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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 11:12 PM
  #21  
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Chris,

I have a 224/228 112 571/591 that you can try out and if you like it we can work something out. I've wanted to see what this cam would do in an M6 car.
BTW nice car your getting
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Spellbound
Chris,

I have a 224/228 112 571/591 that you can try out and if you like it we can work something out. I've wanted to see what this cam would do in an M6 car.
BTW nice car your getting
Duane!
how did you guess that it was me? I retired the DAREDVL thing...that license plate gave me too much crap with the local pd. I am giving that back to my dad so that he can have it again and put it on his new vette

I was thinking about trying this plate out in Florida as soon as i get there. (LSR BYS)
Err yeah you probably didnt know that. I moving pretty soon after i get back from the Desert. As well as getting married She's supporting the habit sorta..kinda like a younger version of your Teresa ..lol.. j/k

That cam sounds pretty decent from my point of view, but do you see any problems with it working with the milled heads? Jon seemed to make it seem like a big deal about them being milled. almost like you really couldnt run a cam that has more than average lift on it. Whats your oppinion?
Good to hear from ya by the way. Tell everyone that i said hi. I would but i cant get on Norcal...the computer blocks out most forums but for some reason this one still works?
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 12:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by HartAttack
Duane!
how did you guess that it was me? I retired the DAREDVL thing...that license plate gave me too much crap with the local pd. I am giving that back to my dad so that he can have it again and put it on his new vette

I was thinking about trying this plate out in Florida as soon as i get there. (LSR BYS)
Err yeah you probably didnt know that. I moving pretty soon after i get back from the Desert. As well as getting married She's supporting the habit sorta..kinda like a younger version of your Teresa ..lol.. j/k

That cam sounds pretty decent from my point of view, but do you see any problems with it working with the milled heads? Jon seemed to make it seem like a big deal about them being milled. almost like you really couldnt run a cam that has more than average lift on it. Whats your oppinion?
Good to hear from ya by the way. Tell everyone that i said hi. I would but i cant get on Norcal...the computer blocks out most forums but for some reason this one still works?
I saw your new S/N on Sacstangs and put 2 and 2 together, lol. Congrats on getting married. I will pass the word and say hi to everyone.

As far as the cam, I mis-typed the intake lift is 578. Teresa had this cam in her car and we could never tame the drivabilty with the A4, so she pulled it out for a Stealth II. Also, she ran that cam with heads that were milled .021. Like everyone has said better to play it safe and check ptv. I was going to try it out when I get my new heads, but I love my 229/229. It went 119+ in the heat.
Anyway, take care.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 04:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by HartAttack
That LPE cam was in a car that is said to be the fastest heads/cam setup in the U.S. It was comboed with the Ls6 heads that were ported by LPE...the car ran consistant 10.50's at 128! THats wild.... what makes you say that its a turbo cam ??
The huge exhaust split, relativly mild ramp and the borderline lsa designed for lower boost but able to run till 6500 rpm


Alright the TR 224/227 reverse split cam from a graph i saw seemed to be alittle more potent than the TR 224 112, and it said that its a nitrous cam.... how do yall fell about that?
I will look into the MTI X1. thanks
TR224/227 is a standard split a 227/224 would be a reverse.
Poeple confuse Nitrous cam denotation. Bigger exhaust duration is not necessary before you go bigger than 150 shot N2O after that it is required to exit more gases..
As a matter of fact, close reverse split cams tend to make more power with a wider lsa on a small shot nitrous.
Example; 228/226, .57x/.57x 116 or 117lsa
The reason is the bigger inlet charge=bigger bang=more pressure=faster exit
This is true to a certain level which is around 150 shot.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 08:34 AM
  #25  
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I have a standard-split and only run a 100shot. I think the extra exhaust duration helps a bit as I make REALLY good numbers on the squeeze. However, I agree with Predator that unless it is a full-on race car, get the N/A cam you want and just spray it...
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 02:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Spellbound
I saw your new S/N on Sacstangs and put 2 and 2 together, lol. Congrats on getting married. I will pass the word and say hi to everyone.

As far as the cam, I mis-typed the intake lift is 578. Teresa had this cam in her car and we could never tame the drivabilty with the A4, so she pulled it out for a Stealth II. Also, she ran that cam with heads that were milled .021. Like everyone has said better to play it safe and check ptv. I was going to try it out when I get my new heads, but I love my 229/229. It went 119+ in the heat.
Anyway, take care.
Thanks!

