Truly solid motor mounting setups
Truly solid motor mounting setups Picture here for reference.
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/pr...0-1094_IMG.JPG
Anyone have a reason NOT to make a setup like this? In the picture, you can see an aluminum plate that covers the front of the motor, it has a hole cut out for the timing chain cover, the plate then has 4 bolts (2 per side) holding it solid to the car. I think this will improve the overall strength of the car, and put a dead stop to big cam shaking problems.
The main advantage I can see to this, is with TT, you don't want **** shaking all over, I am doing a TT setup, and I have a cam that shakes the motor around a little even with poly mounts.
Anyone have feedback on this?
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/pr...0-1094_IMG.JPG
Anyone have a reason NOT to make a setup like this? In the picture, you can see an aluminum plate that covers the front of the motor, it has a hole cut out for the timing chain cover, the plate then has 4 bolts (2 per side) holding it solid to the car. I think this will improve the overall strength of the car, and put a dead stop to big cam shaking problems.
The main advantage I can see to this, is with TT, you don't want **** shaking all over, I am doing a TT setup, and I have a cam that shakes the motor around a little even with poly mounts.
Anyone have feedback on this?
If you thought it shook the car before, you haven't seen anything like what it will with the plates anchoring it to the car. The motor mounts absorb alot of the vibrations from the engine. Those are just transferring them to the frame, which will make the whole car shake even worse. Sure it's good for an all-out drag car, but I wouldn't wanna drive it on the street. Well, I would, but I'd be leaving Bondo at every stoplight.
His motor looks a little different now..... but the reason for the solid mount is to relieve the stress that the 2 standard motor mounts put in one localized spot on the block.
This is the only way a stock aluminum block is going to survive 1200-1500 HP.
I'm running solid mounts (in the standard location) on my C5 and feel no added vibration
brad
This is the only way a stock aluminum block is going to survive 1200-1500 HP.
I'm running solid mounts (in the standard location) on my C5 and feel no added vibration
brad
Originally Posted by 422 ragtop
His motor looks a little different now..... but the reason for the solid mount is to relieve the stress that the 2 standard motor mounts put in one localized spot on the block.
This is the only way a stock aluminum block is going to survive 1200-1500 HP.
I'm running solid mounts (in the standard location) on my C5 and feel no added vibration
brad
This is the only way a stock aluminum block is going to survive 1200-1500 HP.
I'm running solid mounts (in the standard location) on my C5 and feel no added vibration
brad
Where did you purchase your solid mounts? I checked thunder and they don't carry them but Madman performance has the front brace that welds to the car, I have not found stock soild replacements yet though.
Madman said he made some but a few people complained about them and he quit making them? But he does have the pattern still, and a ls1 to mach up on, I may be getting a set from him.
Originally Posted by term
Where did you purchase your solid mounts? I checked thunder and they don't carry them but Madman performance has the front brace that welds to the car, I have not found stock soild replacements yet though.
Madman said he made some but a few people complained about them and he quit making them? But he does have the pattern still, and a ls1 to mach up on, I may be getting a set from him.
Madman said he made some but a few people complained about them and he quit making them? But he does have the pattern still, and a ls1 to mach up on, I may be getting a set from him.
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=756
Not sure if they make them for the F-bodies
Brad
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by 422 ragtop
Vette Brakes & Products,
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=756
Not sure if they make them for the F-bodies
Brad
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=756
Not sure if they make them for the F-bodies
Brad
It doesn't look that way, but the Madman ones look great, I just have to con him into making me a set.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by Patrolman808
If you thought it shook the car before, you haven't seen anything like what it will with the plates anchoring it to the car. The motor mounts absorb alot of the vibrations from the engine. Those are just transferring them to the frame, which will make the whole car shake even worse. Sure it's good for an all-out drag car, but I wouldn't wanna drive it on the street. Well, I would, but I'd be leaving Bondo at every stoplight.
depends on how well the engine is balanced......
my stock 346 with a TR224/224 112LSA set to idle at 950RPM and poly mounts shook the entire car (felt like you were sitting on a washer).....
my 388 all bore with a 244/249 112LSA set to idle (ie: almost die) at 800RPM and THOSE motor plates (I had Harlan make me a set) does not even make the car twitch (I can put the hood up and it does not even "twitch")......drops of water sit on the hood and don't roll/shake off.....
My STOCK 2004 5.3L Silverado has more shake than my Camaro..........the balance on stock engines SUCKS!
I personally will never use anything but motor plates in ANY car I ever build from now on. From the moment I pull the car in HOT, I can have the engine out in about a half a day (out the top) and most of that is pulling junk. The engine and tranny swing out in about 2 mins. Yes this is my daily driver.
Madman motorsports probably has one 422ragtop, if not it sounds like he can make them. I talked to him on the phone earlier and it seems like he has a pretty good shop.
The only thing he might not have is a car to mach it up on
The only thing he might not have is a car to mach it up on
CAMAROGUY- I take the motor and tany out in one hour and you are proud of half a day LOL! I guess that is pretty good though the top though you should try it thourgh the bottom a time or two works great and is very fast. I like motor plates I just amd not sure that my setup requires it yet. the motor does move more than I like though I will keep them in mind thanks for the pics of the mounts.
Originally Posted by Inspector12
CAMAROGUY- I take the motor and tany out in one hour and you are proud of half a day LOL! I guess that is pretty good though the top though you should try it thourgh the bottom a time or two works great and is very fast. I like motor plates I just amd not sure that my setup requires it yet. the motor does move more than I like though I will keep them in mind thanks for the pics of the mounts.
well yes, being able to drop the engine out with the K-member is faster but remember my engine isn't even connected to the K-member anymore (motor plates). It HAS to come out the top (though I guess with enough effort you could get it out the bottom). I would say a half a day is REALLY GOOD when you start with a HOT car (engine is running and up to temp) and then start pulling EVERYTHING out of the way (hood, front end, rad, headers, things off the block, etc...).
I love them. They make it possible to pull things like exhaust almost against the bottom of the car (no twist = no bang) and at the same time opens up a lot of room for oil lines, wires, etc. Then remember that you are removing all the stress from the sides of the block and supporting it on both ends which takes the "bending" force off the block (stock system is held by the two mounts on the block and then one "WAY" back on the tranny which makes the setup want to sag over time). It also takes all the load off the tranny tail shaft and bell housing bolts (support wise) and lets the tranny do it's job of holding together under power.
yep.....Harlan made me an aluminum front plate and a steel mid plate..........I just got finished driving the car (less than 5 mins ago) and I can't impress on people how smooth the car is (vibration) with plates....
