Rebuild Qs
Rebuild Qs doing heads and a t-rex cam, dont have the $ for the stroker motor yet so plan on doing a rebuild so it will last a year or so. these are the parts i will need if theres anything let me no. just gona re bearing it plastic gauge it to make shure my clearance are ok
1 main and rod bearings
2 ported oil pump
3 timing chain
4 roller ligters
5 push rods
6 arp rod and main bolts
7 cam and heads (already have)
8 gasgets
am i missing anything. i will do a compression test first to see where i am if i need new rings and go from there.
1 main and rod bearings
2 ported oil pump
3 timing chain
4 roller ligters
5 push rods
6 arp rod and main bolts
7 cam and heads (already have)
8 gasgets
am i missing anything. i will do a compression test first to see where i am if i need new rings and go from there.
Actually, just go ahead and drain out the oil and run it until it blows up.
If you're not going to use a proper set of micrometers and measure the clearances right, you'll get the same result...but the no oil way will be cheaper.
If you're not going to use a proper set of micrometers and measure the clearances right, you'll get the same result...but the no oil way will be cheaper.
Plastigauge will work fine. I've used it many times on the lil geo metro 1.0 liter engines that I've built (they run about 7~7500 RPM). I'm no expert on the LS1, as I am only building my first, but its the same idea. The most important thing is torquing everything down correctly, and repeating the same torque values/angles.
I went out and bought all the tools, and still used it anyway. The bore gauges and calipers showed me that my tolerances were within .0002" (+-.0001) between the mains (.0017~.0019) and the plastigauge showed it to be in between .0015 and .002 (closer to .002). The plastigauge wont be able to show you the tolerances/differences between each bearing. Does it show that you are within spec? Yes, and unless you are trying to match the tolerances between several sets of bearings sets, you should be OK.
The one thing that I would recommend is a torque angle tool, I picked up a cheapy on ebay for $8. Its a lot easier than marking the bolt & block with a marker. You can use feeler gauges instead of a dial indicator for measuring crankshaft endplay (I already had one, but I did it both ways anyway).
Another tip that I can give that helped me out is to number all bolts with a sharpee (permanent marker) so you can go along and torque them down. Before I did that, I would walk over to my workbench and memorize a few bolts tighten them and walk back (yes, short term mem problems here
)
HTH
David
I went out and bought all the tools, and still used it anyway. The bore gauges and calipers showed me that my tolerances were within .0002" (+-.0001) between the mains (.0017~.0019) and the plastigauge showed it to be in between .0015 and .002 (closer to .002). The plastigauge wont be able to show you the tolerances/differences between each bearing. Does it show that you are within spec? Yes, and unless you are trying to match the tolerances between several sets of bearings sets, you should be OK.
The one thing that I would recommend is a torque angle tool, I picked up a cheapy on ebay for $8. Its a lot easier than marking the bolt & block with a marker. You can use feeler gauges instead of a dial indicator for measuring crankshaft endplay (I already had one, but I did it both ways anyway).
Another tip that I can give that helped me out is to number all bolts with a sharpee (permanent marker) so you can go along and torque them down. Before I did that, I would walk over to my workbench and memorize a few bolts tighten them and walk back (yes, short term mem problems here
) HTH
David