Extension stuck in harmonic balancer bolt hole/crankshaft
The easiest thing to do would've been to get a long steel bolt with the same thread as the crank. Turn it in 6 or 7 turns, and start pulling. That or a piece of threaded rod (redi bolt in some supply stores in my neck of the woods). Of course, the absolute best method would be to buy the entire kit sold everywhere. However, most of us don't do that. BTW, IIRC, the thread in my crank is an M16×2.0, NOT an M20......
Why on Earth would you cut off the threads????! All that would do is screw up the threads the same as the extension!
It’s basically a half *** way of doing it so no need to worry.
Take the GM crank balancer bolt or any bolt with the proper threads for the crankshaft. Stick it in a vice and with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel remove the head of the bolt. Now you have something you can screw into the crankshaft and then use a puller to remove the balancer. My goto installer a piece of allthread with some washers and nuts.
Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it....
Take the GM crank balancer bolt or any bolt with the proper threads for the crankshaft. Stick it in a vice and with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel remove the head of the bolt. Now you have something you can screw into the crankshaft and then use a puller to remove the balancer. My goto installer a piece of allthread with some washers and nuts.
Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it....
?????Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it. That worked for me.....
Just explaining a way to use an old crank bolt if you don’t have the “rod” for the puller. And also how this whole thread could have been preveneted.
That’s literally what I explained the same as 01Camaro.(his explanation was a little more thorough)
I am done “explaining” to you
Last edited by JacobChevys; Nov 15, 2025 at 01:53 PM.
Read my above post.
Just explaining a way to use an old crank bolt if you don’t have the “rod” for the puller. And also how this whole thread could have been preveneted.
That’s literally what I explained the same as 01Camaro.(his explanation was a little more thorough)
I am done with this thread
Just explaining a way to use an old crank bolt if you don’t have the “rod” for the puller. And also how this whole thread could have been preveneted.
That’s literally what I explained the same as 01Camaro.(his explanation was a little more thorough)
I am done with this thread
I, for one, am happy to hear that. Learn proper terminology. Your post made no sense to a guy (me) who has 52 years experience as a Tool and Diemaker. There are no threaded bolt heads, which is what you said. I had no idea what you were talking about. Camaro's thread makes sense.....
Take the GM crank balancer bolt or any bolt with the proper threads for the crankshaft. Stick it in a vice and with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel remove the head of the bolt. Now you have something you can screw into the crankshaft and then use a puller to remove the balancer. My goto installer a piece of allthread with some washers and nuts.
Yes, bad and wrong info IS killing forums AND PEOPLE, who may try something they've read that is either impossible to do, or just plain wrong. For a guy who was done with this thread......Imagine if you were still involved?! Don't quit your day job auditioning for a part as the Invisible Man!
Yes, bad and wrong info IS killing forums AND PEOPLE, who may try something they've read that is either impossible to do, or just plain wrong. For a guy who was done with this thread......Imagine if you were still involved?! Don't quit your day job auditioning for a part as the Invisible Man!
Don’t you have some weird 67* starting/cranking issue you should be working on instead of sitting here spewing nothing but BS!

My post contained facts, not BS. Youre still here? I must be seeing things!! Yes, I do have a weird cold start issue going on. Maybe you can help figure it out......WAIT!!! Never mind. Oh, don't you have some weird threaded bolt heads to go cut?? Are your bolt heads fine thread, or coarse?



And to think all of this coming from a tool and diemaker who doesn’t even know what a “bolt head” is.
What a complete waste of time it is talking to you

The easiest thing to do would've been to get a long steel bolt with the same thread as the crank. Turn it in 6 or 7 turns, and start pulling. That or a piece of threaded rod (redi bolt in some supply stores in my neck of the woods). Of course, the absolute best method would be to buy the entire kit sold everywhere. However, most of us don't do that. BTW, IIRC, the thread in my crank is an M16×2.0, NOT an M20......
NEVER use a small portion of crank threads to remove a balancer, especially “6 or 7” turns.
This is like the guys who use an LS7 Bolt to install balancers, yeah they may get away with it once or a few times but not the right way.
Even if it was bottomed out, I still would never use any portion of the threads to remove a balancer.
As far as install, the tool states to bottom out the threaded rod when installing.
Use the proper Puller tool and Install tool like most of us do…
or cut off a “bolt head”

Last edited by JacobChevys; Nov 15, 2025 at 03:12 PM.








