Need to Pull Oil Pan PLEASE HELP!!!!
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, FL
Need to Pull Oil Pan PLEASE HELP!!!! Well I did the cam swap got everything done. Then I had to tear it all apart to put a different O-ring in the new oil pump. To make a long story short I dropped a 10mm wrench into the oil pan. I know i am an idiot. But now i need to pull the oil pan. So far I have lowered the K member pretty far and I have about an inch of play in the pan. which bolts on the motor mount do i need to remove? the large bolt going through the mount or the 4 smaller ones that go aaround the mount and into the block? please help i have tried for hours to fish the damn wrench out of the pan with a pen magnet with no luck. thanks.
OK, PLEASE tell me you're supporting that engine somehow BEFORE messing around with dropping the k-member and engine mounts. Gravity isn't just a good idea, it's the LAW!
I think your best bet is still to try and get it out with an extendable magnet and an extendable mirror. Removing the oil pan requires you to support the engine, then remove the engine mount to cradle bolts on BOTH sides, the lower bolts on both shocks, the intermediate steering shaft bolt, disconnect the oil level sensor, remove the starter motor, the closeouts (plastic covers at the back of the oil pan), then loosen the cradle bolts a few turns. Once this is all done, you have to raise the engine slightly while lowering the cradle. THEN you can slide the oil pan out. That not only seems like a lot of work, but also seems damn dangerous. No, I have not done this, I just have the Helm manual.
I know you're frustrated at dropping that wrench, but keep at it with an extendable magnet and a mirror.
-Mike
I think your best bet is still to try and get it out with an extendable magnet and an extendable mirror. Removing the oil pan requires you to support the engine, then remove the engine mount to cradle bolts on BOTH sides, the lower bolts on both shocks, the intermediate steering shaft bolt, disconnect the oil level sensor, remove the starter motor, the closeouts (plastic covers at the back of the oil pan), then loosen the cradle bolts a few turns. Once this is all done, you have to raise the engine slightly while lowering the cradle. THEN you can slide the oil pan out. That not only seems like a lot of work, but also seems damn dangerous. No, I have not done this, I just have the Helm manual.
I know you're frustrated at dropping that wrench, but keep at it with an extendable magnet and a mirror.
-Mike
I had to remove my pan during my cam install b/c of a piece of wire found it's way in there. Long story. Anyways, if your wrench is magnetic, try getting a very strong magnet and using that on the bottom of the pan to try and move the wrench closer to the front where you could fish it out.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, FL
I do have the motor held up a jack and 2x4's the wrench fell into the bottom of the pan and turned (so its got each side pointing towards the wheels) the baffles in the pan and what r keeping it there. Does anyone have anypics of the inside of the pan so i can tell where the baffles are. I think i have enough space to use a magnet and get it from above the oil pan. I have about an inch of space since i lowered the K-member a bit. I am going to get a stronger pen magnet tomorow. I had to bend my pen magnet a bit to get it to connect with the wrench (which is at the bottom of the pan) and i got frustrated after a while and ended up bending it to hard and broke it. Pics of inside the pan would be greatly appreciated and help a whole lot. thanks for your help so far.
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
OK, PLEASE tell me you're supporting that engine somehow BEFORE messing around with dropping the k-member and engine mounts. Gravity isn't just a good idea, it's the LAW!
I think your best bet is still to try and get it out with an extendable magnet and an extendable mirror. Removing the oil pan requires you to support the engine, then remove the engine mount to cradle bolts on BOTH sides, the lower bolts on both shocks, the intermediate steering shaft bolt, disconnect the oil level sensor, remove the starter motor, the closeouts (plastic covers at the back of the oil pan), then loosen the cradle bolts a few turns. Once this is all done, you have to raise the engine slightly while lowering the cradle. THEN you can slide the oil pan out. That not only seems like a lot of work, but also seems damn dangerous. No, I have not done this, I just have the Helm manual.
I know you're frustrated at dropping that wrench, but keep at it with an extendable magnet and a mirror.
-Mike
I think your best bet is still to try and get it out with an extendable magnet and an extendable mirror. Removing the oil pan requires you to support the engine, then remove the engine mount to cradle bolts on BOTH sides, the lower bolts on both shocks, the intermediate steering shaft bolt, disconnect the oil level sensor, remove the starter motor, the closeouts (plastic covers at the back of the oil pan), then loosen the cradle bolts a few turns. Once this is all done, you have to raise the engine slightly while lowering the cradle. THEN you can slide the oil pan out. That not only seems like a lot of work, but also seems damn dangerous. No, I have not done this, I just have the Helm manual.
I know you're frustrated at dropping that wrench, but keep at it with an extendable magnet and a mirror.
-Mike
I disagree, setting the motor on a dropped kmember is fine, I've done it many times on many different fbodys and never had a problem.
You also don't have to disconnect any of the shock stuff, you can undo the 3 kmember bolts that hold it to the car and it will go down far enough to slide the oil pan right out with the motor suspended / jacked up.
And I think your right about the magnent thing, I'm pretty sure I could fish a wrench out if I dropped one, I've dropped sockets into my bell housing while bleeding the clutch before and fished them out.
I have a better Idea for you take the low oil level sensor out of the side of the pan and fish your magnet in there that way it is a big enough opening to get a 10mm wrench out for sure. Also if your pen magnet is whimpy I bought one at lowes in the tool dept. that is real strong it has a flexable aluminum shaft an it worked for me saved me a lot of trouble on more than one occation. Good luck!
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, FL
i tried the oil lever sensor socket with no luck. I will definately go to lowes and look for that flexible magnet. i think the wrench is just to big to fit through there anyways. and term i dropped the k member pretty far and it wont come out i heard you have to unbolt the motor mounts. any other ideas would help i will try again today for a while but i have to go to a wedding at 5 so i wont be able to work on it to long.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, FL
Just to update everyone I finally got it and it wasnt that difficult. To be honest I actually dropped 2 wrenches in the pan (dont ask how/why I dropped a second one). I had to use the pen magnet in the oil sensor socket and i was able to pull the head of the socket almost all the way out but the head on the other side was to big to fit through. I then held the wrench with my hand in the oil sensor socket and used one pen magnet from the front by the oil pump and moved the wrench and the magnet until they connected. then I had to pull the wrench directly to the right and use another pen magnet and connect with the big head of the wrench, get the other pen magnet to disconnect and slowely pulled it out. Sorry if it doesnt make much sense i am just to happy right now. I ended up buying 3 pen magnets and a little flexible claw thing. i only ended up using the 2 strongest pen magnets. those damn baffles in the pan really make it a pain in the but. I ended up getting them both out in about 1 1/2 hrs I was shocked I got them that fast. THANK GOD I DONT HAVE TO PULL THE PAN. THANKS TO EVERYONE.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
