Why don't you just go with a custom cam. I recommend Comp, but that's just a personal opinion. There's no such a thing as a perfect 'shelf' cam. It's ALWAYS best to have one ground to your head specs.

 

what kinda time whould 500rwhp put me in in a car with some weight reduction

 

theres no static calculation, just gotta get out there and run. to many variables to could of, would of, should of.

 

http://www.battleoftheimports.com/cl...battlecalc.htm

http://www.web-cars.com/math/qtr_mile.html

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4601/hpcalc.html

http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/dangrou...horsecalc.html

MANY more where those came from. Pick one...

 

Not 100% accurate, but a starting point...

 

JRP brings up an excellent point here. Power isn't the only thing that determines your ET. Gearing and Raceweight are also HUGE factors. If you figure that 01-Z is making 440RWHP (I actually have no idea how much he's making) his car has to be very light and geared for the track to run a 10.6.

Another good example is Lee's (FEAR THE LS1) setup. He made 481 RWHP and 545 RWTQ and at a 3,470lb raceweight went 10.36 @ 131. Keep in mind he made that power through a TH400, 4" Steel Driveshaft, 12-Bolt, and 29" Slicks. At a 3,280lb raceweight he went a 10.11 @ 132 MPH. A 200lb drop in raceweight gained him .2, which is huge when you're in a class as close as Factory Stock.

The point here is that there is more to going fast than making good dyno numbers.

 

Didn't he say he was running a 4400 stall allready? Hence he has an auto. I might be thinking wrong here, but 500 rwhp is hard enough to hit on an m6, but an auto? I can't see that happening. Not on a 346 anyways, but who knows.

 

Let's take Lee's car as our starting point. Change out the steel rods for aluminum rods, switch to low-tension rings, add a vacume pump and a dry-sump oiling system, a sheet-metal intake manifold, a little more compression and that'll get you over the 500RWHP hump, even through a less than efficient drivetrain.

All it takes is $$$ and a willingness to have a 'track-only' car.

 

Sounds like it. Cool info.

 

that is not true. you just can not use milled heads. a trex will respond very nicely to heads just as any other cam will.

 

What about the use of 2.02/2.055 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves?

 

I think APE had 383 shorts on special for 3700 or something?

 

Talk to the guys at HPE, the will hook you up.

 

I hope you mean that the T-ReX was never designed to run with modified cylinder heads without flycut pistons, not simply that it was designed for use strictly in stock-headed applications.

Josh

 

I don't think Thunder Racing ever designed this cam to be used with modified cylinder heads. If so, the cam wouldn't be as radical as it is.

Sure you can fly-cut the pistons and use modified cylinder heads, but that's never what this cam was designed for. It just happens to work.

 

KCB, or should I say, Mr. Crapbox, is making sense here...It's just like having a custom cam ground for the flow numbers/specs of a set of modded heads, only this was made to take full advantange of the factory heads' flow capabilities. For obvious reasons, it still makes great power with modified heads-it's a beafy cam, just not as great as some other grinds as it wasn't directed towards modified heads.

 

with a 4400 stall, good luck getting 500rwhp

 

We made 503/455 with Lou's G5X3 pkg. With a FAST90, Lou's headers, and all the bolt ons.

Now, the big thing is a good set of heads (AS, GTP, AFR225's, etc..), and a cam matched to those heads. I think you can go past 500 with a hyd roller, but you can't just look at more duration as the criteria for design.

I have some ideas in this area for some max effort stuff.

 

Hey J-Rod, could you give us a little insight on what it took to get that much power? Full exhaust? Full Belts? Octane? Timing? Dyno tricks? Stock bottom end?

 

Yes, Please do...That 455rwtq tagged with that much power is very impressive.