Adjustable, non-adjustable, single roller, double roller, & so many different brands!
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9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Adjustable, non-adjustable, single roller, double roller, & so many different brands! I have a 2000 Camaro with 60k miles on it and all the mods listed below. I did a cam swap about a year and a half ago and reused the factory timing chain and oil pump. I am planning on swapping to the T-Rex cam really soon and need to decide on which timing chain or set to go with. There are so many brands and ways you can buy them and need help choosing the right one. Do I need a double or single roller, do I need it adjustable or not, what brand do I need...those are the questions I ask myself but have no answers to. Please help!
Fast Toys ram air kit
K&N air filter
Texas Speed & Performance air lid
ZO6 85mm MAF
SLP high flow bellow
Bauer Racing ported & polished throttle body
LS6 intake manifold
NGK TR-55s
Holley 9mm wires
Kooks 1 3/4" stainless steel long tube headers
Custom 3" true duals w/Dynomax bullets dumped
ASP underdrive crank pulley
Meziere electric water pump
MTI C2 cam (224/.581/112)
Manley valvetrain kit
AMW oil catch can
Billingsley ABS delete block
Century 200-4R w/all options
Yank PT4400
TCI flexplate
Hal shocks in a 4 corners w/R series in front
Spohn-LCAs, PHB, TA, SFCs, & 25mm rear sway bar all in chromoly
BMR-K-member, upper & lower a-arms, & relocation brackets
Airlift airbag
Prothane motor mounts
Energy Suspension tranmission mount
Denny's nitrous ready driveshaft
Strange 12 bolt w/4.10
Bogarts-15x10/ET Drags 15x4/165R
Wolfe chromoly 6 point weld-in roll bar
Weight reduction
Fast Toys ram air kit
K&N air filter
Texas Speed & Performance air lid
ZO6 85mm MAF
SLP high flow bellow
Bauer Racing ported & polished throttle body
LS6 intake manifold
NGK TR-55s
Holley 9mm wires
Kooks 1 3/4" stainless steel long tube headers
Custom 3" true duals w/Dynomax bullets dumped
ASP underdrive crank pulley
Meziere electric water pump
MTI C2 cam (224/.581/112)
Manley valvetrain kit
AMW oil catch can
Billingsley ABS delete block
Century 200-4R w/all options
Yank PT4400
TCI flexplate
Hal shocks in a 4 corners w/R series in front
Spohn-LCAs, PHB, TA, SFCs, & 25mm rear sway bar all in chromoly
BMR-K-member, upper & lower a-arms, & relocation brackets
Airlift airbag
Prothane motor mounts
Energy Suspension tranmission mount
Denny's nitrous ready driveshaft
Strange 12 bolt w/4.10
Bogarts-15x10/ET Drags 15x4/165R
Wolfe chromoly 6 point weld-in roll bar
Weight reduction
Last edited by BlackBeaSSt; Nov 11, 2004 at 11:17 AM.
If you keep the stock lifters, I'd keep the stock rockers. Almost all of the top engine builders on the site stick with the stock or the rebuilt stockers that won't allow the neddle bearings to fall out. If you were running the comp r lifters, then I would look into adjustables. With an aggressive cam like the T-rex, I'd get a double roller. The don't cost much more than a single, and it is good insurance incase anything ever happens. The rollmaster heat treated double roller is a pretty popular chain.
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9 Second Club NA
iTrader: (180)
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Houston, TX
Whats the difference between the heated treated and the non-heat treated? Also, the Torrington bearing, is that optional or does that come with the heat treated kit?
Do either one of you have the ASP underdrive crank pulley? Reason I ask is because I hear that there needs to be machining/modifications for a double roller timing set to fit with the ASP pulley. Is this true? Did either one of you have to do that if you have the ASP pulley? I have the newer version, the one thats SFI approved.
Do either one of you have the ASP underdrive crank pulley? Reason I ask is because I hear that there needs to be machining/modifications for a double roller timing set to fit with the ASP pulley. Is this true? Did either one of you have to do that if you have the ASP pulley? I have the newer version, the one thats SFI approved.
Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
Whats the difference between the heated treated and the non-heat treated? Also, the Torrington bearing, is that optional or does that come with the heat treated kit?
