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Extension stuck in harmonic balancer bolt hole/crankshaft

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Old Nov 12, 2025 | 11:56 AM
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I would have put an extension on it (unless the opening is beat up). Then twist with a ratchet while pulling
Old Nov 13, 2025 | 10:21 AM
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The easiest thing to do would've been to get a long steel bolt with the same thread as the crank. Turn it in 6 or 7 turns, and start pulling. That or a piece of threaded rod (redi bolt in some supply stores in my neck of the woods). Of course, the absolute best method would be to buy the entire kit sold everywhere. However, most of us don't do that. BTW, IIRC, the thread in my crank is an M16×2.0, NOT an M20......
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
Hes obviously already mangled it,
he could get a deep socket over the extension with a metal cap to push against with the puller

yes he should of used an old crank bolt with threads cut off
Why on Earth would you cut off the threads????! All that would do is screw up the threads the same as the extension!
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Why on Earth would you cut off the threads????! All that would do is screw up the threads the same as the extension!
You’re not understanding, it absolutely would not screw up the threads at all. He would cut the threads off the bolt head so the threads are THERE!

It’s basically a half *** way of doing it so no need to worry.
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 11:43 AM
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Take the GM crank balancer bolt or any bolt with the proper threads for the crankshaft. Stick it in a vice and with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel remove the head of the bolt. Now you have something you can screw into the crankshaft and then use a puller to remove the balancer. My goto installer a piece of allthread with some washers and nuts.
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
You’re not understanding, it absolutely would not screw up the threads at all. He would cut the threads off the bolt head so the threads are THERE!

It’s basically a half *** way of doing it so no need to worry.
Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it....
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
Take the GM crank balancer bolt or any bolt with the proper threads for the crankshaft. Stick it in a vice and with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel remove the head of the bolt. Now you have something you can screw into the crankshaft and then use a puller to remove the balancer. My goto installer a piece of allthread with some washers and nuts.
Originally Posted by grinder11
Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it....
Read the first quote
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
You’re not understanding, it absolutely would not screw up the threads at all. He would cut the threads off the bolt head so the threads are THERE!

It’s basically a half *** way of doing it so no need to worry.
????? The first quoted post I fully understand. It is YOUR post which makes no sense. Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it. That worked for me.....
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
?????Not worried at all. But please show a pic of a bolt head with threads on it, which you'd then cut off. I've never seen any bolt heads with threads. I can see cutting off the bolt heads, but there shouldn't be any threads on it. it wouldn't hurt a thing to just get a longer M16×2.0 bolt, and leave the head on it. That worked for me.....
Read my above post.

Just explaining a way to use an old crank bolt if you don’t have the “rod” for the puller. And also how this whole thread could have been preveneted.

That’s literally what I explained the same as 01Camaro.(his explanation was a little more thorough)

I am done “explaining” to you


Last edited by JacobChevys; Nov 15, 2025 at 01:53 PM.
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
Read my above post.

Just explaining a way to use an old crank bolt if you don’t have the “rod” for the puller. And also how this whole thread could have been preveneted.

That’s literally what I explained the same as 01Camaro.(his explanation was a little more thorough)

I am done with this thread
I, for one, am happy to hear that. Learn proper terminology. Your post made no sense to a guy (me) who has 52 years experience as a Tool and Diemaker. There are no threaded bolt heads, which is what you said. I had no idea what you were talking about. Camaro's thread makes sense.....
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
I, for one, am happy to hear that. Learn proper terminology. Your post made no sense to a guy (me) who has 52 years experience as a Tool and Diemaker. There are no threaded bolt heads, which is what you said. I had no idea what you were talking about. Camaro's thread makes sense.....
For a guy with 52 years tool experience, you’d think he’d understand. I am sorry to hear that
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
Take the GM crank balancer bolt or any bolt with the proper threads for the crankshaft. Stick it in a vice and with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel remove the head of the bolt. Now you have something you can screw into the crankshaft and then use a puller to remove the balancer. My goto installer a piece of allthread with some washers and nuts.
Exactly! Well said, and totally clear.
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
For a guy with 52 years tool experience, you’d think he’d understand. I am sorry to hear that
Yes, you are sorry. I thought you were done here? I posted valuable, CORRECT info. You?
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Yes, you are sorry. I thought you were done here? I posted valuable, CORRECT info. You?
Well now I’m back


We got an angry guy over here…. Yikes
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 01:55 PM
  #35  
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Small part of the reason why these forums are dead now
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
Small part of the reason why these forums are dead now
Yes, bad and wrong info IS killing forums AND PEOPLE, who may try something they've read that is either impossible to do, or just plain wrong. For a guy who was done with this thread......Imagine if you were still involved?! Don't quit your day job auditioning for a part as the Invisible Man!
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Yes, bad and wrong info IS killing forums AND PEOPLE, who may try something they've read that is either impossible to do, or just plain wrong. For a guy who was done with this thread......Imagine if you were still involved?! Don't quit your day job auditioning for a part as the Invisible Man!

Don’t you have some weird 67* starting/cranking issue you should be working on instead of sitting here spewing nothing but BS!
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JacobChevys
Don’t you have some weird 67* starting/cranking issue you should be working on instead of sitting here spewing nothing but BS!
My post contained facts, not BS. Youre still here? I must be seeing things!! Yes, I do have a weird cold start issue going on. Maybe you can help figure it out......WAIT!!! Never mind. Oh, don't you have some weird threaded bolt heads to go cut?? Are your bolt heads fine thread, or coarse?
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
My post contained facts, not BS. Youre still here? I must be seeing things!! Yes, I do have a weird cold start issue going on. Maybe you can help figure it out......WAIT!!! Never mind. Oh, don't you have some weird threaded bolt heads to go cut?? Are your bolt heads fine thread, or coarse?
Yup and not going anywhere

And to think all of this coming from a tool and diemaker who doesn’t even know what a “bolt head” is.

What a complete waste of time it is talking to you





Old Nov 15, 2025 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
The easiest thing to do would've been to get a long steel bolt with the same thread as the crank. Turn it in 6 or 7 turns, and start pulling. That or a piece of threaded rod (redi bolt in some supply stores in my neck of the woods). Of course, the absolute best method would be to buy the entire kit sold everywhere. However, most of us don't do that. BTW, IIRC, the thread in my crank is an M16×2.0, NOT an M20......
Probably the worst advice given here as well.

NEVER use a small portion of crank threads to remove a balancer, especially “6 or 7” turns.

This is like the guys who use an LS7 Bolt to install balancers, yeah they may get away with it once or a few times but not the right way.

Even if it was bottomed out, I still would never use any portion of the threads to remove a balancer.

As far as install, the tool states to bottom out the threaded rod when installing.

Use the proper Puller tool and Install tool like most of us do…

or cut off a “bolt head”



Last edited by JacobChevys; Nov 15, 2025 at 03:12 PM.



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