Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

You have to use an adjustable pushrod and set it to 0 lash.You were hanging the valve open which will still give you the wrong measurements you are looking for.

PDD-please just call me when you run into a question like this.I will save you alot of time when you are in the middle of doing the work.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

i bet i bent a valve. i heard some crunching sounds when cranking it over this is becoming a pain in my ***. so i put the soft springs in, then put the regular lifters in with the clay??? of course ill have to take the valves out first to see if i fucked them up.thanks for the offer don, i just might have to give u a ring

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I had no idea you could bend a valve cranking it over by hand. Ouch.

family sedan

iTrader: (3)

You most definitely can.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

thats alot of **** talk for you not to know anything about me ... chances are i have built more motors than you have, just so happens i have not been into a LS1 yet, big f*'n deal

are you telling me that the deck height is -.007? u read that in a book or see it in another post or what smarty pants?

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

oh, i get it now ... your post count dick is longer than mine ... yep, you got me there, that must mean your smarter

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

Stock LS1 pistons are .007 "out of the hole" so if you just put the head on with no gasket the piston will hit the head.
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Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

OK, so a -.007 deck height then?

Thing is that Im not used to seeing engines from the factory having the envelope pushed like these engines are. C/R approaching 11:1, 200cc heads, and now pistons coming out of the hole when normaly if I was gonna go through a motor I would have it decked to a zero deck height assuming they are in the hole from the factory. Hell, Im surprised they didnt put a dry sump system on them.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Pat, you must set it to Zero Lash.


Basically, what happened here is-

Put the solid lifters in.

Used the double springs.

Rather than preload the lifter like stock, it opened the valve instead.

This is where you need the adj. pushrod or rocker arm to set to zero lash.

With out zero lash, you will do exactly what happened.


The problem is that with the preload, the lifter will compress more as you rotote the motor over because there is no oil pressure to prevent the lifter from compressing, and your PTV getting bigger .

Previously, you had 135 thou of clearance. This is way more than what that setup should have. This is because the lifter was collapsing

pdd

iTrader: (3)

ok when i wake up tomorrow im gonna check the valves to see if i bent them. then ill put the soft springs in and set the rockers to zero lash according to ls1howto.com website and also arkay99 sent me some good instuctions to set zero lash. im gonna try the dial indicator way instead of the clay and see what i come up with. im sure ill **** it up again. just waiting for the next ******* problem

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Do you mind posting what Arkay99 sent you for informational purposes? Thanks.

And good luck man, I've been following your quest for the best for a month now, hope it all works out for ya!

pdd

iTrader: (3)

thanks bro. ok heres what arkay99 sent me:

Are the soft springs soft enough to squeeze in your bare hands? If so, here is what to do.
Remove the welded lifters and reinstall the regular lifters. Put the pair of soft springs on the number one cylinder. Put the gasket on and mount the head and just snug it down with a few bolts at light torque. Then crank the motor (by hand in the direction of run) until the lifters are on the cam base, on the back of the lobe. You may have to put a pushrod in and push the lifters down onto it as they like to stick up in the guides. Then mount your rockers on the heads with the pushrods in place but DON'T TIGHTEN them down. Just tighten them to 0 lash. Tighten until ther is no play. It's a little tricky because there is only about 5lbs. of spring pressure to play with. Once you have zero lash start crancking the engine by hand VERY slowly until the lifter starts up the lobe. When this starts happening keep cranking slowly and at the same time start pushing down on the rocker with your finger about 1/8" at a time and letting up. Somewhere about 2->4 degrees before the lifter tops out on the lobe you will start to contact the piston with the valve as you are pushing on it. When this happens put a dial indicator over the valve and right on the valve stem tip and try to get it lined up as close as you can in a straight line so there is no angular error as you push the valve with your finger. Set the indicator to .000". Now start cranking the motor again by hand in the direction of run and continue pushing and letting go of the valve when it contacts the piston. You will get to a point where the distance will be small and start ot get larger. Back up the engine and find the spot where there is the least amount of space. Re-zero your indicator with the valve at rest and then push the valve until it contacts the piston. Hold it there and read the indicator. The value you read will be your minimum p/v. This is much more accurate than reading a slice of clay. And it is more direct. When you are dealing with the tolerances in these motors I wouldn't use clay. I would use the minimum recommended clearance from TEA as they know what is best for their heads and valves. Also, if you need to cut the piston you will know by this measurement how much to cut it. If you measured .055" and the minimum is .090 then you can cut .050" and know you have .015" in the clear. Since you are doing it from just 0 lash and not a preload that is also the distance you will have with loaded lifters and springs. You may get a little more with the motor running but this will be the minimum p/v clearance and more is better.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Make sure you use a fully compressed head gasket.I just use an old one.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

ok. i did everything in arkay's instructions. set zero lash. spun the motor till i had the least amount of space and i still come up with 195thousnadths. what the hell am i doing wrong here. i put the stock lifters back in with the soft springs from comp that i can compress easily by hand. do you think the lifters are still getting compressed??? this is still with my fm11 228/230 cam

Mirek

I'm watching from the cheap seats too. My God this stuff can be frustrating.
Good luck PDD you have been busting your *** I hope you get the dyno/track numbers you are aiming for . I take it you did not bend a valve !

pdd

iTrader: (3)

no bent valves, i checked today

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

thats good to hear.i feel your pain man. just be patient,when it's all done you'll have a kick *** setup.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

I did mine yesterday with no problems. I used the test springs and clay along with the stock rockers. You can set the stock rockers for zero lash for checking purposes. My minimum clearence was .110", so when the lifter pre-loads it should gain another .020-.030. If it makes you feel better, I am using the same heads (milled .024) with a much larger cam and it barley nicked my clay piece. (.040) to be exact.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

great! im swappin that cam FM14

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

My pistons are .010" out of the hole and I have .150" valve reliefs. Don't forget about that. If I had flat tops, I would have made contact. My intake went .040 into the relief on the intake side and never even got close on the exaust. Intake spec'd out at 244@.050 with .612 lift + 3 degrees advance. I found that each degree more advance you go, you loose .017" intake valve clearence. The FM14 *should* clear your set-up, but I reccomend you check using the lifters you are going to run and the light test spring on the valve. It worked very easy for me and I knew my clearence in a few minutes.