This is why its important to test fit parts
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've been exceptionally pleased with the quality of the Lunati 395 kit that I received. Everything has been checked and tested each stage of the way. Clearances are all nearly identical jorunal to journal, rod to rod.
I checked the rotation of the crank making sure it clears. Its pretty tight in there with that 4.125" stroke. but everything clears with plenty of room.
I installed my number 8 piston/rod assembly to make sure it would clear the reluctor ring (which it does) but noticed the rod would push out towards the front of the block near the bottom of the stroke by a few thousands (maybe .040" or so).
I kept checking and checking around the reluctor thinking, something is hitting the rod. It was late, and I couldn't figure it out. The next day after a nice breakfast and a clear head, I noticed the culprit...the rod bolt hitting the block near the bottom of the number seven cylinder.
I check other cylinders as well and noticed the same thing, so I will remove the crank, once again now that the block has been marked with a sharpie and grind away at it a bit.
The crank does rotate all the way around and it would have been easy to just slam this thing together, causing damage later, so I am glad that I did the check.
Hopefully someone who is about to attempt their own short block rebuild will find this thread in the archives and not skip out on checking all clearances/test fitting of parts as it is important.
David
I checked the rotation of the crank making sure it clears. Its pretty tight in there with that 4.125" stroke. but everything clears with plenty of room.
I installed my number 8 piston/rod assembly to make sure it would clear the reluctor ring (which it does) but noticed the rod would push out towards the front of the block near the bottom of the stroke by a few thousands (maybe .040" or so).
I kept checking and checking around the reluctor thinking, something is hitting the rod. It was late, and I couldn't figure it out. The next day after a nice breakfast and a clear head, I noticed the culprit...the rod bolt hitting the block near the bottom of the number seven cylinder.
I check other cylinders as well and noticed the same thing, so I will remove the crank, once again now that the block has been marked with a sharpie and grind away at it a bit.
The crank does rotate all the way around and it would have been easy to just slam this thing together, causing damage later, so I am glad that I did the check.
Hopefully someone who is about to attempt their own short block rebuild will find this thread in the archives and not skip out on checking all clearances/test fitting of parts as it is important.
David