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I’m running a 6.0 that ran great when pulled gonna slam a 228/230 .585 with 112lsa cam the
Springs are .625 370lbs / 130lbs
I’d like to shift at 7200 rpm and run 6500 all day
What lifter is suggested ? I figure good ls7 should do me fine so if ls7 is your suggested suggestions on brand so far im leaning toward Howard’s cams 91013 because they said that lifter will do what I want. New trays of course.
im down the rabbit hole of lifter seat height , lifter body height (which I think caused me issues in my last build)
I’m running a 6.0 that ran great when pulled gonna slam a 228/230 .585 with 112lsa cam the
Springs are .625 370lbs / 130lbs
I’d like to shift at 7200 rpm and run 6500 all day
What lifter is suggested ? I figure good ls7 should do me fine so if ls7 is your suggested suggestions on brand so far im leaning toward Howard’s cams 91013 because they said that lifter will do what I want. New trays of course.
im down the rabbit hole of lifter seat height , lifter body height (which I think caused me issues in my last build)
I've always heard great things about morels 7717 lifters. Did you already buy the cam? I feel like there's better options than sloppy stage 2, especially for a truck.
I shift at 7300 with ls7 gm performance lifters. Been doing this in this combo for over 5 years. 232/248 cam with over 600 lift. Not sure if it’s the best option for this rpm but it does work.
I shift at 7300 with ls7 gm performance lifters. Been doing this in this combo for over 5 years. 232/248 cam with over 600 lift. Not sure if it’s the best option for this rpm but it does work.
I've always heard great things about morels 7717 lifters. Did you already buy the cam? I feel like there's better options than sloppy stage 2, especially for a truck.
it’s actually a swapped car. I chose it mostly because it has great reviews and it was 261 from speedway motor which I verified from Elgin that they sell legitimate Elgin products. In other words, it’s made in the USA out of Chinese knock off. I’m interested to hear what other cams do you think would be better though? Keeping in mind it’s actually not a truck. It’s swapped into an old BMW.
I was going to ask that too. A shop near me once commented that they have only ever seen 1 failure of a caddy racing lifter, and if that's the case, the lifter might have not even been to blame.
I was googling ls7 gm performance lifters and they seemed to be about the same price as caddy lifters (or maybe a little cheaper) so I couldn't tell if they were the same thing or if gm performance ls7 lifters just means genuine gm ls7 lifters as opposed to another generic manufacturer.
it’s actually a swapped car. I chose it mostly because it has great reviews and it was 261 from speedway motor which I verified from Elgin that they sell legitimate Elgin products. In other words, it’s made in the USA out of Chinese knock off. I’m interested to hear what other cams do you think would be better though? Keeping in mind it’s actually not a truck. It’s swapped into an old BMW.
oh gotcha, yeah for a car it's solid. I dont know how well it would wind out to 7200 though. What gears do you have? To rev that high, I'm thinking something along the lines of the summit 8710 cam (230/242, .625, .605, 113+3) Summit says this about it: State-of-the-art cam lobe design to pull strongly past 7000 rpm with as little as 150 lbs. of seat pressure. So you would just need that spring seat pressure, probably via dual springs.
BTR also makes great cams for the top end. What's cool about them is that they test all of their cams on a spintron to make the most amount of power while avoiding valve float and bounce. Btr stage 3 or 4 would make the most sense.
Nope just genuine LS7 lifters, ws6 store rockers, summit 11/32 .120 wall pushrods, and btr 660 springs. Depending upon how much im spinning on slicks at the drag strip sometimes the shift is more like 7400 rpm. It’s Procharger so the higher I spin it the faster I go at the track.
anecdotal maybe but I only speak about what I’ve actually done and not just what I’ve read.
Since my cam is 228/230 .585 I’m figuring the .625 springs are enough , maybe I need to step up to something stronger ? I did not want too much pressure tho. Howard’s cams told me this about their lifters I did not ask about spring pressures and tho. I’m gin a have to call them
I was going on the manufacturer data says it’s good to 7000 and I know it’s useful to shift just after the MAX hp. I’m also running 243’s with fresh 3 angle job and 1.57 exhaust valves
I was going on the manufacturer data says it’s good to 7000 and I know it’s useful to shift just after the MAX hp. I’m also running 243’s with fresh 3 angle job and 1.57 exhaust valves
I think they mean it can rev out to that, especially in smaller engines. In a larger 6.0, I would be surprised if you peaked after 6300 and it will really start to nose down as you approach 7k.
