Cam Reccomendation for LS1 powered Cobra.
#22
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If you are in Australia then go see Sam at Sam's Performance in Sydney if you want to do the 8TB setup. Also, I think he is on top of his game in Australia as far as tuning goes...
Your car is quite nice, although for a 346, I think the header primaries are too large. I think low end may suffer a bit. But, the extremely long primaries may help offset them. How long are the tubes BTW. I am very impressed by the fact you fabbed those yourself.
What are your power goals for the car?
If you want a cam to make max power with stock heads, etc... vs a big lumpy cam, those could end up being different set ups... Max power with a stock intake and stock heads might suprise you. Of course the fact that the car is so light, you can end up way overcamming the car so it makes a big peak number, but low end power can end up suffering...
Your car is quite nice, although for a 346, I think the header primaries are too large. I think low end may suffer a bit. But, the extremely long primaries may help offset them. How long are the tubes BTW. I am very impressed by the fact you fabbed those yourself.
What are your power goals for the car?
If you want a cam to make max power with stock heads, etc... vs a big lumpy cam, those could end up being different set ups... Max power with a stock intake and stock heads might suprise you. Of course the fact that the car is so light, you can end up way overcamming the car so it makes a big peak number, but low end power can end up suffering...
#24
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
If you are in Australia then go see Sam at Sam's Performance in Sydney if you want to do the 8TB setup. Also, I think he is on top of his game in Australia as far as tuning goes...
Your car is quite nice, although for a 346, I think the header primaries are too large. I think low end may suffer a bit. But, the extremely long primaries may help offset them. How long are the tubes BTW. I am very impressed by the fact you fabbed those yourself.
What are your power goals for the car?
If you want a cam to make max power with stock heads, etc... vs a big lumpy cam, those could end up being different set ups... Max power with a stock intake and stock heads might suprise you. Of course the fact that the car is so light, you can end up way overcamming the car so it makes a big peak number, but low end power can end up suffering...
Your car is quite nice, although for a 346, I think the header primaries are too large. I think low end may suffer a bit. But, the extremely long primaries may help offset them. How long are the tubes BTW. I am very impressed by the fact you fabbed those yourself.
What are your power goals for the car?
If you want a cam to make max power with stock heads, etc... vs a big lumpy cam, those could end up being different set ups... Max power with a stock intake and stock heads might suprise you. Of course the fact that the car is so light, you can end up way overcamming the car so it makes a big peak number, but low end power can end up suffering...
Yep, Sam has a good reputation down here. A friend of mine is getting Sam to do a MAFless Edit tune on his LS1 powered Cobra. Sam is a long way from me though. I'm In Melbourne and he's in Sydney and there's about 600 Miles between us.
Sam makes an 8 TB set up but I plan to machine up my own manifold and throttle body set up. It's pretty straigtforward for an LS1 since the ports are symetrical, there is no coolant or oil running through the intake and the intake can be made in 2 halves since there is a cover plate over the valley.
I built the headers with 1 7/8" primaries because initially I was planning on a blower. I think the primaries are arround 30-32" long from memory. I've built most things on the car myself as that's half the fun of doing one of these cars.
I figure a motor that makes good power from mid range up would be better for traction. Loads of low down torque is just going to turn the tyres off the mark.
Emissions aren't such a big deal. I only have to pass the tests when I get the car first registerd and I'll do that with the stock cam in place. If I have trouble down the track and need to be retested it isn't a big job to swap the cam back.
As for Power figures and goals for the car??? Carroll Shelby the Father of the Cobra used to say "If more is better then too much is just right" I think that pretty much sums up the thinking behind the Cobra.
Cheers
Mike
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mike, that thing is SWEET! as for your cam choice, the emissions might be the
only thing that will give you problems.. any of the 224 cams should work great
in your application..
and you have built most of this yourself? unreal!!!
only thing that will give you problems.. any of the 224 cams should work great
in your application..
and you have built most of this yourself? unreal!!!
#29
Gotta go bigger than a 224, I don't understand why you guys are recommending that cam for his application. Thats a baby cam nowadays. I'd go with a 228 or up. You won't sacrafice any drivability with that size of cam either. Not saying the 224 cam is a bad cam, in fact it is a great cam, but for this guys purpose, I would go at least with a 228 or up.
