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Heads cam intake build suggestions

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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 06:16 AM
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Default Heads cam intake build suggestions

Looking for any “while you’re there’s” or been there done that advice. I’m doing my first LS heads cam intake build. It’s a stock 5.7 auto car in a 99 ws6. Currently tagged and running and driving great. So far I’ve got PRC 225 as cast heads, Tsp stage 4 tsunami camshaft. 7.475 tsp chromoly hardened pushrods. Michigan motor sports rockers with trunion upgrade. Still need an intake and throttle body as well as a stall converter. Looking to build an aggressive street car. I’m open to any advice or suggestions . Motor will be out of the car. I’m getting a mellings oil pump. Ls7 lifters also once my money catches up! I forgot the car already has SLP headers and loudmouth II exhaust.Stage 4 Cathedral Camshaft (Tsunami235/240 duration, .629/.615 lift, 111 LSA

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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 02:21 PM
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Bump.
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 03:47 PM
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Figure out what you will do for tuning before changing anything. If you already have this covered and just did not list it, then disregard. However, the tuning forums are constantly full of people who built the hardware, then find they have no idea how to make it run properly. I also notice you did not list fuel injectors, which will definitely be needed, or any other fuel system parts such as a pump, which may (or not) be needed for a 26 year old car.
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 05:13 PM
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Headers and a good flowing exhaust. No sense spending money trying to make power, and it all gets choked by the exhaust. Gametech is 100% correct about the tuning. You should budget $750 for a good tuner to make all this work right together. If you skimp on the tune, you’ll hate the way the car runs and sell it. I see it ALL THE TIME.
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by gametech
Figure out what you will do for tuning before changing anything. If you already have this covered and just did not list it, then disregard. However, the tuning forums are constantly full of people who built the hardware, then find they have no idea how to make it run properly. I also notice you did not list fuel injectors, which will definitely be needed, or any other fuel system parts such as a pump, which may (or not) be needed for a 26 year old car.

yea I actually do plan on buying injectors I was thinking 42lb but that’s somthing I’m looking for input on. Also wondering if my stock fuel pump will handle everything. It’s an OEM pump I just put in 2yrs 1000miles ago. And my plan is to do a tune after everything is together no doubt👍
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 06:18 PM
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I think your fuel pump is fine.
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by J.Dexter
yea I actually do plan on buying injectors I was thinking 42lb but that’s somthing I’m looking for input on. Also wondering if my stock fuel pump will handle everything. It’s an OEM pump I just put in 2yrs 1000miles ago. And my plan is to do a tune after everything is together no doubt👍
Research the injectors before you buy them. If you have a tuner in mind, ask for their input. Some injectors such as those sold by FAST or Holley may be perfectly fine in their system, but have no data for a GM computer. I have seen many cases where someone bought random injectors, then were told by their tuner to buy different ones if they wanted their car tuned.
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Headers and a good flowing exhaust. No sense spending money trying to make power, and it all gets choked by the exhaust. Gametech is 100% correct about the tuning. You should budget $750 for a good tuner to make all this work right together. If you skimp on the tune, you’ll hate the way the car runs and sell it. I see it ALL THE TIME.
It’s worth reading this post again. Make sure you have access to a good tuner who has the ability and will spend the time to do a good street tune. I had a ‘tuner’ but he just did WOT tuning. I had a moderate/aggressive cam in an auto with a 3200 stall converter and I lost my desire for the car due to drivability issues after my cam swap - bucking, stalling, gas smell from reversion. In hindsight, I should’ve went with a smaller cam, the 10 hp gain wasn’t worth the loss in drivability. Bigger isn’t always better.
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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 02:35 PM
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I’m going to second the bigger isn’t always better with camshafts on this one. 235/240 is pretty radical for a ls1. You are really going to need a good tuner that knows how to tune these cars well for drivability. If you don’t care about decent drivability then go for it with this cam. The sweet spot for ls1s seem to be in the 228-232 range for something that makes good power and doesn’t sacrifice drivability.
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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 02:37 PM
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I have a 22 degrees of overlap in a 403 and I know I went too big that cam has 15.5 degree’s of overlap and you are putting it in a 346 just good for thought.
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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 07:10 PM
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Most people go too large on the cam and too small and cheap on the converter for sure.
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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 10:59 PM
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In to put emphasis on the cam choice, especially for a first build. I put in a cam with 11 degrees positive overlap as my first build. I live in BFE Mississippi, zero access to a close tuner. Where you live matters. I took it to Memphis, WOT only, as others mentioned. Unless you pay and wait for a great tuner, you may be doing street tuning yourself and end up hating to drive the thing anyway. Mine won’t idle in closed loop, I had to use a hybrid open loop with only 11 degrees of overlap. Personally, I bought a Cam Motion Titan 4 that I plan to put in when I get time. The word on this forum is 6 degrees positive overlap is the limit for stock-like manners. I’m sure that number goes up with a great tuner.
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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DUSTYWS6
It’s worth reading this post again. Make sure you have access to a good tuner who has the ability and will spend the time to do a good street tune. I had a ‘tuner’ but he just did WOT tuning. I had a moderate/aggressive cam in an auto with a 3200 stall converter and I lost my desire for the car due to drivability issues after my cam swap - bucking, stalling, gas smell from reversion. In hindsight, I should’ve went with a smaller cam, the 10 hp gain wasn’t worth the loss in drivability. Bigger isn’t always better.
it also comes down to the tune, i had a tuner that was great for wot but thats it my car drove like a dog and would sound like one taking off the light i also stopped enjoying driving the car. Until i got hp tuners and started messing with my transmission settings man i had my camaro sounding and shifting like a 6th gen camaro.
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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by hot98z28
it also comes down to the tune, i had a tuner that was great for wot but thats it my car drove like a dog and would sound like one taking off the light i also stopped enjoying driving the car. Until i got hp tuners and started messing with my transmission settings man i had my camaro sounding and shifting like a 6th gen camaro.
ok thanks for the input. Seems the general consensus is my tune is gonna be critical with this aggressive cam. It’s a weekend warrior/ occasional strip car.
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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 11:01 AM
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Guys, this thread is making me ache. I don't even know where to begin But I'll try