Don't get fascinated with RPM unless your entire combo is built around making power at those RPM's. You don't want an intake made to make power down low and a cam that doesn't make power until 6000+ rpm for example. The only reason I shift at 7300-7400 is because every time I raised my shift point, I picked up mph at the track. If I had johnson link bars, better springs, rockers etc. I'd keep adding rpm beyond what I already do until I quit picking up mph or et at the track.
Also, what does 6500 rpm all day mean to you? Are you road racing it where you will actually be up in those rpms all day or is it just a saying not to be taken literally?
IMO either spend the money on johnsons or get genuine gm ls7's if you want to cheap out like I did. No real middle ground for me just my opinion obviously.
anecdotal maybe but I only speak about what I’ve actually done and not just what I’ve read.
Both are useful. Research and reading is not useless as it involves what many other people have experienced, not just yourself. Often times others have done the testing for us, especially concerning engines that have been around for 20-30 years. There's loads or trial and error there. For instance, bronze bushing trunions in rockers.
I think they mean it can rev out to that, especially in smaller engines. In a larger 6.0, I would be surprised if you peaked after 6300 and it will really start to nose down as you approach 7k.
Hell if that is true I’m a send it back. I did see a Dino video where it started to fall off close to seven grand. I really was debating if I should get the stage three grind but the duration is pretty high in my last motor. I fucked up when I set it up, so I had some piston valve clearance issues. I use the wrong Spring though. I just figured that out today as a matter of fact now you got me thinking maybe I should switch to the stage three or something different. I like the Elgin grinds because they’re made in America and they’re reasonably priced. I’m not getting the cheap Chinese crap I’m getting the stuff straight from El.
Don't get fascinated with RPM unless your entire combo is built around making power at those RPM's. You don't want an intake made to make power down low and a cam that doesn't make power until 6000+ rpm for example. The only reason I shift at 7300-7400 is because every time I raised my shift point, I picked up mph at the track. If I had johnson link bars, better springs, rockers etc. I'd keep adding rpm beyond what I already do until I quit picking up mph or et at the track.
Also, what does 6500 rpm all day mean to you? Are you road racing it where you will actually be up in those rpms all day or is it just a saying not to be taken literally?
IMO either spend the money on johnsons or get genuine gm ls7's if you want to cheap out like I did. No real middle ground for me just my opinion obviously.
so they’re two really cool race tracks where I live. They’re about 2 miles long and very windy. There’s actually four of them, but those two are within 30 minutes of my house. So I do intend on tracking it a bit. I will also drive it around town to the car shows, etc. just flexing on people being an ******* lol so yeah I will drive it at 6500 RPMs. I’m hard on cars. I might need to revamp my bill.
Hell if that is true I’m a send it back. I did see a Dino video where it started to fall off close to seven grand. I really was debating if I should get the stage three grind but the duration is pretty high in my last motor. I fucked up when I set it up, so I had some piston valve clearance issues. I use the wrong Spring though. I just figured that out today as a matter of fact now you got me thinking maybe I should switch to the stage three or something different. I like the Elgin grinds because they’re made in America and they’re reasonably priced. I’m not getting the cheap Chinese crap I’m getting the stuff straight from El.
the Elgin cams have pretty conservative lobes. Since you will be racing and will be switching to quality lifters, I say go with something a bit more aggressive. That's why I recommended the summit and btr cams. They are also made in the US. Summits are more reasonably priced, but like I said, btrs are tested on a spintron to optimize the lobes without becoming dangerous on the valvetrain.
The way I see it, an extra hundred bucks is a drop in a bucket compared to a reasonably sized job like a camswap, and considering the effort and the fact that its going to stay in your engine for a while, you might as well go for the best thing you can. I say btr stage 4.
Damn thinking and talking about it is getting me fired up and those 233/24X, .636, .636, 111 cam specs make me consider going for a big hp build! Can hit 500whp with a good set of ported heads.
My goals are exactly opposite though as I have a street car and am looking to maximize torque between 2000 and 5000 rpms, as opposed maximizing horsepower above 5k rpms. So I am pretty set on the btr Truck norris cam. I won't be shifting above 6500 and likely would rarely go that high. But I dig your build and your goals!
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Lifter choices 