By the way, that is an BAD *** car!! Great job!
By the way, that is an BAD *** car!! Great job!
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Thanks for the kind words guys. This has been my dream car since I was a teenager and it's finally starting to take shape.
I haven't considered N2O but who knows in the future. N20 is a real no no in street cars in Australia. If you get pulled over and the bottle is connected they will book you and fine you $$$.
I like the idea of making the power all motor. No bolt on extras to go wrong and a clean simple engine bay.
After reading a few more of the cam posts I've been having a look at the cam packages offered by TSP. I've been looking at the Cam package 4 for $699 which includes Cam, Patriot springs, spring seats, Ti retainers, molly push rods and new seals.
Do the Patriot springs and seats go on stock heads with no machining?
The cams that appeal are the 231/231 .598/.598 112+2
or with a little less lift and a little more duration the 232/232 .578/.578 112+2
What does the +2 on the Lobe center figure mean? Does it refer to the cam being advanced 2 degrees?
Also are the lift figures quoted at the valve with a 1.7 ratio rocker? I assume at the valve since most of the valve springs like the 918s say they are good for .600 lift.
What do you think are these any good for my application?
Sorry for all the newbie questions.
Cheers
Mike
I haven't considered N2O but who knows in the future. N20 is a real no no in street cars in Australia. If you get pulled over and the bottle is connected they will book you and fine you $$$.
I like the idea of making the power all motor. No bolt on extras to go wrong and a clean simple engine bay.
After reading a few more of the cam posts I've been having a look at the cam packages offered by TSP. I've been looking at the Cam package 4 for $699 which includes Cam, Patriot springs, spring seats, Ti retainers, molly push rods and new seals.
Do the Patriot springs and seats go on stock heads with no machining?
The cams that appeal are the 231/231 .598/.598 112+2
or with a little less lift and a little more duration the 232/232 .578/.578 112+2
What does the +2 on the Lobe center figure mean? Does it refer to the cam being advanced 2 degrees?
Also are the lift figures quoted at the valve with a 1.7 ratio rocker? I assume at the valve since most of the valve springs like the 918s say they are good for .600 lift.
What do you think are these any good for my application?
Sorry for all the newbie questions.
Cheers
Mike
#31
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Originally Posted by Sanders
Gotta go bigger than a 224, I don't understand why you guys are recommending that cam for his application. Thats a baby cam nowadays. I'd go with a 228 or up. You won't sacrafice any drivability with that size of cam either. Not saying the 224 cam is a bad cam, in fact it is a great cam, but for this guys purpose, I would go at least with a 228 or up.
By the way, that is an BAD *** car!! Great job!
By the way, that is an BAD *** car!! Great job!
#32
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Originally Posted by jrp
were reccomending this "baby" cam since it fits his application of daily driving with the occasional strip/track run. his power to weight ratio is already gonna be crazy, he doesnt need a bigger cam. besides from 2-5k these baby cams are pretty much owning these bigger cams. plus he has emissions concerns as well.
Cheers
Mike
#33
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Originally Posted by LS1 Cobra
Thanks for the kind words guys. This has been my dream car since I was a teenager and it's finally starting to take shape.
I haven't considered N2O but who knows in the future. N20 is a real no no in street cars in Australia. If you get pulled over and the bottle is connected they will fine you.
I like the idea of making the power all motor. No bolt on extras to go wrong and a clean simple engine bay.
After reading a few more of the cam posts I've been having a look at the cam packages offered by TSP. I've been looking at the Cam package 4 for $699 which includes Cam, Patriot springs, spring seats, Ti retainers, molly push rods and new seals.
Do the Patriot springs and seats go on stock heads with no machining?
The cams that appeal are the 231/231 .598/.598 112+2
or with a little less lift and a little more duration the 232/232 .578/.578 112+2
What does the +2 on the Lobe center figure mean? Does it refer to the cam being advanced 2 degrees?
