Gen 3 Ironblock + Gen4 Rotating Assembly
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 8
Gen 3 Ironblock + Gen4 Rotating Assembly I have a 2005 Gen 3 Ironblock. It came with gen 4 rods and pistons from the factory. I would really like to make it a full gen4 rotating assembly. I have a 58x crank available to do so. My question is, what else has to be done sensor wise? I believe the cam sensor moves to the timing cover therefore I will need a gen4 timing cover? I plan to use gen4 wiring harness with this set up - IF - that is possible. Thanks in advance.
You pretty much got it, but to recap you will need
58x crank wheel and specific sensor (the 24x one wont work)
a 4x timing chain wheel
gen 4 front cover with sensor
leave the rear mount gen 3 cam sensor in place (unless you like oil leaks)
58x crank wheel and specific sensor (the 24x one wont work)
a 4x timing chain wheel
gen 4 front cover with sensor
leave the rear mount gen 3 cam sensor in place (unless you like oil leaks)
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 8
Thank you very much! I also heard that the knock sensors are on the side of the gen4 engine, and with the gen3 engine, they are in the valley cover. Is this going to be an issue?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 8
yes I am using gen4 harness and ECU. Does the gen3 block have these features already available to put the knock sensors on the side of the block?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 8
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The truth is it will run as is. Will it run great? Depends on how bad out of balance it is. Harmonics related to balancing….not harmonics related to crank torsional loads from combustion…will shake the bearings out of an engine if it’s out bad enough, and you’ll never feel it. At the same time, these harmonics will fight the engine from turning rpm. Fight meaning it will work against it to make its peak torque where it’s supposed to. It’s still gonna make peak torque, just lower. This is what ALL harmonics do in an engine…or any machine for that matter.
Personally I would balance it. Sure it’s $300…or whatever depending on where your at, but it’s a lot cheaper to do it right once, than to do it twice. Now if your just building a throw-away engine to go do donuts with and raise sand…send it.
Having said this, I have seen very high end race engines overbalanced by quite a bit purposely to achieve better acceleration characteristics. Not more peak power, but more power under the curve to make acceleration quicker…which corresponds with what I mentioned earlier about torque parking lower than it potentially could.
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