Long Bolt for pulley install is stuck...
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Did the bolt break off clean (straight). Did not know if you could center punch it and drill most of it out.
I have always used an impact to get the pulley on. You just have to know when it is enough. Turning the bolt another 120 degrees is 120 degrees. I do not care if you do it with a 4 foot cheater bar or impact. I only got about 100 or so degrees with my impact turned down a little.
I am going to throw this idea out as well... I think you said the bolt is stuck pretty far in right? I was kind of amazed how deep the whole is when I have changed pulleys. Anyways what I was thinking. With the new crank bolt, it does not even go 2" into the crank correct? This would be a last resort, but If I could save over a hundered dollars and the new crank bolt would not hit the broken one I might consider just leaving it.
I have always used an impact to get the pulley on. You just have to know when it is enough. Turning the bolt another 120 degrees is 120 degrees. I do not care if you do it with a 4 foot cheater bar or impact. I only got about 100 or so degrees with my impact turned down a little.
I am going to throw this idea out as well... I think you said the bolt is stuck pretty far in right? I was kind of amazed how deep the whole is when I have changed pulleys. Anyways what I was thinking. With the new crank bolt, it does not even go 2" into the crank correct? This would be a last resort, but If I could save over a hundered dollars and the new crank bolt would not hit the broken one I might consider just leaving it.
ya i would center punch it and get a good drill bit set good good good, start with a small hole then go a lil larger slowly. this will relieve the pressure on the threads, then i would get a long easy out and take the bolt out with some heat. just what i have done
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 749
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, Arizona
So can I get the bolt eloxed out without taking the crank out?
Not sure if anyone has a portable machine or not. My experience says you need to take the crank out, but check with a local auto repair place, head place, or machine shop. Good luck.
Not sure if anyone has a portable machine or not. My experience says you need to take the crank out, but check with a local auto repair place, head place, or machine shop. Good luck.
i would center punch it (make sure its DEAD center), then drill a hole, then a bigger hole, then a bigger hole, then put the biggest ease-out you can fit in it and try to remove it. hammer the ease-out in place(not too much, just so it bites) then spray some penetrating oil in the crank. you might want to use heat as well, just dont blow yourself up with the heat+penetrating oil.
we broke a bolt off in the crankshaft of my buddies mustang gt one time. broke about 12 ease-outs trying to remove it. we finally just drilled it with a huge bit untill it collapsed on itself . good luck
we broke a bolt off in the crankshaft of my buddies mustang gt one time. broke about 12 ease-outs trying to remove it. we finally just drilled it with a huge bit untill it collapsed on itself . good luck
When I installed an ASP pulley last month I accidentally broke the old crank bolt off in the snout!! 
Imediately I thought that I would have to do the easy-out thing and possible crankshaft removal. It turns out that when I looked at it directly with a flashlight i could see that the part of bolt that broke off was able to slightly wobble withthe use of a small screwdriver. It took 45 mins to get it to make 1 full turn, at that point I put the other broken piece of bolt in there and used it as a "key". Put in the new bolt and torqued, was driving that night!!! Hope it turns out this well for you too 
Imediately I thought that I would have to do the easy-out thing and possible crankshaft removal. It turns out that when I looked at it directly with a flashlight i could see that the part of bolt that broke off was able to slightly wobble withthe use of a small screwdriver. It took 45 mins to get it to make 1 full turn, at that point I put the other broken piece of bolt in there and used it as a "key". Put in the new bolt and torqued, was driving that night!!! Hope it turns out this well for you too 
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,604
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Just as a reminder for people in the future, the longer bolt is only for starting the pulley, not for seating it!. This will happen every time if you try to seat the pulley with a longer bolt....you're bottoming out the bolt before you are even finished seating the pulley because of the added length!
Anyway, a local had the same issue and a shop did have a fix for them. I beleive they may have drilled and tapped into the stuck bolt and then used a thinner bolt, but I'm honestly not sure. This is probably the worst thing that can happen to a cam install aside from dropping a lifter.
Anyway, a local had the same issue and a shop did have a fix for them. I beleive they may have drilled and tapped into the stuck bolt and then used a thinner bolt, but I'm honestly not sure. This is probably the worst thing that can happen to a cam install aside from dropping a lifter.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 865
Likes: 1
From: central TX
Originally Posted by jmX
Just as a reminder for people in the future, the longer bolt is only for starting the pulley, not for seating it!. This will happen every time if you try to seat the pulley with a longer bolt....you're bottoming out the bolt before you are even finished seating the pulley because of the added length!
Anyway, a local had the same issue and a shop did have a fix for them. I beleive they may have drilled and tapped into the stuck bolt and then used a thinner bolt, but I'm honestly not sure. This is probably the worst thing that can happen to a cam install aside from dropping a lifter.
Anyway, a local had the same issue and a shop did have a fix for them. I beleive they may have drilled and tapped into the stuck bolt and then used a thinner bolt, but I'm honestly not sure. This is probably the worst thing that can happen to a cam install aside from dropping a lifter.
This was me.Cost me about $200 at a local shop. They tried to drill out the broken bolt piece, but were unable to. They ended up tapping the crank snout and using a larger bolt... It's been fine so far...but I still worry about it...
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Figured I wouldn't start a new thread with this one already out there....
Help from anyone???
I am in the middle of a cam install now. I am putting the harmonic balancer back on (LS3). I bought an M16 threaded rod (~1 ft long) and threaded it into the crankshaft. I have an M16 nut and 2 big washers for pushing the balancer on.
I got the balancer most of the way on and then tried to remove the threaded rod (so I can go the rest of the way with the old crank bolt). Problem is... the threaded rod is stuck in the crankshaft. I guess the M16 rod stretched from the force of intalling the balancer (by hand). Any ideas for getting it out?
Also, does the balancer need to be rotationally aligned with the crankshaft? I didn't notice a keyway like the old 350's used to have... so I figured it didn't matter.
Help from anyone???
I am in the middle of a cam install now. I am putting the harmonic balancer back on (LS3). I bought an M16 threaded rod (~1 ft long) and threaded it into the crankshaft. I have an M16 nut and 2 big washers for pushing the balancer on.
I got the balancer most of the way on and then tried to remove the threaded rod (so I can go the rest of the way with the old crank bolt). Problem is... the threaded rod is stuck in the crankshaft. I guess the M16 rod stretched from the force of intalling the balancer (by hand). Any ideas for getting it out?
Also, does the balancer need to be rotationally aligned with the crankshaft? I didn't notice a keyway like the old 350's used to have... so I figured it didn't matter.
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