Also are the lift figures quoted at the valve with a 1.7 ratio rocker? I assume at the valve since most of the valve springs like the 918s say they are good for .600 lift.
What do you think are these any good for my application?
Sorry for all the newbie questions.
Cheers
Mike
I haven't considered N2O but who knows in the future. N20 is a real no no in street cars in Australia. If you get pulled over and the bottle is connected they will fine you.
I like the idea of making the power all motor. No bolt on extras to go wrong and a clean simple engine bay.
After reading a few more of the cam posts I've been having a look at the cam packages offered by TSP. I've been looking at the Cam package 4 for $699 which includes Cam, Patriot springs, spring seats, Ti retainers, molly push rods and new seals.
Do the Patriot springs and seats go on stock heads with no machining?
The cams that appeal are the 231/231 .598/.598 112+2
or with a little less lift and a little more duration the 232/232 .578/.578 112+2
What does the +2 on the Lobe center figure mean? Does it refer to the cam being advanced 2 degrees?
Also are the lift figures quoted at the valve with a 1.7 ratio rocker? I assume at the valve since most of the valve springs like the 918s say they are good for .600 lift.
What do you think are these any good for my application?
Sorry for all the newbie questions.
Cheers
Mike
all cam figures you see are factored in with the stock 1.7 ratio.
i still think the TSP 225 package would be the best bet, on a 112+4 or 114+4. yes the +* means the advance the cam has.
#34
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Originally Posted by LS1 Cobra
Will a 224 still keep me emissions legal? I wasn't so concerned about emissions after the car has had it's initial test to get it registered and on the road.
Cheers
Mike
Cheers
Mike
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Originally Posted by jrp
dont know how strict your emissions are but the 224 114 has passed CA emissions and CA is regarded as the emission **** state, if it passes here it passes anywhere.
Are you reccomending installing it 4 degrees advanced? What's the effect of advancing the cam this much? Valves opening sooner giving better cylinder filling at higher RPM? More top end power rather than low down torque?
Thanks for the good input.
Cheers
Mike
#36
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Originally Posted by LS1 Cobra
It looks like the TSP 225 is 225/225 .589/.589 112.
Are you reccomending installing it 4 degrees advanced? What's the effect of advancing the cam this much? Valves opening sooner giving better cylinder filling at higher RPM? More top end power rather than low down torque?
Thanks for the good input.
Cheers
Mike
Are you reccomending installing it 4 degrees advanced? What's the effect of advancing the cam this much? Valves opening sooner giving better cylinder filling at higher RPM? More top end power rather than low down torque?
Thanks for the good input.
Cheers
Mike
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Originally Posted by LS1 Cobra
It looks like the TSP 225 is 225/225 .589/.589 112.
Are you reccomending installing it 4 degrees advanced? What's the effect of advancing the cam this much? Valves opening sooner giving better cylinder filling at higher RPM? More top end power rather than low down torque?
Thanks for the good input.
Cheers
Mike
Are you reccomending installing it 4 degrees advanced? What's the effect of advancing the cam this much? Valves opening sooner giving better cylinder filling at higher RPM? More top end power rather than low down torque?
Thanks for the good input.
Cheers
Mike
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Originally Posted by Sanders
Gotta go bigger than a 224, I don't understand why you guys are recommending that cam for his application. Thats a baby cam nowadays. I'd go with a 228 or up. You won't sacrafice any drivability with that size of cam either. Not saying the 224 cam is a bad cam, in fact it is a great cam, but for this guys purpose, I would go at least with a 228 or up.
By the way, that is an BAD *** car!! Great job!
By the way, that is an BAD *** car!! Great job!
Because bigger is better? Because that's what everyone is saying to do? Bigger cams certainly work fantastic in some applications. In others they do not.
An automobile is a system.The only way to get the most efficient set-up is to make sure you select components based on your needs.Then make sure those compliments are engineered to compliment one another. Selecting parts from "the flavor of the month" bin is not the right thing to do in every case.
What works great for one combo might be total **** in another.
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Originally Posted by Cheatin' Chad
I believe most of these cams have that advance ground into them. Installing them 4* advanced would give you 8 total in most cases.
Cheers
Mike