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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 11:28 PM
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Default newb stroker questions

I have a 98 z28 and I'm trying to figure out the best way to keep the alum. block, but beef it up. I don't want to resleeve, it's a little pricy on alum. blocks, what's the biggest stroker kit available without resleeving? I searched the forums and all it was doing was making me more confused, any help would be appreciated

-erik
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 12:11 AM
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if you've searched what makes you think the info we give you wont make you more confused?

anway, biggest kit available w/o resleaving is the lunati 395ci rotating assembly, its for a 3.905 bore and uses a 4.125 stroke. how much are you looking to spend?
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 12:27 AM
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would like to be under 10, but I also need heads/cam/clutch/rear dunno if 10 will be enough for everything...
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 12:31 AM
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also, I want to start out all motor... get over 500 on pump, get another daily driver, then begin the real fun would that be safely attained with the 392, I need something somewhat reliable...
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 12:49 AM
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10k wont cut it, i've spent damn near 10k for my forged 347, h/c, fuel system, clutch, ect. and im still on the stock 10 bolt. are you refering to rwhp or crank hp?
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 06:53 AM
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I agree with JRP...I spent $10k on mine. 480rwhp/440tq 92 octane
You have a choice on what quality parts too..you can get the shortblock for around $6k assembled from a bunch of places including APE, More, LS1SPEED etc. Check their web prices...talk to them You wont save much putting it together yourself til you buy all the tools/gages/misc ****.
Then you need good heads and good cam/timing set/valvetrain, good intake/TB, Fuel system, 36lb injectors, clutch etc...it all adds up and you cant skimp. ~11:1 will be needed for 500rwhp, stout cam and it can still be a daily driver.
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 07:35 AM
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thanks for the input guys
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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what kind of times do you get sam? 1/8 and 1/4?
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 11:35 AM
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Havent run yet but hope to next weekend. Not all cars are the same or tracks...track where I run is .3/3mph slower than faster tracks like Maple Grove and Cecil but its cheap.
Im completely happy with my setup. I went the radical cam route for the sound and gave up some driveability...but its still good enough for me everyday on pump gas. I left hp on the table with LS1 heads vs. smaller cc LS6 heads and higher compression. That would have given me over 500rwhp easy but the $$ was too much for me to finish at the time. Dont get hung up on 500rwhp. A 383 or 395 with 11:1, GOOD heads, ~240 .600 lift cam, LS6 intake and 85mmTB, and good long tubes will get you there tuned right. None of those are extreme. That will cost you $9k of your $10k.
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 06:35 PM
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dumb question...

http://www.dallasexportsales.com/RALS1408.htm

does that not need sleeving? further more... as far as being stable, how is the 395? anyone have one? the 408? anyone?
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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I would guess the 408 is an iron block which doesn't need sleeving...this would be a more economical way to get cubic inches, but adds some extra weight.
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by burritoboy9984
dumb question...

http://www.dallasexportsales.com/RALS1408.htm

does that not need sleeving? further more... as far as being stable, how is the 395? anyone have one? the 408? anyone?

That looks like the Lunati 408 kit to me (Part number and pricing). Yes, it would require resleeving the block. The $3415 is only for the rotating ***'y parts. Add about $2500 to that kit for sleeves and machining. Also, at that point for about the same cost you can go up to 427. I was thinking about doing that at one point, and I might later on down the road unless the guys at Lunati talk me into their 454 LS1 rotating ***'y

David
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