Just thinking of how cool a iron blocked 427 would be with a 400-500 shot!!

 

Umm from what I gather, an iron block doesnt have sleeves.

You can get 427CI from an iron block by going to a 4.06 bore and using a 4.125 crank.

Most engine builders dont like to go much over the 4.03 bore though especially if you are gonna be using nitrous.

 

werd, iron blocks don't have sleeves man. You just bore them, and to tell you the truth I wouldn't take it over .030 over (4.03), that's just me tho. If you take it .060 over then you the block can't be reused if you ever scar a cylinder. The extra cubic inches from boring it .060 is not worth the HP gain in my book unless you poop $100 bills and can afford to replace the block whenever needed (not saying you would ever have to) then go for it lol. But ya, aluminum blocks have iron sleeves because if they didn't the piston would wear and tear an aluminum cylinder faster than you can think also do to the expansion rate of aluminum as well.

-Sly

 

Nasty N8 had a iron block with MID sleeves inserted.

 

Steve @ Race Engine Development is working on sleeves for an iron block.

 

Actually, you can sleeve an iron block, but Ive only seen it done to stock bore size. Its an actual replacement cylinder if one should crack, but I havent seen them hold up too well.

If its the same structure as the aluminum block. You may be able to use the Darton setups.

 

FYI (jaenschw) A fellow Aussie has just built this;

Below are the specs of the car:

ENGINE
LS1 cast-iron block with 4.130" Darton MID Series 2 sleeves
6 bolt billet caps with added dowels for additional strength
4.0" Callies crank
6.125" Oliver Billet rods
4.130" JE custom blower pistons
8.5:1 compression
Higgins LS1 heads with Isky gold springs, titanium retainers, custom length valves
Custom rocker covers by James Young Race Engines
CompCams Solid roller custom ground cam around 270@50 / 650 lift
CompCams Solid roller lifters
T&D 1.7 shaft mounted adjustable rockers
ARP stud kit
Rollmaster timing chain
Modified LS1 pump by James Young Race Engines
High Energy LS1 8 litre sump and modified by James Young Race Engines
10% underdriven pulley
8 x Bosh coils
custom made leads

COOLING
Evans water pump
Evans race coolant
Custom PWR race radiator with in-built oil cooler-heat exchanger

INTAKE
Custom intake manifold by James Young Race Engines and F1 Performance Equipment
1 x 90mm throttle body
Custom made twin turbo system including 2 x Garret roller ball bearing turbos mounted near chassis rails, turbo manifold, dump pipes, intercooler and intercoolerer piping, etc.
1 x Race blow-off valve with in built pop-off valve. 2nd one currently being fitted.
2 x K&N 9" long 3" inlet Pods mounted either side of intercooler

ECU
Autronic SM2 1.93 with Autronic Direct Fire CDI

EXHAUST
Custom made Twin 4" stainless exhaust by F1 Performance Equipment out both sides of rear
Metal substraight 4" cats

FUEL
Custom made 8 litre swirl pot mounted in wheel well
3 x 700HP Bosh motorsport fuel pumps mounted in wheel well
SX competition fuel filter
all braided steel lines with high energy heat shielding
all fittings are speedflow
SX rising rate fuel regulator
RCI 70 litre fuel tank

DRIVELINE
McLeod Twin plate clutch
Mal Wood T56 M6 with 5/6 altered ratio and 31 spline mainshaft
Diff Technics 9" diff with TrueTrack centre by Detriot locker
Motive 3.89 diff gears
James Young Race Engines Custom made tailshaft

SUSPENSION
Noltec coil over suspension with 750 pound front springs and 200 pound rear wheel weight springs
Whiteline adjustable sway bar front and rear
Noltec bushes throughout
Chassis strengthening with custom made front/rear chassis connectors
Custom made tail shaft safety loop

WHEELS/BRAKES
18" Oz Racing Magnesium rims (from HRT427 order)
Alcon 6 piston mono block front calipers
Alcon 365mm x 32mm 2 peice front rotors
Alcon 4 piston mono block rear calipers
Alcon 330mm x 30mm 2 peice rear rotors
Braided lines and bias adjusted master cylinder

INTERIOR
Dash mounted Starter button
Custom made switch centre console with NOS, Boost, CDI and Traction control
Autronic digital dash mounted on steering wheel

 

I think I would have just bought a Lambo

I especially like this part:

I think I know where patriot gets their springs now.

 

All I see is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ signs.

Lambo would be nice as well though

 

I wonder why he didn"t get the c5 alum block???

 

Don't be silly, they are expensive!

I'm pretty certain cast iron was chosen for the rigidity with boost!

Errr, not likely. Isky Gold Stripes http://www.iskycams.com/springs.html

 

Cool. Thanks for clearing that up!

 

That whole engine is expensive, whats another 6 grand, ha,ha,I see your point castiron =stronger then aluminum me not think of that??

 

Is that Australian for "spring"? THAT's a spring! heheheee

 

The Patriots are not from Isky.They are manufactured for Patriot,not bought form a cam company.

 

isnt going to darton sleeves strong enough? why put them into a cast iron block. i would say this would be over kill. also considering that it would cost about the same to do a iron block as doing a LS1 block, i would rather get the weight saveings that the LS1 block would give me.

 

He tried that!

 

Sleevin' an iron block is no sweat, seen it done almost on a weekly basis. The main thing is to be sure that there is enough material left after boring it to the sleeve size to support it good. Most top end shops machine the block to about .003" undersize for an interferance fit to the O.D. of the sleeve and put the sleeve in dry ice to freeze shrink it and hand install the sleeve. Other shops just drive 'em in w/ a air hammer. Either way works fine as long as they leave a step at the bottom of the block so the sleeve cannot move down after time. I think on some blocks with core shift cutting .175" out of the cylinder will hit water jacket too much to properly support the sleeve. The main thing I would do is have the block sonic checked for thickness first.

 

I finished machining and installing MID sleeves into an iron block yesterday. It takes a lot longer to machine the iron block than an aluminum one - more $$$$$$$$$$. A lot harder on tooling and my back as well.

In any case, except for a very minor break through at the front of the block which I sealed (iron block core is different from the aluminum blocks) the assembly went very well.

The MID sleeves are longer than the original bore in the iron block by about an eight inch. This should help support the pistons better with stroker cranks.

I have yet to deck this block but the photo shows the sleeves installed.

Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Sponsor

 

Sleeving any block is a common practice for fixing cracked bores.