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help on cylinder leak down test

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Old 10-24-2004, 09:38 PM
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Default help on cylinder leak down test

Doing a little make over on my 2000 SS. I am doing a leak down. How long should it take for 100 psi dry air to leak out of a cylinder? please help! When I brought it down I thought I had scorched some valves and they were a little pitted. Just added heads, 232-238 , 114 cam, new tranny with all the goodies, 3600 stall, long tubes and 4.10s. I sure would hate to tear it back down. By the way I do all my own work so labor is at least free.
Old 10-24-2004, 09:50 PM
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This does not help you... and I hate to get off topic, but how do you go about a cylinder leakdown test?
Old 10-24-2004, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by derek_silvy
This does not help you... and I hate to get off topic, but how do you go about a cylinder leakdown test?
Take a compression gauge and add a connection for air pressure. Pressurise the cylinder , valve out the air and wait. My problem is I'm loosing pressure into the crank case. I just need to know how much is acceptable. It really hurts because of all the new work.
Old 10-24-2004, 10:20 PM
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That sucks man. So you just bring to TDC (to close valves, and see how much gets blown by? Some leakdown is completely normal right?
Old 10-24-2004, 10:40 PM
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Well first off, you should try doing a leak down test the RIGHT WAY. Go buy/borrow a cylinder leak down tester!! With the correct tool you will only supply about 35-40 pounds of air into the cylinder. Up to 60% leakage is acceptable. Less than 40% is good. 100 pounds of air is most deffinately going to leak somewhere fairly quick, even in a good engine (rings would be the easiest place to leak). I do not see how your method of using a compression guage tells you much of anything. You need the right tool.
Old 10-24-2004, 10:50 PM
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Secondly, the 35-40 PSI with the correct tool is constant. You are wasting your time if you are using a stop watch to wait and see how long it takes to leak down to a certain #.
Old 10-27-2004, 10:53 PM
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Found the solution to the problem. Took my setup to a buddys 99 SS. Knew his blow by was minimal because of a rebuild and compression test. Hooked him up and it took his 13 seconds to drop to zero. Mine took 15 seconds so I know I'm OK . thanx God ! By the way CSTICK is absolutly right. It would have been much easier with the proper tools but I didn't have the right tools and my current expenditures have left my reserves at an all time loooow. got to save enough for a dyno tune and a trip to the track. Thanx for the imput.
Old 10-28-2004, 09:32 AM
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I just filled the cyl. to 90psi and turned the engine until both valves were closed.Theres a fine line between open/closed but after doing it u kinda know where your at when u hit tdc or just before it.

I had less than 3% in every hole both hot and cold.The only thing I wish I wouldve done is go forged pistons.The stockers rock (Hypers) until there warm but ring seal is awesome in my motor.
Old 10-28-2004, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzz007
Found the solution to the problem. Took my setup to a buddys 99 SS. Knew his blow by was minimal because of a rebuild and compression test. Hooked him up and it took his 13 seconds to drop to zero. Mine took 15 seconds so I know I'm OK . thanx God ! By the way CSTICK is absolutly right. It would have been much easier with the proper tools but I didn't have the right tools and my current expenditures have left my reserves at an all time loooow. got to save enough for a dyno tune and a trip to the track. Thanx for the imput.
I'm not sure about this particular tool but Autozone & Pepboys often loan out tools free of charge. You need to either leave your Credit card info or Driver's license (if just going outside for a quick test).

David



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