Why the f&)&*^ doesnt ARP or anyone tell you this!
08-10-2004, 09:30 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
BUT.... wouldnt a clearence issue be consistant and not only when the car is run hard and it sit for a few and all is well again? I would have OP problems all the time and I dont...
*lots of edits*
*lots of edits*
If you had "loose" main bearings then this would've been even looser after hard driving. My oil pressure dropped a bit after a hard run (1/4 mile pass) for 5-10 minutes until it cooled down.
Nothing was wrong (that I could see) in my bottom end other than the main bearings were a touch loose (.003 clearance)
08-10-2004, 07:59 PM
#44
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Your oil pressure and volume are higher than stock, this can lower oil level in pan under hard extended use. But at least you need to consider oil pump pressure bypass circuit for possible sticking causing your problem, it doesnt have to be a defective pump, you could have debris that has scored the bore of bypass circuit.
08-10-2004, 08:11 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
What is your oil temperature doing. I think that there is a PID that measures Oil Temperature on the LS1. It could be that the oil is getting hot when you are romping around in the car and the viscosity is thinning out causing the pressure to drop. You could check the foaming theory by recreating the oil pressure drop situation, shutting off the engine and draining the oil in a pan and looking at it quickly while it is still foamy, if it is. Also, have a cooking thermometer ready and stick it in the hot oil. Admittedly, it won't be as hot as it was in the engine a minute earlier, but if it is 220 or more, you know it's getting too hot.
I really don't think that this is a torquing issue with the head/main/rod bolts or bolt stretch. From what you are saying, the bolt torque might not be perfect, but the torques are probably as good or better than you're going to find in most performance engine build-ups.
All my best. I've been there before. I too know frustration like this!
Steve
I really don't think that this is a torquing issue with the head/main/rod bolts or bolt stretch. From what you are saying, the bolt torque might not be perfect, but the torques are probably as good or better than you're going to find in most performance engine build-ups.
All my best. I've been there before. I too know frustration like this!
Steve
PID? I have no idea what temp the oil is..... Its almost impossible to tell too. I cant romp on it anywhere near where I live
Yes, the aggrivation does suck. When this one goes, Im probably going to buy a factory crate motor and be done.
08-10-2004, 08:14 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by Swamee
I have heard some oil filters are a little restrictive at high RPMs. Running a thick oil would add to this problem. Just another thought.
I use the Mobil 1 M1-206 truck filter... I was using dino 20W50 for reak in and thinking maybe its breaking down under the loads.
08-10-2004, 08:16 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by Fireball
When you run it hard...temperatures rise, aluminum expands and gaps open...
If you had "loose" main bearings then this would've been even looser after hard driving. My oil pressure dropped a bit after a hard run (1/4 mile pass) for 5-10 minutes until it cooled down.
Nothing was wrong (that I could see) in my bottom end other than the main bearings were a touch loose (.003 clearance)
If you had "loose" main bearings then this would've been even looser after hard driving. My oil pressure dropped a bit after a hard run (1/4 mile pass) for 5-10 minutes until it cooled down.
Nothing was wrong (that I could see) in my bottom end other than the main bearings were a touch loose (.003 clearance)
Im just going to run it untill she lets go and figure out what to do from there. 
Nothing makes any strange noises, so it cant be that bad.. LOL
08-10-2004, 08:17 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by blacktransam
i had this prob about 1800 miles after rebuild... I changed the oil and problem solved
Ive done a couple oil changes.. like 5 for break in.
Ill see what the Redline does.
08-10-2004, 08:18 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by LS1derfull
Your oil pressure and volume are higher than stock, this can lower oil level in pan under hard extended use. But at least you need to consider oil pump pressure bypass circuit for possible sticking causing your problem, it doesnt have to be a defective pump, you could have debris that has scored the bore of bypass circuit.
but it could be a possibility, I guess.
08-11-2004, 06:51 AM
#50
FWIW ...
When my engine was built, the bearings were sized to .0015 clearance.
At 900 miles, coolant temps at 200 and oil temps at 250 still yeilds me 50psi at 1000 rpm idle. I'm running M1 5-40 SUV blend.
I run 7 qts on the stock pan. See this thread.
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...27&hl=oil+pan&
"Horsepower sells motors, Torque wins races."
Smokey Yunnick
I removed the oil level sensor from the pan and installed a temp sender in order to read oil temps.
On topic ...
The documentation I got with my ARP stud kits recommended 3 re-torques.
Again, FWIW ...
When my engine was built, the bearings were sized to .0015 clearance.
At 900 miles, coolant temps at 200 and oil temps at 250 still yeilds me 50psi at 1000 rpm idle. I'm running M1 5-40 SUV blend.
I run 7 qts on the stock pan. See this thread.
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...27&hl=oil+pan&
"Horsepower sells motors, Torque wins races."
Smokey Yunnick
I removed the oil level sensor from the pan and installed a temp sender in order to read oil temps.
On topic ...
The documentation I got with my ARP stud kits recommended 3 re-torques.
Again, FWIW ...
