First heads/cam buildup what will I need?
11-30-2004, 10:08 PM
#21
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the chains can be a pain but patience is needed and it will fit fine
arpstuds-------------->thunder racing
gm head set probbly not as cheap as you think
but any will do
arpstuds-------------->thunder racing
gm head set probbly not as cheap as you think
but any will do
11-30-2004, 10:18 PM
#22
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I've read that a single chain would be easier and strong enough what I'm shooting for. I want as simple as possible. I'm no mechanic, and I'm trying to keep it simple.
11-30-2004, 10:22 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
I've read that a single chain would be easier and strong enough what I'm shooting for. I want as simple as possible. I'm no mechanic, and I'm trying to keep it simple.
i cant think of who makes it but the one off the c5r motor is a single and be more than enough
11-30-2004, 10:50 PM
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11-30-2004, 10:58 PM
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*Smacks self in back of head DUH Thank you arctic for spelling that out for me. How about this one? A lot cheaper.
http://www.texas-speed.com/item_deta...?ProductID=319
http://www.texas-speed.com/item_deta...?ProductID=319
12-01-2004, 03:53 PM
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YOU DA MAN YUKON. These prices look GREAT!!!!
http://www.fastengineparts.com/sub_c...hp?mid=3&id=91
Everyone check that link. Those are the ARP Head studs for our cars right!?!?!?
http://www.fastengineparts.com/sub_c...hp?mid=3&id=91
Everyone check that link. Those are the ARP Head studs for our cars right!?!?!?
12-01-2004, 04:52 PM
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OK, let me help you out some....
~ 01-02 have revised oil pumps, yours will be fine, but you still have to take it off in order to get the crank sprockets, so your not saving time by NOT changing the oil pump, the LS6 pump bumps the psi up more on idle and about 75+ at WOT (at least that's what mine reads).
~ Double roller chains are NOT a pain to set up, the crank sprocket has multiple slots for adjustment, but if you want to use the factory settings, there is a dot on one of the slots, you can't screw it up (hope I'm making sense). IMO I recommend a double roller, added insurance, and they are not THAT much more then the single. The only fitment issues with the double roller is with the OLD STYLE ASP pullies, the newer styles will fit without a problem. The old styles will still work fine, you just need to machine the snout on the pulley in order for it to work.
~ Thunder Racing sells a complete head/cam swap kit with all the necessary gaskets and new Crank bolt, but no heads bolts!
~ Studs are just a threaded rod that uses a nut to fasten the heads down, they STAY in the block, so if you plan on removing the heads a lot, then studs are the way to go, they are stronger than bolts and most guys use them on FI or Nitrous, but they cost more
Hope I helped you out some, good luck
~ 01-02 have revised oil pumps, yours will be fine, but you still have to take it off in order to get the crank sprockets, so your not saving time by NOT changing the oil pump, the LS6 pump bumps the psi up more on idle and about 75+ at WOT (at least that's what mine reads).
~ Double roller chains are NOT a pain to set up, the crank sprocket has multiple slots for adjustment, but if you want to use the factory settings, there is a dot on one of the slots, you can't screw it up (hope I'm making sense). IMO I recommend a double roller, added insurance, and they are not THAT much more then the single. The only fitment issues with the double roller is with the OLD STYLE ASP pullies, the newer styles will fit without a problem. The old styles will still work fine, you just need to machine the snout on the pulley in order for it to work.
~ Thunder Racing sells a complete head/cam swap kit with all the necessary gaskets and new Crank bolt, but no heads bolts!
~ Studs are just a threaded rod that uses a nut to fasten the heads down, they STAY in the block, so if you plan on removing the heads a lot, then studs are the way to go, they are stronger than bolts and most guys use them on FI or Nitrous, but they cost more
Hope I helped you out some, good luck
Last edited by Hardtop00SS; 12-01-2004 at 05:48 PM.
12-01-2004, 05:46 PM
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the chain itself doesn't have to be shimmed, when you buy the chain, it comes with two shims that does between the block and the oil pump to make room for the extra "row". When you bolt everything up , the clearance between the chain and the oil pump is pretty tight, but it's fine.