ArticLS1z

i ran 12.1 @109+ with the mods in my sig less the LT's so i guess that proves u wrong

MysticZ28

Hell ... I ran that on bolt ons ...

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Interesting opinion. I gained 15-20rwhp & shaved about a 10th off my et with my Hot cam, and got the same all over again from 1.8 rockers that give the Hot Cam .555 lift. And to date I run stock heads. So I guess I disagree.....

And IF you like the NASTY idle the Hot Cam has like I do, but you want more power, like say a 224 cam gives you, then go with new rockers like I did. You need to upgrade the valve train anyway if you want to run the higher rpms (which is where you'll see all the new hp a cam gives you). It's another point of view to consider.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

Seems like a lot of money to spend(rockers +hc), where you could just go buy a cam spec'd right, and call it a done deal.

You wont make a hotcam turn into a 224 w/ rollers.

screamin00ss

i wasnt saying that, i was mocking the other guy who said that..........

Bill's 02 Z-28 SS

Hi Folks
As pointed out, everybody has different requirements. I have the 02 LS6 cam and the GM ported LS6 heads, the combination is not bad. The car pulls hard after 3000 and once the car goes into second and above, the engine never drops below 4000. To me it is not bad and now I have a major traction problem with the stock tires.
Bill

Another_User

Not totally pointless...just less than optimal if you have the choice between a little more lift or a little more duration on stock heads.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

then keep the stock cam in there

SlowTA

small gains in power and sound = teh win for some people

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I know, I was trying to capture both sentiments at once. Sorry!

As for why do rockers + a HC, I like the added piece of mind that after market rockers give me. I have NO faith in stock rockers @ 6500rpm (or above). So in my omion, if your installing a cam that will spin that high, you gotta replace them.

And my combo seems to be pretty good. I plotted it against an AFR & PP & MTI dyno chart & came out last at the top end because of my stock heads, but I was right there until 5k. Once I get my heads reworked, I figure I'll do better. And they were all running 224 type cams with LSX intakes. I made this chart while researching which heads to buy.

I'll post the chart again here for anyone that's interested. This chart doesn't show the 475HP MTI kit dyno, but it was a little above mine all across the band. Note that I was on a chassis dyno with my A4 so I didn't get to nail it until after 3k.

BlueSix

How is it less than optimal? Do the 10 second cam only cars keep the lift to .525?

If you are looking for a good cam upgrade, but dont want to go big, look at a 220/220 cam, or even the TR224 on a 114LSA.

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

Here's my input: do some research and find something you know you're going to be happy with.

Call a cam grinder and tell them what you want, see what they say.

I've had my C1 (222/222) in since June and I love it (just another small/reliable cam option...).

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

man if only i was one of those ppl!!

"go big or go home"

"do it right or don't do it at all"

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

you mean mid/high 10's?

BlueSix

No, those don't count. They use over .600 lift, and we all know .600>.525, and we all know that over .525 lift not optimal.

Another_User

10 second cam-only cars are pushing the extreme. And they are obviously going to be set up less than optimally, because with the type of cam it takes to put a stock head car into the 10s they would make a ton more power with a head swap. The cams you mention are great cams, and they normally don't go too high in lift. The point is, after .525 lift the stock LS1 heads don't flow but a few cfm more which is pointless compared to adding a few degrees of duration.

SidewayzOZ

iTrader: (11)

Yeah but if you want to keep a cam streetable with a bigger duration you need more lift.

Bombguy99z28

I have the hotcam in my car... It was mostly the problem of having my engine rebuilt while I was overseas, and the shop wasn't very LS1 knowledgable. I figured they couldn't mess up GM part numbers, etc.

My car is pretty tame, I have no real mods (JBA shorties, ORP, 3" catback, lid). With tuning I got 351/348 thru 4.10s on 17x11 ZR1s, and I'm pretty happy with that, with stock heads, stock ls1 intake, stock throttlebody.

About the Hotcam, you do need tuning to really see the power out of it. I picked up 30rwhp and 20rwtq peak and even more low-midrange.

BUT I will say this, the Hotcam has a good sound and is very low lift, you won't have much wear or tear on the valve train. Those are the good things about it. But for almost any application there is a better cam out there. I would only recommend this cam to someone who wants a cam sound and still make 100,000 miles on their valvetrain, and doesn't really care if he gets 20rwhp or 60rwhp out of it.

I'm switching to either a 224/224 @ 114 or 220/220 @ 114 (making a CA smog legal setup)

Another_User

You said the important part though, the power under the curve. That was what I was looking for, so it worked out well. If peak numbers is what you want look elsewhere. But the hotcam sure is fun for around town.

screamin00ss

there are big cams that give great power under the curve, in every area over the hotcam...if youre just doin it for sound then get a hotcam and leave it untuned...but if youre gonna go through that trouble then why go for such a small cam...its kind of a waste unless youre doin it for emissions reasons, but thats my opinion, and opinions are like buttholes