Do either one of you have the ASP underdrive crank pulley? Reason I ask is because I hear that there needs to be machining/modifications for a double roller timing set to fit with the ASP pulley. Is this true? Did either one of you have to do that if you have the ASP pulley? I have the newer version, the one thats SFI approved.
Do either one of you have the ASP underdrive crank pulley? Reason I ask is because I hear that there needs to be machining/modifications for a double roller timing set to fit with the ASP pulley. Is this true? Did either one of you have to do that if you have the ASP pulley? I have the newer version, the one thats SFI approved.
The new pulley(SFI), does not need to be machined. Mine went on w/o any issues.
Looks like you plan on swapping in a pretty tall cam. Therefore, you'll probably be degreeing-in the cam. To make it easier on yourself, get a Cloyes or CompCams hexadjust timing set. Infinite adjustment within the normal adjustment range. With the other 2-degree crankshaft keyway adjustables, you'll have to maybe press-on & pull-off the crankgear twice to position the crankgear in the nearest to optimum position.
Now, if you are not going to degree it in, get a non adjustable set and be done. Most of the cams that I have selected in the past allowed me to play with timing settings without worry of piston-to-valve clearance. I'd throw it in and test it out, then change the timing, then test it out, etc. etc. So I never really bothered with cam degreeing. The only time a cam was degreed was when the engine was pulled and there was plenty of room to spin the motor on a stand.
Now, if you are not going to degree it in, get a non adjustable set and be done. Most of the cams that I have selected in the past allowed me to play with timing settings without worry of piston-to-valve clearance. I'd throw it in and test it out, then change the timing, then test it out, etc. etc. So I never really bothered with cam degreeing. The only time a cam was degreed was when the engine was pulled and there was plenty of room to spin the motor on a stand.
Do you NEED an adjustable timing set? No, if your not going to change timing, but the Rollmaster which has been recommended to you is a quality set w/Torrington and is adjustable so you have the OPTION to advance or retard the cam if you want to and it comes at a reasonable price too. Just be aware that the double row chain requires shimming the oil pump which makes getting the pickup tube into the port a little difficult.
so stock lifters and rockers ok to keep with a bigger cam? what all has to be done to swap to a double roller. and upgrading the oil pump? what to get? just an LS6 pump?
The double chain requires that the pump be shimmed out 3mm. The shims come with the double chain. You must be cognizant of the orientation of the shim on the oil pump output port side or you will partially block the output port which negates the advantage of installing a ported/blueprinted pump in the first place. Don't make that mistake. You also will run into the difficulty of getting the pickup tube into the input port of the oil pump once you shim the pump 3mm forward while the tube does NOT move forward a like amount. I remove the oil pump cover and gears for this process which allows me to wriggle the pump around a little to get the pickup tube started into the mouth of the oil pump input port. Take extra care to be sure the oil pump pickup tube "O" ring is NOT damaged during this process. The shims are NOT in place at this time, but will be installed AFTER the oil pump pickup tube is seated fully HOME in the oil pump. The instructions for the Rollmaster are written in Australian (Ghetto Queens English) so good luck trying to get much helpful information reading them. Just be aware that if you decide to either advance OR retard your timing you only turn the timing sprocket a very minute distance from the stock position. If you've moved it any considerable amount you've made a BIG MISTAKE and you can expect to hear a "BANG" when you first start you motor up. The instructions don't make this process very clear so be sure you understand this procedure fully before you decide to either add or take away timing.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
iTrader: (180)
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From: Houston, TX
So if I buy a cam that is cam doctored to ensure that the cam was ground properly and if the cam was intended to be installed the way it is/straight up, is there any reason for an adjustable timing chain? I hear that you cant change the degree of the T-Rex cam without flycutting the pistons and I certainly dont wanna do that. The Rollmaster seems to be a popular chain as well as being priced right, but from what has been said, it seems difficult to install. Is this true?
Each situation is different so you can't generalize like that. P/V clearance will determine whether you can advance or retard you timing. If you don't have sufficient clearance you must go straight up, but if the clearance allows for it you can alter timing. Does a bigger cam increase lift to the point that P/V clearance is a problem? Did you install rockers that have a higher ratio than stock? These types of questions must be answered in order to figure out if you have the clearance needed to allow for timing adjustments.
