Cam advice? Split, reverse split or equal?
Originally Posted by SportSide 5.3
hmmm. interesting. happen to know what lobe profile the reverse split uses?
wonder if its a lazy lobe causing the lack of performance. might be part of the problem. or lack of a good choice of VE's were used maybe.
good comparo none the less.
wonder if its a lazy lobe causing the lack of performance. might be part of the problem. or lack of a good choice of VE's were used maybe.
good comparo none the less.
Originally Posted by gomer
the peak numbers weren't worth a **** and the midrange wasn't all that great either. A reverse split works good up to about 4,800 or 5,000 then it is all down hill from there. If you have a problem with my dyno queen numbers or my track times, you know how to PM me... and I'll be at the thunder shootout *******
X1 cam is a reverse split and is known for 10's with stage 2 heads
I have a Stealth II which is also a reverse split and my car dynoed 404/383 cam only + FULL bolt ons.
Just because you keep swapping cams on the same set up, it doesn't mean they are all going to perform at their best. If you analyse your combo you'll realise that. It is not hard to figure out that some cams are not matched to the rest of your setup. A motor combo is parts that are closely related to each other to perform at their best.
Very true...
On that note though...What's with all you every poney counts/maximum effort gurus out there paying $400 for a shelf cam and 'good' results, when you could pay the same for a 100% custom cam ground to your head/intake/ect. specs and reap the maximum? I just can't seem to grasp the concept. It baffles me...
On that note though...What's with all you every poney counts/maximum effort gurus out there paying $400 for a shelf cam and 'good' results, when you could pay the same for a 100% custom cam ground to your head/intake/ect. specs and reap the maximum? I just can't seem to grasp the concept. It baffles me...
If an engine has a very good exhaust port, in the 80% range of the intake, then a reverse split is the best option. Reverse splits are common in the foreign cars where some exhaust ports flow as much as 90% of the intake. Duration difference in these cases can be 15 degrees more favoring the intake side.
So I disagree with what you posted also Gomer, but thats what makes this board. I would also like to thank you for the help you have given me Gomer on some other matters.
Chris
So I disagree with what you posted also Gomer, but thats what makes this board. I would also like to thank you for the help you have given me Gomer on some other matters.
Chris
Originally Posted by Cstraub
If an engine has a very good exhaust port, in the 80% range of the intake, then a reverse split is the best option. Reverse splits are common in the foreign cars where some exhaust ports flow as much as 90% of the intake. Duration difference in these cases can be 15 degrees more favoring the intake side.
So I disagree with what you posted also Gomer, but thats what makes this board. I would also like to thank you for the help you have given me Gomer on some other matters.
Chris
So I disagree with what you posted also Gomer, but thats what makes this board. I would also like to thank you for the help you have given me Gomer on some other matters.
Chris
Gomer,
That is why I give primary size (ID x Length), and collector size along with the camshaft. . .you know I am all for the combo. So a solid roller in your near future?
Chris
That is why I give primary size (ID x Length), and collector size along with the camshaft. . .you know I am all for the combo. So a solid roller in your near future?
Chris
There aren't many in the 80% range. You figure with 300cfm intake ports, you'd need 240cfm exhausts ports. With a 320cfm intake, you'd need a 256cfm exhaust. This is @ the least. Not much of anything available can offer an 80% variance of intake to exhaust. I for one must rule out the reverse split for most LS-1 apps.
Originally Posted by Cstraub
Gomer,
That is why I give primary size (ID x Length), and collector size along with the camshaft. . .you know I am all for the combo. So a solid roller in your near future?
Chris
That is why I give primary size (ID x Length), and collector size along with the camshaft. . .you know I am all for the combo. So a solid roller in your near future?
Chris
Nose,
Bolt the intake on the heads and flow the intake port. . .flow drops. Bolt the header on the head and flow it. . .most of the time it picks up. So, there are some 80% out there. I'm just ribbing Gomer a little about the solid.
Chris
Bolt the intake on the heads and flow the intake port. . .flow drops. Bolt the header on the head and flow it. . .most of the time it picks up. So, there are some 80% out there. I'm just ribbing Gomer a little about the solid.
