's 
Buying a TR 224/224 112 LSA
Buying a TR 224/224 112 LSA I need so serious advice here! I new to the whole CAM thing...
MY questions...
1. I'm getting the cam w/ comp 918 springs...what else do i need?? IE pushrods, retainers, etc??
2. I've been checking out others sigs with a TR224 112 and they are trapping same as i am stock??? Not trying to be an ******* but what can i expect??
3. How much to install and would anybody be will to hook me up in NOVA? THX!
4. Will i need a tune? and if so how much?
5. Where can i pick up this stuff for cheap? TRYING to save $$$$ THX!!
MY questions...
1. I'm getting the cam w/ comp 918 springs...what else do i need?? IE pushrods, retainers, etc??
2. I've been checking out others sigs with a TR224 112 and they are trapping same as i am stock??? Not trying to be an ******* but what can i expect??
3. How much to install and would anybody be will to hook me up in NOVA? THX!
4. Will i need a tune? and if so how much?
5. Where can i pick up this stuff for cheap? TRYING to save $$$$ THX!!
You have everything you need.
People are going to suggest hardend pushrods, new oil pump, timing chain, and maybe ti retainers. These are good ideas but not required.
When I swapped my cam I only changed the springs. The car is at 83k miles and changed the cam around 65k miles. There has been no problems but the car still has the stock rev limiter.
It looks like your car runs strong stock. With cam and header youll probably trap around 116-118 in the quarter. Maybe even faster if the car is light.
People are going to suggest hardend pushrods, new oil pump, timing chain, and maybe ti retainers. These are good ideas but not required.
When I swapped my cam I only changed the springs. The car is at 83k miles and changed the cam around 65k miles. There has been no problems but the car still has the stock rev limiter.
It looks like your car runs strong stock. With cam and header youll probably trap around 116-118 in the quarter. Maybe even faster if the car is light.
Yes, tuning with that cam is a very good idea. You can either buy hptuner for $500 or pay about the same money to get it dyno tuned at a shop. The tune will fix drivability/idle issues and also get you some more power. Highly recommended.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
You'll need:
1-Cam
2-valvetrain and yes I would get hard. P-rods, because with higher spring pressures the stock ones will bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.
3- gaskets+pulley bolt
4-lubricants/coolant/oil
5- You will need a tune, just for the fact that you'll need to raise you rev limiter, idle, PE etc.... A cam without a tune is stupid.
6- Timing chain
If you do the install yourself, you are looking at $900>$1100.00 + tune
That is to do it right, no shortcuts.
1-Cam
2-valvetrain and yes I would get hard. P-rods, because with higher spring pressures the stock ones will bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.
3- gaskets+pulley bolt
4-lubricants/coolant/oil
5- You will need a tune, just for the fact that you'll need to raise you rev limiter, idle, PE etc.... A cam without a tune is stupid.
6- Timing chain
If you do the install yourself, you are looking at $900>$1100.00 + tune
That is to do it right, no shortcuts.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
You'll need:
1-Cam
2-valvetrain and yes I would get hard. P-rods, because with higher spring pressures the stock ones will bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.
3- gaskets+pulley bolt
4-lubricants/coolant/oil
5- You will need a tune, just for the fact that you'll need to raise you rev limiter, idle, PE etc.... A cam without a tune is stupid.
6- Timing chain
If you do the install yourself, you are looking at $900>$1100.00 + tune
That is to do it right, no shortcuts.
1-Cam
2-valvetrain and yes I would get hard. P-rods, because with higher spring pressures the stock ones will bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.
3- gaskets+pulley bolt
4-lubricants/coolant/oil
5- You will need a tune, just for the fact that you'll need to raise you rev limiter, idle, PE etc.... A cam without a tune is stupid.
6- Timing chain
If you do the install yourself, you are looking at $900>$1100.00 + tune
That is to do it right, no shortcuts.
what the $900 - $1100 include?? I'm getting the cam and springs for $350 so if I bought pushrods (what type and size do i need, i have no idea THX) how much would those cost to bring me up to around $1000?? THX
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
You'll need:
1-Cam
2-valvetrain and yes I would get hard. P-rods, because with higher spring pressures the stock ones will bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.
3- gaskets+pulley bolt
4-lubricants/coolant/oil
5- You will need a tune, just for the fact that you'll need to raise you rev limiter, idle, PE etc.... A cam without a tune is stupid.
6- Timing chain
If you do the install yourself, you are looking at $900>$1100.00 + tune
That is to do it right, no shortcuts.
1-Cam
2-valvetrain and yes I would get hard. P-rods, because with higher spring pressures the stock ones will bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.
3- gaskets+pulley bolt
4-lubricants/coolant/oil
5- You will need a tune, just for the fact that you'll need to raise you rev limiter, idle, PE etc.... A cam without a tune is stupid.
6- Timing chain
If you do the install yourself, you are looking at $900>$1100.00 + tune
That is to do it right, no shortcuts.
You can get the cam used but the springs i would buy brand new!!
A Comp rev kit is around $440 (springs 918's, titanium retainer, seats, pushrods) or you can get Patriot duals kit ($295+ 110 for p-rods)
Gasket + pulley bolt=$60, lubricants+coolant+oil=$50, Timing chain=$85 (Double roller), if your car is high miles 40K+ a ported oil pump $130, mail order tune=$250 but a dyno tune is like $500, So:
250+440+60+50+85+130=$1015 for a used cam and all the above not including the tune.
