Having digested all of this, I find it interesting.
Last summer (+60K miles) I ran 2 qts 15w-50 Mobil 1 / 4 qts 10w30 Mobil 1 during the hotter months here in FL. Definite increase in oil pressure, during extended hot idling. Does that make it better; well, of course not.
And, during the winter I've ran just 10w30 Mobil 1.
I know that the total value of a lubricant is not necessarily in the "hot" oil pressure,yet all I can come back to in my old-school thinking is that "more is good", at least when more than 20K miles previous.
I'm willing to see the err of my ways, though.
Don't take this to mean that I believe the higher viscosity the better. It's like the additive question, to some extent; finding enough relevant facts to make a decision.

 

Royal Purple 10W-30

 

0-30 AMS OIL. Unless you have 100K on the motor. And thats not because its my favorite color bottle or my friend thinks it good. Do your homework, you will find it's the best.

 

10/30 Redline

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
<strong> I keep switching because the little light in the dash says to change oil. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> I'm running out of brands and weights. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> The last oil change I put in Mobil 1 10W30. So far the light hasn't come on so I guess the car is OK with it.

I don't know what else to try. <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Patman - Can you help? PLEASE!!

Thanks

John </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">hey john, i also figured out that if you reset your pcm it makes your oil last longer. I havent changed my oil in a while and the light still hasnt come on <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />


oh yah, btw, i use mobil one 10w-30

 

I'm using a racing brand called Neo Synthetic in 0w-5. I've been using this exclusively since the car was new. I've had no oil consumption problems, like some of my friends have had with their cars, and the car has seen quite a few 160mph jaunts. It's a little pricey at about $10qt or $35gal.

Here's a link where I buy it:
www.bakerprecision.com

Here's a link to the company that makes it along with the properties info of the oil & the company that makes it:
www.neosyntheticoil.com

This is a nice link on what the properties in oil are what they mean:
www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sawedoff:
<strong> I'm using a racing brand called Neo Synthetic in 0w-5. I've been using this exclusively since the car was new. I've had no oil consumption problems, like some of my friends have had with their cars, and the car has seen quite a few 160mph jaunts. It's a little pricey at about $10qt or $35gal.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Have you done an oil analysis on this stuff after you've run it a while? Neo is good oil but that viscosity is meant for short runs in qualifying to give maximum power, not prolonged engine protection. I think you're sacrificing a ton of engine wear for very little horsepower gain. That thin viscosity would not offer a high enough HTHS number to protect your engine under stress.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fastest 35th SE.:
<strong> REDLINE
10w40 for the summer time.
10w30 for the winter time. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">True Dat! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Redline is the best <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by OBSSSD:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fastest 35th SE.:
<strong> REDLINE
10w40 for the summer time.
10w30 for the winter time. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">True Dat! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Redline is the best <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If wintertime means less than 20F in your area, the 5w30 Redline is the better choice. Sure the 10w30 will handle it (I ran 10w30 Schaeffer oil this winter and it hit -10 a few times) but the 5w30 will allow for faster flow when you get those really cold mornings. Redline's 5w30 is probably the most stable 5w30 you're gonna find anyways, it's one of the only 5w30s I would honestly say could be used year round, even in extreme summer heat.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sawedoff:
<strong> I'm using a racing brand called Neo Synthetic in 0w-5. I've been using this exclusively since the car was new. I've had no oil consumption problems, like some of my friends have had with their cars, and the car has seen quite a few 160mph jaunts. It's a little pricey at about $10qt or $35gal.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Have you done an oil analysis on this stuff after you've run it a while? Neo is good oil but that viscosity is meant for short runs in qualifying to give maximum power, not prolonged engine protection. I think you're sacrificing a ton of engine wear for very little horsepower gain. That thin viscosity would not offer a high enough HTHS number to protect your engine under stress. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">But the thing is, this isn't a race engine, nor am I qualifying for the Daytona 500. This is essentially an extreme duty race grade 5weight oil. I run no cartridge spin-on filters and all my oil is filtered because no by-pass is used. Oil consumption is almost nil . It does offer excellent protection because the testing this oil has gone through, and the racers that use it back it up. You don't need a heavy thick oil if clearances are in cue. Compression and leakdown testers all indicate excellent margins. I have better compression in my 99' Z28 than my friend does in his WS6, and he uses Castrol Syntec 10w-30. I have no intentions of doing an oil analysis, because it's ridiculous for a street motor. If it can take racing abuse, it can damn sure work in a street car that cruises a highway at 2200 rpms.

 

Racing conditions and street driving are different though. An oil might be able to handle extreme race conditions, but not handle day to day driving, since there are different needs for race engines and street driven cars. Race engine oils don't usually contain as much detergents, nor do they have the need to retain their TBN as long (neutralizing acids)

 

I'm in Texas bro <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

It rarely gets below freezing here and my car is parked in a garage at night so my car rarely sees less than 40-45 degrees F. On the other hand, it can be 100+ degrees F for 3 months out of the year. See what that does do the oil pressure on an LS1 - it kills it 15-20psi. With my car running a 7000rpm limiter and a big stall I need something that will maintain 10psi per 1000rpm of oil pressure.

In conclusion, my choices do exactly that <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" />

 

10w30 redline

<small>[ March 30, 2003, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: ROB'S SS ]</small>

 

Castrol GTX 10w40. It's cheap and the 40 weight I belive helps the bearings a bit when on the bottle.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 4mulaJoe:
<strong> Castrol GTX 10w40. It's cheap and the 40 weight I belive helps the bearings a bit when on the bottle. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">One of the very best used oil analysis reports I've seen in an LS1 was with 10w40 GTX. It did thin out to a high 30wt oil by the end of a 2500 mile interval though, but the wear metals looked extremely good.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong> Racing conditions and street driving are different though. An oil might be able to handle extreme race conditions, but not handle day to day driving, since there are different needs for race engines and street driven cars. Race engine oils don't usually contain as much detergents, nor do they have the need to retain their TBN as long (neutralizing acids) </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Baloney, Pat! <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sawedoff:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong> Racing conditions and street driving are different though. An oil might be able to handle extreme race conditions, but not handle day to day driving, since there are different needs for race engines and street driven cars. Race engine oils don't usually contain as much detergents, nor do they have the need to retain their TBN as long (neutralizing acids) </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Baloney, Pat! <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's your opinion.

 

Patman is on track with this one. I've got an interview with DEI's head enigine builder where he states that the qualifying oil( a 0-5 for example) will have an additive package that only lasts a few laps. He goes on to say that if they attempted to race with the qualifying oil, they would most likely be one of the teams packing up early. I find it odd that you go through all of the trouble to set up an alternative oiling system, yet you feel that an oil analysis is a waste.

 

Patman, what would you recommend I go with. Currently I run mobile 1 10w30.
I live in Oklahoma so the weather is not terrible cold in the winter and in the summer is around 90-100's . What should I use in the winter and summer?

currently my car has 47,000 miles on it. It has headers, nitrous, asp pulley, and some other bolt ons. Soon it will have a cam. I don't know if mods affect with oil to use, so I thought I would just list them.

Thanks for your help!

 

But what weight oil would you use on a 1,000 hp LS-1 blown and sprayed race motor?