I'm going to create a build thread of my car soon and I also want to do something of a tutorial on pcm tuning primarily drivability stuff For the big cams because They really can be tamed, and the steps needed to do so I think are a lot simpler. Then some of the earlier threads an info that is written out there. It's pretty straightforward how I do it.

I've taught myself how to do all this over the years and I believe a lot of you guys could get the software and help yourselves along, However I think at some point I really do want to help others out with their tunes because there's no reason any good combination of parts can't drive just like stock with a little bit of patience and forethought given to the maps.

My current setup is 376ci" 11.9:1cr with a 234/246 113 cam with 14° overlap @ 0.050" zero issues

My car cold starts goes straight into gear and drives off just fine Even when it's cold It just gets Even smoother as it warms up just like stock without any driveabillity issues. It's daily drivable complete I can even make it through the McDonald's drive-thru and turn the car off so they can hear me at the speaker and then turn it right back on and drive creep forward just the same when it's hot without surging lmao.

Folks tons of overlap with the older carbureted stuff and never complain you Just have to think about your tune-up like an older machine, You got to twist that distributor back and forth until you get the base dialed in and then go from there right? Yeah more to come!

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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by stockA4
Guys, this thread is making me ache. I don't even know where to begin But I'll try

I'm going to create a build thread of my car soon and I also want to do something of a tutorial on pcm tuning primarily drivability stuff For the big cams because They really can be tamed, and the steps needed to do so I think are a lot simpler. Then some of the earlier threads an info that is written out there. It's pretty straightforward how I do it.

I've taught myself how to do all this over the years and I believe a lot of you guys could get the software and help yourselves along, However I think at some point I really do want to help others out with their tunes because there's no reason any good combination of parts can't drive just like stock with a little bit of patience and forethought given to the maps.

My current setup is 376ci" 11.9:1cr with a 234/246 113 cam with 14° overlap @ 0.050" zero issues

My car cold starts goes straight into gear and drives off just fine Even when it's cold It just gets Even smoother as it warms up just like stock without any driveabillity issues. It's daily drivable complete I can even make it through the McDonald's drive-thru and turn the car off so they can hear me at the speaker and then turn it right back on and drive creep forward just the same when it's hot without surging lmao.

Folks tons of overlap with the older carbureted stuff and never complain you Just have to think about your tune-up like an older machine, You got to twist that distributor back and forth until you get the base dialed in and then go from there right? Yeah more to come!
awesome! can’t wait to see the build thread / tutorial I’m gonna check that one out for sure. Thanks for the feedback
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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by stockA4
Guys, this thread is making me ache. I don't even know where to begin But I'll try

I'm going to create a build thread of my car soon and I also want to do something of a tutorial on pcm tuning primarily drivability stuff For the big cams because They really can be tamed, and the steps needed to do so I think are a lot simpler. Then some of the earlier threads an info that is written out there. It's pretty straightforward how I do it.

I've taught myself how to do all this over the years and I believe a lot of you guys could get the software and help yourselves along, However I think at some point I really do want to help others out with their tunes because there's no reason any good combination of parts can't drive just like stock with a little bit of patience and forethought given to the maps.

My current setup is 376ci" 11.9:1cr with a 234/246 113 cam with 14° overlap @ 0.050" zero issues

My car cold starts goes straight into gear and drives off just fine Even when it's cold It just gets Even smoother as it warms up just like stock without any driveabillity issues. It's daily drivable complete I can even make it through the McDonald's drive-thru and turn the car off so they can hear me at the speaker and then turn it right back on and drive creep forward just the same when it's hot without surging lmao.

Folks tons of overlap with the older carbureted stuff and never complain you Just have to think about your tune-up like an older machine, You got to twist that distributor back and forth until you get the base dialed in and then go from there right? Yeah more to come!

OP, to put some perspective, he’s referencing an auto. You can live with more when you have an auto stalled correctly. That said, what are you really gaining with a donkey stick? A little more top end, sure. Great at the track, big power under the curve matters more than this post suggests. “Small” cams have performed very well at the track with good manners. It’s your build, but when more voices are suggesting caution - maybe there’s something there. There’s always one guy that’s the expert and better than all the rest of us.
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Old Jul 29, 2025 | 06:55 AM
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you will want at least 3.73 gears and preferably 4.10 gears with that cam and a higher rpm stall converter as others have said
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Old Jul 29, 2025 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1988montecarloss
you will want at least 3.73 gears and preferably 4.10 gears with that cam and a higher rpm stall converter as others have said
Agreed 3.73 minimum and I really think a decent 10" 3600 stall converter is a good idea as well
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Old Jul 29, 2025 | 06:39 PM
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May as well budget for a transmission rebuild. Stock 4l60 + cam that pulls to over 7000rpm does not equal long life for the stock transmission parts.
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