ABout the cam it sounds good. Looks like a bit bigger version of the TR 224.
The person that had the ls6 heads before Jon was running the TR 224 with it being milled and was getting about 120-122mph in the quarter. I am almost positive that the cam you have would work great with that setup. I wouldnt mind trying to work something out with you when i get back and pick the car up.
I dont suppose teresa ran her car when it had that cam though did she? What kind of mph did it get her? Thats all i am looking for.
How would someone go about checking the "ptv".
Unfortunatly Jon got the heads without to much specs on them other than them being stage 1 cnc ported heads and being milled .030. He had a shop check them out and he said they had definitly been cnc real good. But thats all he knows about them. Other than the fact that he ran the TR 224 with it.
so it can .563/.563 for sure.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 02:24 PM
  #27  
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[QUOTE=PREDATOR-Z]The huge exhaust split, relativly mild ramp and the borderline lsa designed for lower boost but able to run till 6500 rpm

QUOTE]


It sure seems to do real good on a n/a motor though...
ANyone seen that "best of tech Ls1" magazine that was out on stand about a month ago.
That car was in there along with someothers.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 07:29 PM
  #28  
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HARTATTACK-the g5x2 cam is from LG motorsports and the diff-between the two was some more lob(not as bad as one might think tho)and alot more power,driveability was about the same.for being a big cam i have NO problems at all. my mph went from 117 to 122 in the 1/4mi. i also added a ported th-body with the cam and new headers to gain .5 in the 1/4mi,it was not done by cam alone. goodluck to ya.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 08:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HartAttack
Thanks!

ABout the cam it sounds good. Looks like a bit bigger version of the TR 224.
The person that had the ls6 heads before Jon was running the TR 224 with it being milled and was getting about 120-122mph in the quarter. I am almost positive that the cam you have would work great with that setup. I wouldnt mind trying to work something out with you when i get back and pick the car up.
I dont suppose teresa ran her car when it had that cam though did she? What kind of mph did it get her? Thats all i am looking for.
How would someone go about checking the "ptv".
Unfortunatly Jon got the heads without to much specs on them other than them being stage 1 cnc ported heads and being milled .030. He had a shop check them out and he said they had definitly been cnc real good. But thats all he knows about them. Other than the fact that he ran the TR 224 with it.
so it can .563/.563 for sure.
I have the build sheet for the cam...you can have someone check all the numbers and give you a ballpark on wheather or not it will work. Unfortunately, the only way I know how to check ptv is to remove the heads...pita.
Teresa's car was never dialed in properly as far as shift points.....on a warm saturday at tnt she went 115+ in an A4. If you do use that cam and it will work ...I would like to see you up-grade your valve springs and timing chain at least. If it's close, you don't want any valve float.
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mike c.
HARTATTACK-the g5x2 cam is from LG motorsports and the diff-between the two was some more lob(not as bad as one might think tho)and alot more power,driveability was about the same.for being a big cam i have NO problems at all. my mph went from 117 to 122 in the 1/4mi. i also added a ported th-body with the cam and new headers to gain .5 in the 1/4mi,it was not done by cam alone. goodluck to ya.

I tryied to look up that cam on LG motorsports but for some reason i couldnt find it?? Can you show me a link to there site where it shows the specs?
Or if you could just post them please.

Duane,
maybe i should look at getting something like yours? The wifey likes alittle lope but doesnt want it to feel like a dragcar at every stop light shackin her breast around at idle
so for her sake i might just stick with the cam in there or get something else that is on a 114. Gotta compramise alittle i guess.
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 11:56 AM
  #31  
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If lope is the most important thing for your decision in another cam, just reduce the idle and that TR220 will lope like a mini dragster. If it is more aggressive sound, then slap a cutout and run it open.
Choosing a cam is not that simple, but the main criteria is "What is that combo used for?"
If it is for mainly street, stay with that cam. If you plan on spending every weekend at the strip then go to someting in the 230 duration range. You will sacrifice some torq down low but will shine at the track.
See if you drive your car maily on the street, the question is "What is your average operating rpm range?"
Based on that you choose your cam.

A lot of poeple have the "mine is bigger than yours syndrome" which doesn't always translate to better performance.
Each combo is designed for a specific task. Smaller durations= more torq down low, better streetability but less power on top. Bigger durations= less torq down low, less streetability but more power on top.
Too many enthusiasts look only at peak numbers, what you should look at is power under the curve and for how long that power is carried through the upper rpms before falling off (Optimum between shifts power).
The TR 220 has no split and has an excellent flat curve.
With your setup, IMO I would invest in getting those heads to a stage II from like TEA or AS, and you'll get the extra 10>15rwhp you are looking for with a professional dyno tune.
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If lope is the most important thing for your decision in another cam, just reduce the idle and that TR220 will lope like a mini dragster. If it is more aggressive sound, then slap a cutout and run it open.
Choosing a cam is not that simple, but the main criteria is "What is that combo used for?"
If it is for mainly street, stay with that cam. If you plan on spending every weekend at the strip then go to someting in the 230 duration range. You will sacrifice some torq down low but will shine at the track.
See if you drive your car maily on the street, the question is "What is your average operating rpm range?"
Based on that you choose your cam.

