383 stroker or allbore?
Both the stroker and all bore are going to have forged internals (probably, anyway), with the exception being that the stroked engine will have a forged crank as well. That's probably not a big deal unless you're going with a serious forced induction setup and/or plan on spraying more than a 250 shot of nitrous, in which case you probably want a forged crank.
The stroker engine is going to give you a lot more torque than the all bore. The all bore is going to give you a lot more horsepower than the stroker.
If you look at MTI's setup, the 383 stroker is about $500 more expensive than the 387 all bore, but the all bore requires an extra $500 worth of headwork to be done. So, the net cost is about the same if you're buying heads at the same time. If you already have heads, and they're not ideal for big bore applications, you might be better off (cheaper, anyway) going with the stroker. If your heads are set up for big bore applications, or if you're going to buy heads anyway, I think the all bore will be about the same price, and in *my* opinion, more fun.
I couldn't decide either, so when I'm ready I think I'm going to go with a 427. Bore + Stroke = HP + TQ = more fun than is legally allowed. =)
Jonny
382 Stroker and I drive it everyday (about 100 miles a day) for 1.5 years! Still pulls the same power!
Look at my sig. for more info. Also, I pulled 571 rwhp and 747 rwtq with NX MAF kit (100 shot) <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
I plan on getting the MTI resleaved block, a set of forged pistons, and then just having a local shop (who did my heads) "check over" and do any minor work needed to bring the factory crank and rods up to speck (install new rod bolts and convert to floating pins). I don't want to spin past 6500 RPM anyways (want engine to have a long lifespan) and the crank/rods will easily handle a good 650 or so hp (I don't need/want more than that).
Chris
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Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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YOu certainly can use your stock LS1 heads but your motor will be choked for air flow and your car will not be making nearly the hp/tq it will make when you get some kick *** heads on the motor.
Goodluck,
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
<strong> Is it necessary to get a resleeved block to build a stroker rather than an all bore? Can I just run a cleaning bore on my old sleeves? Also, could I run my stock heads until I have the budget allowances to upgrade to a set of stage 2's or 3's??
Thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I think I understand what your saying (correct me if I'm wrong). You are asking "does one have to get a resleaved block when building a stroker motor?"
The answer to that would be no. The idea of a stroker motor is to leave the bore stock (0.005 or so clean up on the bore) and just make the throw on the crank more (more stroke).
The resleaved block comes in when you want to get a larger bore (ex: 383 all bore motors). The stroke stays the same (unless you are going even larger...ex: 427) and the pistons just get bigger.
You can use factory heads on a larger CI engine (stock 5.7 heads on a 383 stroker motor). The engine will just never produce near the power it could with ported/polished/valved heads.
I am going the other way around. I had my heads ported, polished, and had 2.08"/1.60" valves put in. For now, they are on a stock short block 346 (droped low end torque but high RPM is crazy). When I get the money, I will up to a supercharger for a couple pounds of boost. Then once everything else is upgraded, the final move will be to either a 383 all bore or a 427 (bore and stroke).
Chris


