Changing O ring on the oil pump
#1
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I've read you have to drop the oil pan to get at the pick up tube to do this. Seems like the K member is in the way but none of the threads I read (did a search) say anything about dropping the K member to do this. Do I have to drop the K member to do this or can I fit the tools between the k/pan and drop it just enough to get at the pick up tube? Thanx in advance.
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Yes it can be difficult just becareful and take your time don't get in a rush at that point. A long flexible mangnet will be very helpful got mine from Home Depot. I use one finger to hold it in place and use the open end of the wrench to turn it until it gets started etc...
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Like these guys already said, just unbolt all the 10mm bolts holding the pan to the block and the two 15mm bolts that hold it to the bellhousing towards the back and it should drop down about 1.5". Be sure to put something in the oil pan, like a clean rag just incase you accidentally drop the bolt. Because if it drops all the way to the back, well good luck getting it out of there.
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If you don't already have the radiator/water pump/pulley/timing cover off, it would probably be easier to just drop the pan completely if all you're doing is changing the o-ring. With the pan off putting the ring in will be a peice of cake, as will bolting up the pick up tube. If you already have the timing cover off, ignore what i just said.
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Why do you think you need to change the O-ring?
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I loosened the pan bolts and dropped the pan down. Still not a lot of room to get to the bolt. I learned a trick from searching on this forum. I used lockwire pliers and put lockwire under the head of the oil tube bolt after I loosened it some. Held it with the lockwire/pliers and kept me from losing it. Left the bolt on the pliers and used that to hold it in place to put it back in. Worked great. Also helps a lot to have a 10mm gearwrench.
Thanks,
Glenn
Thanks,
Glenn
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I am in the middle of my cam swap and I'm having trouble getting my oil pan to drop. I loosened all the oil pan to block bolts, but it still is sealed to the block. I've gently slide a flathead screwdriver in there and pried, and even hit the part left exposed by the timing chain cover being removed with a rubber mallet, but it will not break loose. I didn't unbolt any 15mm bolts. I'm SOOO scared of warping the mating surfaces, so I don't wanna proceed until I get some advice.
Thanks,
Derek
Thanks,
Derek
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I had the same problem dropping the pan. If it doesn't want to come down then you didn't get all the bolts loose, trust me on this one. There are two large bolts in the very back that are horizontal, those were the ones that I missed. Take these completely out. If it's not that, then you missed the small bolts that are hidden by the K member.
Once you get all the bolts loose, my pan dropped by itself, took no effort at all. So don't force it, you'll break something.
Thanks,
Glenn
Once you get all the bolts loose, my pan dropped by itself, took no effort at all. So don't force it, you'll break something.
Thanks,
Glenn
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derek, you missed some bolts
a bad o-ring can cause ticking because some of the lifters may not get sufficient oil pressure. I'm going in after mine tomorrow.
a bad o-ring can cause ticking because some of the lifters may not get sufficient oil pressure. I'm going in after mine tomorrow.