I never heard them called gm performance ls7 lifters before. But yeah your prices are spot on from what I am seeing. It's weird because I saw some genuine ls7 lifters for much cheaper. It's hard to tell if there's a difference.
I am leaning towards Howard’s cams ls7 USA made and hey have been emailing me back and forth. More than I can say for other companies. I do wanna call summit and chat with them
What rockers are you guys using with your solid rollers and what is the maintenance schedule like on those in a street/strip application?
I used a prw shaft adjustable rockers. After initial break in and playing with them a bit they haven't needed adjusting. I've checked them a time or 2. I set them to 0 lash cold.
To be honest I think if I were to change the cam in my truck I would put solid lifters in it......and it's not a hotrod. Just a 2500hd 6.0 with some bolt ons.
Alot of diesels are solid lifters.....dmax are. It's really nothing to be scared of. Hell there were many flat tapped solids lifters engines from the factory back in the day.
Crower shaft rockers. I haven’t opened the valve cover since they were installed yet. But I don’t have too many miles on it at all. Allegedly you should set and forget for quite a few oil changes.
so I ordered lifter treys on accident from you guys already GM only for me.
Curious what the summit PN is for these lifters SUM-HTLSKIT2
id listen to your advise on cam choice.
dished pistons lq4
car is e36 with cf009
3.91 gears but probably gonna step down to 3.15 due to the cd009 ratios I’ve already had one motor in this car and know how the 3.91s feel , too much for the ce009
I live near several road tracks within 50 miles and many more in an 200 mile radius. Anyway, I will drive to and from the track and drove pretty hard at the track. I will rev it on the highway. I am NOT a drifter but I will get sideways. That said I’m not gonna be competitive either.
I’ve owned several e36 cars over the years including m3’s and have gotten use to being shift at 7k I do run around at 5k did some auto x no road racing yet but that’s next. The car will be a weekend cruiser too. I had 400 wheel on the last build. I’d like to land there maybe 450 lol
Thanks for getting back to us with more info on the combo and goals.
Regarding the lifters in the SUM-HTLSKIT2. That includes the SUM-HT215-16 true Delphi LS7 lifters.
For the cam. We like the SUM-8710R1 that @Abs mentioned previously, which would be similar to the BTR stage 3 that you already have. Since you already have that cam, it's what we'd run. Sounds like that's a V1 BTR stage 3 cam with specs of .617/.592, 231/242, 112+2 with 12.5* of overlap. We like where the valve events end up for a combo like this for spirited driving and track use. You'll want long tubes and a free-flowing exhaust system with 12.5* of overlap. We like your idea of switching the rear gears to 3.15's for the street/track balance with your CD009 transmission. It'll be plenty sporty for rowing through the gears on the track. Then, if you want to get out and just cruise it'll help ya save some fuel if that's a concern. In 6th at 70mph with say a 25" tire, it would be around 600 RPM difference between the two. Where you might run into some unpleasant characteristics would be low-speed driving like in parking lots or a congested city street. With 12.5* of overlap and the 3.15's it wouldn't be happy trying to "lug" the engine. You might just have to drop a gear to get the RPM up.
Your worked over 243's will play nice with the combo. We'd look into some Cometic .040" head gaskets for the added compression bump and reduced quench distance. If the 243's are still 65cc that would put you around 10.3:1 compression with the 6.7cc dished pistons of the LQ4. That would be plenty friendly on 87, or if you wanted to squeeze a bit more out of it and get more aggressive on the timing tables, run better octane.
With the RPM you're looking to run and track use, we'd recommend dual springs like the BTR .660" lift duals. Pushrods are just as important for valvetrain stability and our 11/32 HDR pushrods with the .120" wall is what we'd recommend. Measure for pushrod length before purchasing pushrods.
This should turn out to be an awesome combo that will be a joy to drive on the street as well as those trips to the track to get your need for speed. Let us know if you have any further questions. We'll be happy to help!
Thanks for the advise on the cam and springs. What went wrong with my last build. The springs I use weren’t strong enough for the cam. I didn’t know any better. Super rookie mistake, costing me time and money.
in positive news I got my box from Summit today lol with my lifters in it, lol and my head gaskets.
I thought I was just gonna shove this Elgin cam in and save the BTR cam for my aluminum build that needs some undersizing on the bearings. But my longtime friend( the Ford guy lol ) convince me that my car bearings were bad and needed to be replaced. He’s built many motors. I’ve leaned a lot form him over the years. I kept repeating t what most the LS guys say. Run it! This damn motor ran I drove the totaled truck it was In all winter So when I pulled the block apart, everything looks great, but I damaged one of my mains sadly.
Just an extra week and some plastic gauge I guess. I’d rather have the machine shop set it up tho and should just do rings too since I’m this far in and they crusty AF. Long story short if you’ve got a running motor, don’t ******* pull it apart. Shove the camera in and ******* run it. If you drove it and you know, it ran just ******* run it. Now I’m looking at a full rebuild of a running motor. I could’ve went to the damn wrecking yard months ago and done this.
