Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

It's basically a cam install. So I'd say, taking your time and having done it before, about 3-4 hours. 4-5 if your new to this.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

You have to take off your water pump and move the radiator out of the way, pull your main pully then you can pull off the timing chain cover.

After that the oil pump is held on by 5 bolts and is very easy to replace, the hardest bolt is on the pickup line (bottom of the pump).

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Thanks man

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

It's all fixed now. Thanks for all the help!!!!

Ended up being the O'Ring.

BLU-BY-U

interesting read onyx, glad you got it worked out

I recently had a cam installed and my idle pressure has gone from a "before" swap 35psi hot (190 temp oil) to an "after" swap idle of 23psi hot (190 again). We've ruled out an o-ring as it was checked and was ok. I'm hitting about 50psi under WOT. I'm not sure what I was hitting "before", but I thought for sure it was over 50.

I had the shop tell me its possibly a cam bearing? Says the aftermarket cam is "sharp" and can slice the bearing (I've had 2 cam swaps on this motor? I really don't know what to think.

I was running redline 10w30 with a k&n oil filter "before" when seeing the 35psi. "After" the swap they put in mobil one 10w30 with a gm filter. They want to try putting redline and the filter back on to get an apple to apple comparison. I can't believe a brand of oil and filter would make a 12psi difference at idle, but I'm running out of options.

Uthinkso

As a standard we follow 10psi per 1000rpm. So with that in mind 20psi at idle is fine, it is nothing that I would be concerned with. If it continues to drop DO NOT DRIVE IT.