I want a better cam, need help.
I have a 224/228 112 571/591 that you can try out and if you like it we can work something out. I've wanted to see what this cam would do in an M6 car.
BTW nice car your getting

how did you guess that it was me? I retired the DAREDVL thing...that license plate gave me too much crap with the local pd. I am giving that back to my dad so that he can have it again and put it on his new vette
I was thinking about trying this plate out in Florida as soon as i get there. (LSR BYS)

Err yeah you probably didnt know that. I moving pretty soon after i get back from the Desert. As well as getting married
She's supporting the habit sorta..kinda like a younger version of your Teresa ..lol.. j/kThat cam sounds pretty decent from my point of view, but do you see any problems with it working with the milled heads? Jon seemed to make it seem like a big deal about them being milled. almost like you really couldnt run a cam that has more than average lift on it. Whats your oppinion?
Good to hear from ya by the way. Tell everyone that i said hi. I would but i cant get on Norcal...the computer blocks out most forums but for some reason this one still works?
how did you guess that it was me? I retired the DAREDVL thing...that license plate gave me too much crap with the local pd. I am giving that back to my dad so that he can have it again and put it on his new vette
I was thinking about trying this plate out in Florida as soon as i get there. (LSR BYS)

Err yeah you probably didnt know that. I moving pretty soon after i get back from the Desert. As well as getting married
She's supporting the habit sorta..kinda like a younger version of your Teresa ..lol.. j/kThat cam sounds pretty decent from my point of view, but do you see any problems with it working with the milled heads? Jon seemed to make it seem like a big deal about them being milled. almost like you really couldnt run a cam that has more than average lift on it. Whats your oppinion?
Good to hear from ya by the way. Tell everyone that i said hi. I would but i cant get on Norcal...the computer blocks out most forums but for some reason this one still works?
As far as the cam, I mis-typed the intake lift is 578. Teresa had this cam in her car and we could never tame the drivabilty with the A4, so she pulled it out for a Stealth II. Also, she ran that cam with heads that were milled .021. Like everyone has said better to play it safe and check ptv. I was going to try it out when I get my new heads, but I love my 229/229. It went 119+ in the heat.
Anyway, take care.
I will look into the MTI X1. thanks
Poeple confuse Nitrous cam denotation. Bigger exhaust duration is not necessary before you go bigger than 150 shot N2O after that it is required to exit more gases..
As a matter of fact, close reverse split cams tend to make more power with a wider lsa on a small shot nitrous.
Example; 228/226, .57x/.57x 116 or 117lsa
The reason is the bigger inlet charge=bigger bang=more pressure=faster exit
This is true to a certain level which is around 150 shot.
As far as the cam, I mis-typed the intake lift is 578. Teresa had this cam in her car and we could never tame the drivabilty with the A4, so she pulled it out for a Stealth II. Also, she ran that cam with heads that were milled .021. Like everyone has said better to play it safe and check ptv. I was going to try it out when I get my new heads, but I love my 229/229. It went 119+ in the heat.
Anyway, take care.
ABout the cam it sounds good. Looks like a bit bigger version of the TR 224.
The person that had the ls6 heads before Jon was running the TR 224 with it being milled and was getting about 120-122mph in the quarter. I am almost positive that the cam you have would work great with that setup. I wouldnt mind trying to work something out with you when i get back and pick the car up.
I dont suppose teresa ran her car when it had that cam though did she? What kind of mph did it get her? Thats all i am looking for.
How would someone go about checking the "ptv".
Unfortunatly Jon got the heads without to much specs on them other than them being stage 1 cnc ported heads and being milled .030. He had a shop check them out and he said they had definitly been cnc real good. But thats all he knows about them. Other than the fact that he ran the TR 224 with it.
so it can .563/.563 for sure.
QUOTE]
It sure seems to do real good on a n/a motor though...
ANyone seen that "best of tech Ls1" magazine that was out on stand about a month ago.
That car was in there along with someothers.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
ABout the cam it sounds good. Looks like a bit bigger version of the TR 224.
The person that had the ls6 heads before Jon was running the TR 224 with it being milled and was getting about 120-122mph in the quarter. I am almost positive that the cam you have would work great with that setup. I wouldnt mind trying to work something out with you when i get back and pick the car up.
I dont suppose teresa ran her car when it had that cam though did she? What kind of mph did it get her? Thats all i am looking for.
How would someone go about checking the "ptv".
Unfortunatly Jon got the heads without to much specs on them other than them being stage 1 cnc ported heads and being milled .030. He had a shop check them out and he said they had definitly been cnc real good. But thats all he knows about them. Other than the fact that he ran the TR 224 with it.
so it can .563/.563 for sure.
Teresa's car was never dialed in properly as far as shift points.....on a warm saturday at tnt she went 115+ in an A4. If you do use that cam and it will work ...I would like to see you up-grade your valve springs and timing chain at least. If it's close, you don't want any valve float.