Chris
Bolt the intake on the heads and flow the intake port. . .flow drops.
Cstraub. Why, do so many go with the large standard splits? Or more important, why are so many sold?
Your exhaust flow will determine whether or not you want a reverse split.
But that's high $$$ stuff, most of us want an off the shelf cam that fits our application, not to have a cam spec'd out to match our head flow/rest of our setup.
Gomer, I have a question. That little B1 cam made almost the same power as the 232/230? And the F13 made 33 more RWHP? That's says something about all 3 of those cams, at least in that setup.
But that's high $$$ stuff, most of us want an off the shelf cam that fits our application, not to have a cam spec'd out to match our head flow/rest of our setup.
Gomer, I have a question. That little B1 cam made almost the same power as the 232/230? And the F13 made 33 more RWHP? That's says something about all 3 of those cams, at least in that setup.
Originally Posted by z98
Your exhaust flow will determine whether or not you want a reverse split.
But that's high $$$ stuff, most of us want an off the shelf cam that fits our application, not to have a cam spec'd out to match our head flow/rest of our setup.
Gomer, I have a question. That little B1 cam made almost the same power as the 232/230? And the F13 made 33 more RWHP? That's says something about all 3 of those cams, at least in that setup.
But that's high $$$ stuff, most of us want an off the shelf cam that fits our application, not to have a cam spec'd out to match our head flow/rest of our setup.
Gomer, I have a question. That little B1 cam made almost the same power as the 232/230? And the F13 made 33 more RWHP? That's says something about all 3 of those cams, at least in that setup.
A close pal of mine recently stepped up to the custom plate for his Vette. He had a 230/236 comp 'shelf' grind that was making some killer power. I eventually talked him into having comp grind him one with the same specs, only to his heads. He unleashed 11rwhp and 8rwtq. Again, same 230/236-.59x/.59x-112 XE-R design, just made to match his combo. What are some of you guys paying for an 8rw throttle body? $500?
Take it how you'd like, just my opinion...
Last edited by NoseUpChromeDown; Oct 7, 2004 at 10:32 PM.
How was it made "to his heads"? Shouldn't two cams with identical specs and identical lobes make the same power?
Didn't know it was so cheap. I saw a package deal where someone had your heads flowed and matched your cam specs to that, thought it was in the $700+ range, not sure what all it included though.
Didn't know it was so cheap. I saw a package deal where someone had your heads flowed and matched your cam specs to that, thought it was in the $700+ range, not sure what all it included though.
Originally Posted by SportSide 5.3
I don't think many are aware of this.
Cstraub. Why, do so many go with the large standard splits? Or more important, why are so many sold?
Cstraub. Why, do so many go with the large standard splits? Or more important, why are so many sold?
I just did an LS1 profile that was a single pattern at .050, but at .200 the intake is bigger then the exhaust, so don't always look at the .050" numbers, as Ed, Jay Allen, and a few others know, .050" tappet height isn't the "magic" number it is marketed as.
Chris
Originally Posted by z98
How was it made "to his heads"? Shouldn't two cams with identical specs and identical lobes make the same power?
Didn't know it was so cheap. I saw a package deal where someone had your heads flowed and matched your cam specs to that, thought it was in the $700+ range, not sure what all it included though.
Didn't know it was so cheap. I saw a package deal where someone had your heads flowed and matched your cam specs to that, thought it was in the $700+ range, not sure what all it included though.
@ .050, they're the same, but @ different lifts, the grinds are different. Not easy to explain (by me anyway), but that's how it goes...
I've never heard of heads being matched to a cam. Definitely not something I'd want...Get the best heads you can-usually for your budget's allowance, and then have the cam ground to the specs of your heads and intake if the heads were flowed through the intake you will be using. That'd get you even better performance than ground just per head specs.
I just did an LS1 profile that was a single pattern at .050, but at .200 the intake is bigger then the exhaust, so don't always look at the .050" numbers
btw, Chris.
It's relative new idea for production cars out of Detroit to have such good exhaust numbers.
Last edited by SportSide 5.3; Oct 8, 2004 at 03:51 PM.


. Target 750rwhp on a 2 stage wet 300 shot. 
Got me there...That didn't even cross my mind
100% correct...