If you do good research and get good deals 900~1100 is a realistic ballbark for a cam swap.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If you are getting cam and springs for $350 you are buying it used.
You can get the cam used but the springs i would buy brand new!!
A Comp rev kit is around $440 (springs 918's, titanium retainer, seats, pushrods) or you can get Patriot duals kit ($295+ 110 for p-rods)
Gasket + pulley bolt=$60, lubricants+coolant+oil=$50, Timing chain=$85 (Double roller), if your car is high miles 40K+ a ported oil pump $130, mail order tune=$250 but a dyno tune is like $500, So:
250+440+60+50+85+130=$1015 for a used cam and all the above not including the tune.
If you do good research and get good deals 900~1100 is a realistic ballbark for a cam swap.
You can get the cam used but the springs i would buy brand new!!
A Comp rev kit is around $440 (springs 918's, titanium retainer, seats, pushrods) or you can get Patriot duals kit ($295+ 110 for p-rods)
Gasket + pulley bolt=$60, lubricants+coolant+oil=$50, Timing chain=$85 (Double roller), if your car is high miles 40K+ a ported oil pump $130, mail order tune=$250 but a dyno tune is like $500, So:
250+440+60+50+85+130=$1015 for a used cam and all the above not including the tune.
If you do good research and get good deals 900~1100 is a realistic ballbark for a cam swap.
If going mild cam, just get cam/retainers/springs and tune. No need to spend extra on pushrods, timing chain, oil pump.
My standard oil pump had 60psi at 800rpm idle, why would you want more?
Timing chain and pushrods are fine on mild cam setups.
My standard oil pump had 60psi at 800rpm idle, why would you want more?
Timing chain and pushrods are fine on mild cam setups.
I bought my cam used and bought new 918's. Definitly buy new springs. If they fail it can seriously hurt the engine. Other things I bought was crank bolt for the balancer and gaskets for the water pump. All the other gaskets were reusable.
I was gonna buy hardened pushrods but ran out of money. The reason they get bent when a stock engine hits the rev limiter is because the valves float and the pistons bump the valves. As long as you have the proper springs, valve float wont be a problem. My concern is that the stock push rods might deflect with high lift cams reducing lift at the valve. This will cost some hp. If you have the money buy the push rods. If not you can always get them later and are easy to change.
Titanium retainers dont weigh much less than the stock ones. The stock retainers are very small. This makes them light even when made out of steel. If youre gonna spend the money on ti retainers, might as well go all out and get some patriot doubles. It wont be that much more.
A good tune is worth the money. Since the tr224 is a popular cam you might be able to get away with a cheap mail order tune. Its not like GM dyno tunes every car b4 sale right? However is the mail tune is off youve basically pissed your money away. The best way to do it is do all your bolt on mods first then swap the cam and get it tuned.
Ive been lucky, Ive been driving around with a stock tune with no problems other the rev limiter being in the way. It even gets 20mpg driving to work in light traffic and 30 on the highway. It does run too rich at idle though. After I finish all my bolt ons Im gonna get it tuned.
Anyways good luck. Hope you save some money.
I was gonna buy hardened pushrods but ran out of money. The reason they get bent when a stock engine hits the rev limiter is because the valves float and the pistons bump the valves. As long as you have the proper springs, valve float wont be a problem. My concern is that the stock push rods might deflect with high lift cams reducing lift at the valve. This will cost some hp. If you have the money buy the push rods. If not you can always get them later and are easy to change.
Titanium retainers dont weigh much less than the stock ones. The stock retainers are very small. This makes them light even when made out of steel. If youre gonna spend the money on ti retainers, might as well go all out and get some patriot doubles. It wont be that much more.
A good tune is worth the money. Since the tr224 is a popular cam you might be able to get away with a cheap mail order tune. Its not like GM dyno tunes every car b4 sale right? However is the mail tune is off youve basically pissed your money away. The best way to do it is do all your bolt on mods first then swap the cam and get it tuned.
Ive been lucky, Ive been driving around with a stock tune with no problems other the rev limiter being in the way. It even gets 20mpg driving to work in light traffic and 30 on the highway. It does run too rich at idle though. After I finish all my bolt ons Im gonna get it tuned.
Anyways good luck. Hope you save some money.
Bought a complete cam package from TSP back in July. 225 cam, Patriot duals, Titanium retainers, hardened pushrods, hardened springseats, super 7 locks, cam swap gasket kit. $717.94 to my door. Labor: myself Only had 19,000 miles on car so no need for oilpump (great oil pressure) or timing chain. Tuning is just part of it, get the best deal from a REPUATABILE tuner and live with it. Good luck!!!!
I bought the cam used for ~$300 and then purchased tr's cam install kit with ,918 springs, gaskets, main pulley bolt, titanium retainers and hardened pushrods. My car goes in for a tune wednesday and after seeing how lean it was down low on the dyno, i would reccomend it. Also when the car is cold i have to give it some throttle for about a minute before it will idle on its own. The tune will also give some more rpm's to work with, my car's hp #'s seemed to still be climbing at the factory rev limit.
