Nickn20

been there and done that!!! see pics below!



the crank and threads were fine also, it took some precision drilling on my part, did this with the motor in the car didnt take the bumper off either.

buschman

Well i finally got the old bolt out. It's FUBARed, as I'm sure most everyone expected. I plan on drilling it out and heli-coiling it tonight.

I have one question though, someone on a local board is saying I'm f'd because the Heli-coil will not hold up to 200 ft/lbs of torque. Any truth to this?

I was also thinking, would it be better to just tap the crank larger and use a bigger bolt? What if i tapped the crank large enough that i was able to use the entire length of the opening? Wouldn't that be a much strong way to go?

Thanks for the input guys,
Mike

tonyb

A heli coil will always be stronger than a tapped hole if done correctly.Less friction on the threads because the heli coils are micro-polished stainless steel.All military applications are speced with heli coils from the begining.Heli coils have a 15 time life cycle,when they wear you get a removal tool and replace it.As for the bigger bolt size,I don't know if you can find one with the correct flange size.I also wouldn't drill the snout size any larger or add more threads than 24mm because it could distort the snout where the oil pump rides and you know where that could lead.

ProStreet_632

What type of impact are you using, I had that same problem trying to get it off to change the cam but every impact I used was weak, so I used a friends and it came right out. Basically, get you one mean *** impact to do the job. And be very careful!!!!!

buschman

$47 NAPA 3/4" Drive Ratchet with 20" handle. If you need any more leverage than that, go to Home Depot speed shop and pick up one of their plumbing pipes to fit over the ratchet. With that combo you can lay down 300+ ft/lbs with one hand and little effort.

Mike

buschman

Hey Anthony,

I noticed the end of the heli-coil is notched. Am I supposed to break that off once installed? If so, how?

Mike

tonyb

I gave you that answer already but here it goes again.Th length and depth of the coil you are using will end up at nearly the end of the crank so you don't have to remove it but if you insist use a punch close to the inside diameter of the heli coil.Or one better,I think the directions are on the inside lid of the heli coil kit.I just couldn't help but be a dick.And yes you can borrow the installer .When you want it?

buschman

Here's some pics:

The tool I needed to break the bolt free.


Free is a relative term. The bolt was still stuck in the crank but at least now it's turning freely.

Here are some pics of the first method to get the bolt free. (Thanks to tonyb for the suggestion, it worked for him)







Here's the method I came up with...





Stuck bolt(Left) new bolt(Right)


Mike

code4

iTrader: (30)

I'm getting ready to remove my balancer, please tell me if there are any precautions that will prevent this from happening. Plenty of lube on the threads?

buschman

I'd say the best bet is to get a pully installer. Short of that buy two new GM crank bolts instead of one. Use one to seat the pully and the other to torque it down. These torque to yield bolts just really weren't designed for multiple usage.

Mike

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

THis is the right way to install a pulley:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/209124-pulley-install-tool.html

A piece of threaded rod, a nut, and a couple of washers. I got mine from a local bolt supply store.

It puts zero turning stress on the threads (only pulling, not twisting). It's useful for both timing chain gear and pulley installation. Well worth the $20 I spent getting the parts.

My $20 in parts was for a 3-foot section of threaded rod... I cut a 6" section to put in there to "push against" when using a puller. Another piece is for the installation "tool".

buschman

Well I got the crank pully back on tonight. The heli-coil worked perfectly. It was pretty straight forward and easy to use. The only real tricky part was getting the depth right. I had to be very precise about that. I was able to tighten her down to 200 ft/lbs. and I'm sure I could have gone to 240, but my crank is keyed so it's really overkill for me.

If anyone runs into this problem in the future give me a shout. I can give you specs on the parts I needed to fix it.

Thanks to all the guys who gave good suggestions and offers to help. Special thansk to tonyb. He was very helpful in figuring this problem out. Much appreciated.

Mike