A lot of poeple have the "mine is bigger than yours syndrome" which doesn't always translate to better performance.
Each combo is designed for a specific task. Smaller durations= more torq down low, better streetability but less power on top. Bigger durations= less torq down low, less streetability but more power on top.
Too many enthusiasts look only at peak numbers, what you should look at is power under the curve and for how long that power is carried through the upper rpms before falling off (Optimum between shifts power).
The TR 220 has no split and has an excellent flat curve.
With your setup, IMO I would invest in getting those heads to a stage II from like TEA or AS, and you'll get the extra 10>15rwhp you are looking for with a professional dyno tune.

I have ran a 228/232 112 cam before in my old z28. I loved the way it sounded and ran, but it had idle issues everyonce and a while, and i hated being next to a cop and them looking at me all crazy because the car was shacking. Well didnt completely hate it just hoped i wouldnt get a ticket. Cali is bad about that.
Your right there are alot of people doing the mine is bigger than yours thing. I'm not about that anymore.
I just want something that makes good power around 420 area, and traps atleast 118-119 in the 1/2.
I do like to drag, but i only go maybe once every couple months or so. I mainly get late night occasional highway battles.

With the Tr 220 it has, there is still some room for inprovement. For starters the red line is at 6200 That needs to get bumped up to like 6800.
The cam makes power all the way to 6500. When i looked at the dyno graph it was still climbing when it hit the limiter.
So there is a couple more ponys to be found there. And i was going to put an electric cutout right where the Off road y-pipe came to the itermediate pipe. With that open i might get a couple more also.

I just want to car to sounds nice, get it hard when i mash it, and not have to worrry about beating C6 vetts or most of anything else running from a roll start. Thats all i ask.
There might still be some hope in the Tr 220 still. I might just see how it does with those little changes first.
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 01:11 AM
  #33  
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What is the advance in grind of the TR220? I do not think it is straight up perhaps +2 or +4 ?
You could always retard the cam at the crank if you have an adjustable timing chain and raise th ICL and move the power band upward.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
What is the advance in grind of the TR220? I do not think it is straight up perhaps +2 or +4 ?
You could always retard the cam at the crank if you have an adjustable timing chain and raise th ICL and move the power band upward.

Not really sure to be honest...anyone know?

would that g5x3 cam work with these heads?
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 07:02 PM
  #35  
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Default brand new heads & 2 new cams advise?

Does anyone see a problem with piston to valve clearance with the following set-up, The guy putting them in as done many! and my ls1tuner has 2 personal cars with the same set-up: west coast stage 1+ ls1 heads casting #241 Ported,lite bowl polished 2.02/1.57 rev valves 5 angle valve job MILLED .030 62cc chambers
Brand New Custom grind comp cams 228/228 .588/.588 114+2 .060 mls new 03 gm gaskets.
And Also have a brand new lingenfelted cam ready in case i change my mind: 218/229 .560/.560 113lsa

Thanks guys sig below
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 03:49 AM
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Best way is to measure PV clearance (Should do that anyway with any aftermarket combo.)
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 05:55 AM
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If I am not mistaken, If you milled the heads 0.030 you can only go to a 570 or 580 lift max. That is why everyone is telling you to check your Piston to Valve clearance.

Good luck,

Al
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 08:02 AM
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That is with stock pistons. Flycuting would be required.
Exemple: I ordered AFR 205's and I wanted to get 11:1 CR. 62cc Chambers (.030 mill). Right away I was told that the maximum durations i'll be able to run would be 224. So I opted for keeping the 66cc's in case I wanted to go bigger in the future (Next Year).

IMO with the 228 you will have to flycut your pistons especialy with the 2.02 valves.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 02:49 PM
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Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone.
I think the best thing to do will most likey just go with the TR 224. It was run with these heads with the previous owner of them and it ran strong 118-121 mph area depending on weather. So i might as well stick with that.
Thanks again.
-Chris
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Old Sep 6, 2004 | 06:28 PM
  #40  
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I am running to TR220/553@112+4.
My car is driven daily and the cam makes excellent low to mid range power. My car is an A4 with a 3500 Stall.

Bigger is not always better.
i'll run guys all of the time from light to light, or from a roll and they stop and ask what i am running, and these guys are running the TR224 & the TR 228 cams.

Go with the 220..... you won't be dissappointed.
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