qqwqeqwrqwqtq

IMO you should keep the cam you have. It will peak around 6,000-6,200. The cam will peak higher with a centrifugal blower than if it was N/A.

I don't see the point in running alot of duration and alot of overlap with a blower. Overlap in a forced induction application just makes the car less efficient at the same HP level.

Not an LS1, but as an example, my LT1 made 634rwhp with 12lbs of boost and a 214/222 cam and 42.5 injectors (at 58psi base press). 16lbs of boost would have brought me into the mid 700rwhp range.

Basically, I'm trying to say that an efficient supercharged setup doesn't need a big cam to make big HP.

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

I agree w/ INTMD8. Pick a mid size cam with fair lift, a nice sized split, and a 114+ LSA. You can go too big and lose power.

I may be completely wrong on my cam theory, but i don't think so. With more duration on an NA engine, you are allowing more air / fuel into the chamber and this helps feed the upper rpms so the engine doesn't run out of breath. NA engines are sucking air into chambers, then the air flow gains momemtum to assist in filling the chambers. With forced induction, you have all that boost pressure just waiting for the valves to open. You would want to make sure that the cylinders get completely full, but any more overlap than necessary would result in lost compression. Thats why you want a wider LSA and less overlap. you would need less intake duration due to the boost, but more exhaust to assist in getting the exhaust gasses out.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Well, I think Brian's current cam might be interesting. I'd prefer more lift since I assume his heads are pretty strong up to 580-600 lift or so...

But it seems to me that rpm makes horsepower. If it was as simple as runninga smaller cam then all the guys who race in NMRA and other racing groups would not be running 240/240 duration camshafts.

My 230's 115 cam is +2 Ragtop.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

What are your goals Brian?

How high does that stall go now off the transbrake?

For a streetcar that sounds fine for a drag car that's shifted at 6800 I'd get a 5000 stall or compromise down to a 4500.

BIGBOS

Off the brake I think close to 3200, not exactly sure on that...I don't want the car to be an all out drag car, I want to keep the current stall...cause the car will be driven on the street all the time, but I want it to make a LOT of power....

I wouldn't mind running 9's in my car as well, I'm sure it can be done if I ligthen it up, but I would be happy w/solid low 10's....

Say if I went with that 230/236 cam that they suggested, if I put that 4 degrees of advance it, would that knock down the shift points at all, or would I have to go lower on the dur/lift/lsa?

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BIGBOS:
<strong>
Say if I went with that 230/236 cam that they suggested, if I put that 4 degrees of advance it, would that knock down the shift points at all, or would I have to go lower on the dur/lift/lsa? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It would put you shifting about 6700-6800 rpms. Don't forget your extra CIs will eat up some of the cam. It would be comparable in idle and drivability to about a 224/230 in a 346.


Paul

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I"m not sure your 3500 will have the stall and shift extension for low 10's, one issue is how long it takes you to buzz to 6800 and the other issue is what does the motor drop to between shifts...

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Whether 3500 is enough stall depends upon where the boost kicks in. With a couple lbs of boost by 3500 he may be ok since the boost will create extra torque and stretch the stall out to 3800 or so.

If it was like my old powerdyne (nothing below 4k), 3500 stall isn't going to get the job done at the track. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> However for stoplight racing (no burnouts & 20+ lbs of air pressure) it may be ideal to launch just below boost and hit boost after you're rolling and have traction.

BIGBOS

The stall should pick up some w/the added power I'm going to be seeing...

So w/my current setup w/the 3500 stall its looking like I should probably stick w/the current cam I have, stock idle, lots of TQ, good enough top end, and 6200-6300 shift points..

I think thats what I'm going to do..

Now my next problem is getting all of this blower pully stuff figured out...