I tryied to look up that cam on LG motorsports but for some reason i couldnt find it?? Can you show me a link to there site where it shows the specs?
Or if you could just post them please.
Duane,
maybe i should look at getting something like yours? The wifey likes alittle lope but doesnt want it to feel like a dragcar at every stop light shackin her breast around at idle
so for her sake i might just stick with the cam in there or get something else that is on a 114. Gotta compramise alittle i guess.
Choosing a cam is not that simple, but the main criteria is "What is that combo used for?"
If it is for mainly street, stay with that cam. If you plan on spending every weekend at the strip then go to someting in the 230 duration range. You will sacrifice some torq down low but will shine at the track.
See if you drive your car maily on the street, the question is "What is your average operating rpm range?"
Based on that you choose your cam.
A lot of poeple have the "mine is bigger than yours syndrome" which doesn't always translate to better performance.
Each combo is designed for a specific task. Smaller durations= more torq down low, better streetability but less power on top. Bigger durations= less torq down low, less streetability but more power on top.
Too many enthusiasts look only at peak numbers, what you should look at is power under the curve and for how long that power is carried through the upper rpms before falling off (Optimum between shifts power).
The TR 220 has no split and has an excellent flat curve.
With your setup, IMO I would invest in getting those heads to a stage II from like TEA or AS, and you'll get the extra 10>15rwhp you are looking for with a professional dyno tune.
Choosing a cam is not that simple, but the main criteria is "What is that combo used for?"
If it is for mainly street, stay with that cam. If you plan on spending every weekend at the strip then go to someting in the 230 duration range. You will sacrifice some torq down low but will shine at the track.
See if you drive your car maily on the street, the question is "What is your average operating rpm range?"
Based on that you choose your cam.
A lot of poeple have the "mine is bigger than yours syndrome" which doesn't always translate to better performance.
Each combo is designed for a specific task. Smaller durations= more torq down low, better streetability but less power on top. Bigger durations= less torq down low, less streetability but more power on top.
Too many enthusiasts look only at peak numbers, what you should look at is power under the curve and for how long that power is carried through the upper rpms before falling off (Optimum between shifts power).
The TR 220 has no split and has an excellent flat curve.
With your setup, IMO I would invest in getting those heads to a stage II from like TEA or AS, and you'll get the extra 10>15rwhp you are looking for with a professional dyno tune.
I have ran a 228/232 112 cam before in my old z28. I loved the way it sounded and ran, but it had idle issues everyonce and a while, and i hated being next to a cop and them looking at me all crazy because the car was shacking. Well didnt completely hate it just hoped i wouldnt get a ticket. Cali is bad about that.
Your right there are alot of people doing the mine is bigger than yours thing. I'm not about that anymore.
I just want something that makes good power around 420 area, and traps atleast 118-119 in the 1/2.
I do like to drag, but i only go maybe once every couple months or so. I mainly get late night occasional highway battles.
With the Tr 220 it has, there is still some room for inprovement. For starters the red line is at 6200
That needs to get bumped up to like 6800.The cam makes power all the way to 6500. When i looked at the dyno graph it was still climbing when it hit the limiter.
So there is a couple more ponys to be found there. And i was going to put an electric cutout right where the Off road y-pipe came to the itermediate pipe. With that open i might get a couple more also.
I just want to car to sounds nice, get it hard when i mash it, and not have to worrry about beating C6 vetts or most of anything else running from a roll start. Thats all i ask.
There might still be some hope in the Tr 220 still. I might just see how it does with those little changes first.
You could always retard the cam at the crank if you have an adjustable timing chain and raise th ICL and move the power band upward.
You could always retard the cam at the crank if you have an adjustable timing chain and raise th ICL and move the power band upward.
Not really sure to be honest...anyone know?
would that g5x3 cam work with these heads?
Brand New Custom grind comp cams 228/228 .588/.588 114+2 .060 mls new 03 gm gaskets.
And Also have a brand new lingenfelted cam ready in case i change my mind: 218/229 .560/.560 113lsa
Thanks guys sig below
Exemple: I ordered AFR 205's and I wanted to get 11:1 CR. 62cc Chambers (.030 mill). Right away I was told that the maximum durations i'll be able to run would be 224. So I opted for keeping the 66cc's in case I wanted to go bigger in the future (Next Year).
IMO with the 228 you will have to flycut your pistons especialy with the 2.02 valves.
I think the best thing to do will most likey just go with the TR 224. It was run with these heads with the previous owner of them and it ran strong 118-121 mph area depending on weather. So i might as well stick with that.
Thanks again.
-Chris
My car is driven daily and the cam makes excellent low to mid range power. My car is an A4 with a 3500 Stall.
Bigger is not always better.
i'll run guys all of the time from light to light, or from a roll and they stop and ask what i am running, and these guys are running the TR224 & the TR 228 cams.
Go with the 220..... you won't be dissappointed.





