solid roller vs. hydraulic for street - pro,s and con's?
#1
solid vs. hydraulic for street - pro,s and con's?
what are the differences!
if i wanted more power but also street driven 95% of the time, can i still drive for quite a while with out adjusting anything or is it constant!
I am building a 408 stroker for the street. This is why i am asking these questions!
Thanks
if i wanted more power but also street driven 95% of the time, can i still drive for quite a while with out adjusting anything or is it constant!
I am building a 408 stroker for the street. This is why i am asking these questions!
Thanks
Last edited by badls1vert; 09-28-2004 at 10:11 PM.
#2
not to sound stupid, but how do you set the valve lash and how hard is it to do?
so i can go with a bigger cam with a solid set-up, is there any drivability differences for street driving between the 2 ?
so i can go with a bigger cam with a solid set-up, is there any drivability differences for street driving between the 2 ?
#3
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Valve lash isn't that bad. Take valve cover off (hopefully you've relocated your coilpacks ), bump motor over until both valves are closed, and use a feeler gauge to set the lash (with a 12-point wrench and an allan wrench for my T&Ds). Takes about half an hour.
As for street driving, no problems here. Try having a 250/244 108LSA hydraulic cam idle at 850 RPMs on the street. My solid does it just fine.
As for street driving, no problems here. Try having a 250/244 108LSA hydraulic cam idle at 850 RPMs on the street. My solid does it just fine.
#4
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Setting valve lash isn't that hard, once someone shows or tells you how to do it. The difference between the two drivability wise will be the difference in hte two cams themselves. If you pick a aggressive solid it will have different characteristics than the the mild hyd roller. But you will gain power with the solid. It's really a give or take between the two.
#6
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I actually find setting "lash" to be 50000000000000 times easier than setting preload. When you do a hydraulic cam you have to brake out a dial indicator and measure. With solid lifters you just grab a feeler gauge, jam it under the rocker tip, and set everything......simple and fast (thought checking HOT lash on a fully heated up engine can be a trick ).......
In addition to solid lifters, you will need an adjustable rocker setup (preferably shaft mount) and heavier springs. Some people go up to 7/16" pushrods. I (and a lot of engine builders I know) don't feel this is necessary for most street applications but it makes people feel better so oh well...
In addition to solid lifters, you will need an adjustable rocker setup (preferably shaft mount) and heavier springs. Some people go up to 7/16" pushrods. I (and a lot of engine builders I know) don't feel this is necessary for most street applications but it makes people feel better so oh well...
#7
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a solid roller may make more power but for a 95% street vehicle i would stay hydrualic.you will probably lose only 10-20 rwhp anyways,that wouldn't even be noticed on the street.i have a solid roller in my 3rd gen and setting valve lash every few weeks aint no fun. if you're not mechanically inclined definitely go h r. if you want the max power and don't mind the valvetrain noise you can't beat the s r.