Harmonic balancer need TDC on install?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 49
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Harmonic balancer need TDC on install? Hello guys,
For the past couple years I've had some odd intermittent noises coming from my engine bay.. I've recently determined it is likely the harmonic balancer and being likely original from 98' (ls1 camaro) I figure it can't hurt to change.
I plan to use the 3 prong puller to remove and the pully pusher tool to install. Going to buy a new balancer and bolt.
My questions are -
1: does the engine need to be TDC when installing? I've read ls1 harmonic balancers do not have timing marks?
2: is there any specific orientation the new balancer needs to be upon install? Can I just push the new balancer on?
Any possible tips or information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
For the past couple years I've had some odd intermittent noises coming from my engine bay.. I've recently determined it is likely the harmonic balancer and being likely original from 98' (ls1 camaro) I figure it can't hurt to change.
I plan to use the 3 prong puller to remove and the pully pusher tool to install. Going to buy a new balancer and bolt.
My questions are -
1: does the engine need to be TDC when installing? I've read ls1 harmonic balancers do not have timing marks?
2: is there any specific orientation the new balancer needs to be upon install? Can I just push the new balancer on?
Any possible tips or information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Agreed
If you want the best go with ATI Super Damper it does have timing marks but they are irelevant to the install. Can be pinned to the crank with their LS1 Pinning Kit which installs a pin radially into crank snout that engages with damper keyway instead of usual face drill/install if you ever plan to run boost of any type or nitrous.
Their install instructions are on their site
I would also go with the re-useable ARP 12pt Damper Bolt instead of the OEM 1 time use bolt
I just did the ATI install on my 2K WS6 replacing a 20yr old ASP 25% underdrive Pulley - went with the ATI 10-% underdrive, but they have a standard version also
ATI specifies which belt P/N to use for their 10% under, otherwise just use the OEM sizes for std version
All can be bought thru Summit Racing
If you want the best go with ATI Super Damper it does have timing marks but they are irelevant to the install. Can be pinned to the crank with their LS1 Pinning Kit which installs a pin radially into crank snout that engages with damper keyway instead of usual face drill/install if you ever plan to run boost of any type or nitrous.
Their install instructions are on their site
I would also go with the re-useable ARP 12pt Damper Bolt instead of the OEM 1 time use bolt
I just did the ATI install on my 2K WS6 replacing a 20yr old ASP 25% underdrive Pulley - went with the ATI 10-% underdrive, but they have a standard version also
ATI specifies which belt P/N to use for their 10% under, otherwise just use the OEM sizes for std version
All can be bought thru Summit Racing
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 526
Just to add a couple of things.
In regards to the three jaw puller I added a big washer so the threaded pointy end doesn't into the crank and damage the crank threads.
Also a bit of blue Loctite on the bolt.
Others can chime in but with a ARP crank bolt 200 foot pounds?
Also you will need to block the flex plate/flywheel so the crank doesn't turn as you torque the dampener bolt.
In regards to the three jaw puller I added a big washer so the threaded pointy end doesn't into the crank and damage the crank threads.
Also a bit of blue Loctite on the bolt.
Others can chime in but with a ARP crank bolt 200 foot pounds?
Also you will need to block the flex plate/flywheel so the crank doesn't turn as you torque the dampener bolt.
Use 262 Red Loctite on crank bolt ATI says 230 lb-ft with the ARP bolt, oem bolt is different
Also recommended to use slight amount of anti-seize on inside damper hub where it slips over crank
ARP bolt uses 1-1/16 12pt socket
OEM bolt is 24mm
I used the ICT Billet flexplate holding tool which bolts to starter mounting holes and engages with a couple teeth of ur flexplate to hold. Proved to be rock solid and all 4 teeth engaged perfectly vs some of the chinese versions out there...
Some would use a large prybar thru the small round inspection cover on trans but only good if u have 2 people which i did not and i didnt want to risk buggering up the teeth on my new billet steel SFI flexplate in case it slipped
Also recommended to use slight amount of anti-seize on inside damper hub where it slips over crank
ARP bolt uses 1-1/16 12pt socket
OEM bolt is 24mm
I used the ICT Billet flexplate holding tool which bolts to starter mounting holes and engages with a couple teeth of ur flexplate to hold. Proved to be rock solid and all 4 teeth engaged perfectly vs some of the chinese versions out there...
Some would use a large prybar thru the small round inspection cover on trans but only good if u have 2 people which i did not and i didnt want to risk buggering up the teeth on my new billet steel SFI flexplate in case it slipped
Last edited by 1QUIKWS6; Sep 23, 2025 at 04:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
Thank you all so very much!!
I plan on going with whatever local parts store has the HB (looks like ATP or dorman brand) and bolt for the best price, moneys a bit tight and the car is basically stock.
Do you still need to block the flywheel on an A4 car or is that just an M6 thing? Mines A4.
Did any of you need to remove the fans to do this job?
Thanks again
I plan on going with whatever local parts store has the HB (looks like ATP or dorman brand) and bolt for the best price, moneys a bit tight and the car is basically stock.
Do you still need to block the flywheel on an A4 car or is that just an M6 thing? Mines A4.
Did any of you need to remove the fans to do this job?
Thanks again
Last edited by Camaro223; Sep 23, 2025 at 07:09 PM.
Thank you all so very much!!
I plan on going with whatever local parts store has the HB (looks like ATP or dorman brand) and bolt for the best price, moneys a bit tight and the car is basically stock.
Do you still need to block the flywheel on an A4 car or is that just an M6 thing? Mines A4.
Did any of you need to remove the fans to do this job?
Thanks again
I plan on going with whatever local parts store has the HB (looks like ATP or dorman brand) and bolt for the best price, moneys a bit tight and the car is basically stock.
Do you still need to block the flywheel on an A4 car or is that just an M6 thing? Mines A4.
Did any of you need to remove the fans to do this job?
Thanks again
I did not have to remove the fans to R&R I even had room for my Milwaukee short frame impact gun to remove the bolt
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,641
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So its a bit bubba but thru the inspection open area on the starter side of the 4L60E bell housing I clamp a large curved jaw vise grip to the flex plate. Really tight. The curved jaw doesn't mangle the starter teeth. Just let it slowly contact the engine block as you torque the balancer bolt. Again bit bubba but it has worked for me a number of times.
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